Is there a kit available for fitting a thermo fan that anyone knows about? Have just bought an 07 model 550 and would like to fit a thermo fan as a precautionary mesaure. During the summer months here in Australia it can become quite hot and I would feel better about having the fan fitted for the slower trails.
fe550 thermo fan
- Thread starter ihaterocks
- Start date
Joined Dec 2005
1K Posts | 0+
australia
Thanks. I was on the Australian husaberg web site and they didn't have them listed. Will speak with the dealer on Monday about getting one. Thanks
HI
I currently have a thermo fan on order and have been told they are on back order and due in the first week of October
I would also recommend you change your coolant to a product called Engine Ice it is a high performance coolant which was recommended to me and I found it to almost stop the boiling issues I was having in the tight single trails I ride
Also a friend of mine (cafey18) runs a thermo on his 650 and finds it runs a lot which flattens his battery, he installed a separate switch and turns it on only when in the tight stuff.
Hope this helps
I currently have a thermo fan on order and have been told they are on back order and due in the first week of October
I would also recommend you change your coolant to a product called Engine Ice it is a high performance coolant which was recommended to me and I found it to almost stop the boiling issues I was having in the tight single trails I ride
Also a friend of mine (cafey18) runs a thermo on his 650 and finds it runs a lot which flattens his battery, he installed a separate switch and turns it on only when in the tight stuff.
Hope this helps
Hi,
we had several discussion about Engine Ice here on this site -
yes, it helps stops the boiling over,BUT it´s not taking away the heat,
it´s actually increasing your cylinder-temperature as the heat transfer is not good.
Engine is not boiling, but running hotter than before.
Best heat transfer delivers still destilled water,
but water starts to boil sooner than coolant.
If it´s not freezing in your area use destillet water and add some Red-line WaterWetter or Motul Mocool antifreeze.
I'd like to try the Motul as well. The local dirt bike shop only had 1 liter of it and I need a bit more, because of my bottle.
I have the KTM fan kit installed on my 2005 FE-550. Works great but it's kinda odd the way you have to open up the radiator fins for the plastic mounts. I currently have the fan hooked to a toggle switch since I don't have the radiator connection for the thermostat. I did order a thermostat that Le Frog recommended from E-Bay (Selco CA190-QCS) and I'll just epoxy it in place when it comes. Redline water wetter for me with 50% antifreeze. I don't have a problem with my battery since it is sitting on the shelf with my electric starter. :lol:
Celtic Dude: I am going to reinstall the starter and battery. One, because I lost enough weight now that I can reinvest some of that lost into an e-start and battery and two, because I have updated the bob weight following Ady's advice, plus rebuilt one starter out of two used SM-14 from eBay, hoping to get it to work (plus the magic of Sparks work on my stator).
As for the temp switch, I have not tested it yet on the trail (heck, I did not have a real ride since I went kablamo), but I don't see how it could not work. Might have to fidget with different placements.
Be careful with the epoxy, especially the 1 minute type.
As for the temp switch, I have not tested it yet on the trail (heck, I did not have a real ride since I went kablamo), but I don't see how it could not work. Might have to fidget with different placements.
Be careful with the epoxy, especially the 1 minute type.
RE: Thermo fan fit
An interesting point you bring up about the coolant. Was something I had not thought too much about. probably stick with the manufacturer recommendations to begin with. You blokes who have disconected your starter motors and batteries need your head read. I mean these are known to be the lightest enduro weapons with a headlight. I dont think I could honestly live without the e start on some of the snotty **** we ride. Thanks for the advice, has helped greatly.
An interesting point you bring up about the coolant. Was something I had not thought too much about. probably stick with the manufacturer recommendations to begin with. You blokes who have disconected your starter motors and batteries need your head read. I mean these are known to be the lightest enduro weapons with a headlight. I dont think I could honestly live without the e start on some of the snotty **** we ride. Thanks for the advice, has helped greatly.
CelticDude said:
CelticDude,
Today I visited my dealer and he told me that on my 05 no thermostat connection is possible. You're using the fan with a switch instead of the thermostat. Does this work? And are your cooling problems solved now?
My bike's water boiles often on single tracks (system is correctly bleeded). I'am looking for a solution, this could be your solution: a switch and a fan.
I've heard that reasing the amount of feul also keeps the engine temp down, has anybody got any experience with it?
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark,
Yes, I'm currently using a simple toggle switch to turn the fan on. It works great. Next I am going to epoxy a thermal switch to the radiator that LeFrog recommended and put it in parallel with the switch so that it will turn on if the switch is in the off position.
Installing the fan is a problem with the 05 FE-550 because there is not enough clearance behind the fuel tank. I have a 4 gallon Clarke tank installed which has plenty of clearance. :lol:
Yes, I'm currently using a simple toggle switch to turn the fan on. It works great.
Next I am going to epoxy a thermal switch to the radiator that LeFrog recommended and put it in parallel with the switch so that it will turn on if the switch is in the off position.Installing the fan is a problem with the 05 FE-550 because there is not enough clearance behind the fuel tank. I have a 4 gallon Clarke tank installed which has plenty of clearance. :lol:
Attachments
I have read about the same setup with the Selco temp switches both on KTMTalk and TT. Each time the rider was happy with the switch.
I think if you do a search on the keyword "selco" you'll find these posts.
About were to epoxy: I guess the top is the best, as it is the hottest.
I think if you do a search on the keyword "selco" you'll find these posts.
About were to epoxy: I guess the top is the best, as it is the hottest.
Ok, thanks for the replies. Changing the tank and the fitting problems are in my opinion not worth it at this time of speaking. Strange that Husaberg has no "easy" solution for the cooling problem.
Anyway thanks,
regards Mark
Anyway thanks,
regards Mark
Hi,
I have ordered a fan kit for my 06 550 and after waiting a long time it could be delievered.
The the close temp is 85 °C (185°F) and the open temp 80°C (176°F)
(origninal switch with screw thread to fit in the radiator)
A guy in the german forum says he uses a termostatic swith with 112 °C (233°F) because with the fan is otherwise permantly running and the battery gets flat.
comparison with the Selco CA190-QCS i found at ebay :
Close temperature @190 +/-7
Open temperature @160F +/-10
(are the temps not interchanged ?)
The boiling temp. of a water-glycol mix with 40 % glycol is round about 106°C (223°F)
No with the higher pressure in the coolant system the boiling temp gets higher, but is 233°F not to hot?!
Please all you fan users tell me your experiences!
Is a added switch (wich I have seen on some bikes) neccessary?
What is the reason? To avoid to long fan running times by lower temps?
The fan kitis not realy cheap, and have I now to tinker with cables, switch and soldering iron???
regards,
husa98
I have ordered a fan kit for my 06 550 and after waiting a long time it could be delievered.
The the close temp is 85 °C (185°F) and the open temp 80°C (176°F)
(origninal switch with screw thread to fit in the radiator)
A guy in the german forum says he uses a termostatic swith with 112 °C (233°F) because with the fan is otherwise permantly running and the battery gets flat.
comparison with the Selco CA190-QCS i found at ebay :
Close temperature @190 +/-7
Open temperature @160F +/-10
(are the temps not interchanged ?)
The boiling temp. of a water-glycol mix with 40 % glycol is round about 106°C (223°F)
No with the higher pressure in the coolant system the boiling temp gets higher, but is 233°F not to hot?!
Please all you fan users tell me your experiences!
Is a added switch (wich I have seen on some bikes) neccessary?
What is the reason? To avoid to long fan running times by lower temps?
The fan kitis not realy cheap, and have I now to tinker with cables, switch and soldering iron???
regards,
husa98
Hi Husa98,
denke du hast open/close temp. miteinander verwechselt, bei "original",mhh?
Ich, bzw. mein Händler hat mir einen Zusatzschalter verbaut(Motorstopschalter) --> damit kann ich nachlaufen des Lüfters verhindern.
Kann dir so einen Schalter nur empfehlen.Montage ist einfach.
Lüfter läuft oft, aber besser er läuft, als Motor stirbt den Hitzetod.
Für den Sommer(wenns warm wird) würd ich dir raten, den Kühlerkreislauf auf MX zu tauschen,
kostet nicht die Welt (thermostat fehlt)
Grüße aus Wien
denke du hast open/close temp. miteinander verwechselt, bei "original",mhh?
Ich, bzw. mein Händler hat mir einen Zusatzschalter verbaut(Motorstopschalter) --> damit kann ich nachlaufen des Lüfters verhindern.
Kann dir so einen Schalter nur empfehlen.Montage ist einfach.
Lüfter läuft oft, aber besser er läuft, als Motor stirbt den Hitzetod.
Für den Sommer(wenns warm wird) würd ich dir raten, den Kühlerkreislauf auf MX zu tauschen,
kostet nicht die Welt (thermostat fehlt)
Grüße aus Wien
The question is do you feel you really need the capacity of the stock fan? It really moves a lot of air. I put on a 120mm computer case fan. Not very much air flow, but low current draw. These fans are not very durable, but are cheap to buy. I use the 85C thermoswitch. The fan comes on a minute after I enter tight trails and goes off a minute after I get back in the open. I only want it there to add a bit of air flow for those times I get hung up and have to work the bike a lot to get free.
You are on the right track with using a higher thermoswitch rating, although I'd probably go with 100C. I think a close differential would be best since you are only trying to remove excess heat, not cool the engine right down. I think the 160F drop out temperature is too low and your fan will run a long time. This will be hard on the battery. I would rather have it cycle more frequently.
A thermoswitch is a reliable way to have the fan turn on at the right time. You could mount a defeat switch to avoid excessive operation, but you might forget to switch it back and then the fan would not come on at all.
Best advise I have is to use a higher rating like 100C with an opening temperature of 95C (or the closest you can find). The switch CLOSES when it reaches the upper temperature and OPENS when it reaches the lower temperature.
You are on the right track with using a higher thermoswitch rating, although I'd probably go with 100C. I think a close differential would be best since you are only trying to remove excess heat, not cool the engine right down. I think the 160F drop out temperature is too low and your fan will run a long time. This will be hard on the battery. I would rather have it cycle more frequently.
A thermoswitch is a reliable way to have the fan turn on at the right time. You could mount a defeat switch to avoid excessive operation, but you might forget to switch it back and then the fan would not come on at all.
Best advise I have is to use a higher rating like 100C with an opening temperature of 95C (or the closest you can find). The switch CLOSES when it reaches the upper temperature and OPENS when it reaches the lower temperature.
Gokai134 said:
Servus,
sorry, I have changed the temps.
Does the water thermostat reduce the coolant capacity?
(The older bikes haven´t one. )
What a shame: Either we have to mount a switch an have to think in race to use the switch in right wanner or we have to buy another themo switch with higher temps.
Hi Guys, I have fitted a fan and used the Yamaha thermo switch from a wrecker $10 105 deg C cut in 102Deg C cut out, and used a Honda CRF450 X fan kit, Works fine.
If you find your battery going flat simply tap off the headlight feed, use a 5A fuse, feed this to a 8A bridge rectifier with say a 2200uF capacitor and the fan will not use battery power. If you need power to the fan when you switch off to get it to an acceptable temp before ripping out again (in tight stuff and waiting for mates) you can alternatively drop a change over relay that changes from lighting power to battery power on the opposite contact of the changeover relay. That way it will run until the thermo cuts out (after turning off the motor) but only when the motor is off preventing a load on the battery / charging circuit when the bike is running.
Use the feed after the capacitor to power the relays coil, when no voltage present (motor off) battery will take the slack for a short period but not lower battery to a state where it will not restart on battery.
Make sense..... (if needed I can do a circuit diagram and parts list for everyone, please advise)
Simple!
B/rgds
Neil.
If you find your battery going flat simply tap off the headlight feed, use a 5A fuse, feed this to a 8A bridge rectifier with say a 2200uF capacitor and the fan will not use battery power. If you need power to the fan when you switch off to get it to an acceptable temp before ripping out again (in tight stuff and waiting for mates) you can alternatively drop a change over relay that changes from lighting power to battery power on the opposite contact of the changeover relay. That way it will run until the thermo cuts out (after turning off the motor) but only when the motor is off preventing a load on the battery / charging circuit when the bike is running.
Use the feed after the capacitor to power the relays coil, when no voltage present (motor off) battery will take the slack for a short period but not lower battery to a state where it will not restart on battery.
Make sense..... (if needed I can do a circuit diagram and parts list for everyone, please advise)
Simple!
B/rgds
Neil.
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