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FE550 Fork Questions

Joined Sep 2014
84 Posts | 31+
Vancouver, Canada
This bike is fairly new to me, I've only made it out on a handful of rides before winter. The handling seemed OK but thought I should dump the fork oil before bothering to dicker with comp/rebound settings.

I just changed the oil in the first leg and compared the action to the other one, no big difference. I was just compressing each leg against the garage floor.

What I find strange is on either leg I can't feel any difference between the fully dampened and least dampened positions (rebound and compression). I know that "pushing against the garage floor" is a lot different that riding the bike, but I still thought fully dampened would feel different (especially rebound). Is that normal?

I was careful to check the rebound adjuster tube and it was able to spring up and down, so I don't think that is stuck.

The other weird thing I found was one leg had 18 clicks of compression adjustment and the other had 34-35. Could that mean something is blocking the compression valve on one side?

Thanks for the help. I don't have much experience suspension components yet.

-Kent (2005 FE550)
 
eacvh leg should have taken around 500ML and on full rebound it should work really slowly.

maybe you didn't put 500ML in?

regards

Taffy
 
I got about 650-700ml out of it and put about the same back in. I suctioned some out to set the level (110mm) after.

When I assembled the rebound tube, the tube just slid down into the cartrdige. Is there a technique for making sure it's seated on the needle properly?

I'm wondering if it's not sitting properly on the needle down there. It moves up and down, but I wonder if it's acutally pushing the needle off to the side instead of down into the valve. Is that possible?
 
i don't know mate....

each leg is good for 500 and no more. 110mm air gap is too small. also you should work the rod up and down until the thing works both ways in 'treacle'.

Taffy
 
I got the 110mm from the Owners manual. What do you recommend?

bergforks-0.jpg


Dropping the oil height will bring it closer to 500ml, but I might have also got some in between the inner and outer fork tubes. I'll re-measure.

I wouldn't think that would account for the lack of dampening adjustment though, I'll probably need to open it up and see what that needle is doing.

When you say "treacle", do you mean smooth resistance along the stroke, no air pockets (internets search led me to baking ingredients:p)? Thanks for the help, Taffy.
 
when you fill the leg you are meant to work the rod up and down. you start by pushing air. keep adding oil and fill it over the rod, the top of the chrome fork everything.

when the rod is treacle then you know there's no air.

if you had 120mm air gap you would only be removing 15cc of oil.

how you got to 700ml/cc is beyond me.

110mm air gap is like perfection and bikes aren't perfect. 110ml is the lowest (numbers) i ever attempted. it is perfection. it means the MV, BV are in perfect harmony and the spring is either weak or perfect too.

quite why the factory have said that is strange? i'd have said 120mm was fine.

regards

Taffy
 
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in case you didn't know kent there are 2 ways to fill the tubes and measure the oil level

one is the "dump method" and one is the "non dump" both give you different results for the same oil volume due to the oil trapped between the inner and outer for legs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glG3gUjxjEU

the compression adjuster with not enough clicks needs to come out so you can check if the brass needle is seating properly or if there is some crap stopping it

if it is seating properly it means the adjuster is getting stuck before it backs all the way out which isn't really a problem as long as you don't need more than 18 clicks

you can flip the bike on its side, prop the front wheel up in the air with a bike stand compress the forks with a strap and remove the compression adjuster without doing anything else

if the wheel is high enough the oil stays in
 
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I did as in the bushies youtube link said and I got around 700ml into each fork, I set the air gap at around 90mm to avoid my tire puncturing the header pipe and to be stiffer for the supermotos.

Yet to do any empirical testings.
 
I just did fork oil and seal service last weekend on my '06 FE550 and followed Jeff Slaven's how-to video linked above. I also referenced the Owners Doc for others have much more experience with these bikes than I suggested the relative fork oil air gap measurement of 110mm air gap listed in the actual HBG Owners Manual might not be best.

I'd have to check my notes but I believe I ended up with a 122mm air gap and somewhere around 671 ml of 5wt. fork oil after all the forcing of the oil into the chambers, bubble freeness and excess oil extracted. And FWIW all my clickers, click.

My only complaint is the relatively small circumference of the black plastic rebound adjuster wasn't meant for someone with bear paws as hand to adjust, jeezus. Amazingly they upsized those adjusters on the closed chamber forks. Come oooonnnn WP get in the game!
 
I followed Slaven’s video for filling the forks, BUT, I neglected to slide the outer tube all the way up before final measurement. I had oil between the inner and outer fork tubes, so yeah the level was too high. I sucked it down to 120mm. Mystery solved.

FWIW, the right leg was filled to 90mm (from the previous owner) and I dumped out 650ml.
dscn0432-0.jpg


I flushed out the forks with some kerosene and the compression adjuster free’d up a bit. I’m able to get 34 clicks out of it but I think I’ll pull it out because there’s obviously some gunk in there that was keeping it from closing. It’s still a little stiff. The forks are still off so it should be pretty easy I suppose.

Something else I found when I opened up the other leg was the preload shims/washers aren’t the same. One side has 15mm (10+5mm) and the other has 14mm (10+2.5+1.5mm). For a hack rider like me i don’t think that would make any noticeable difference though. With only 350 hours on the bike I can’t believe this bike isn’t in showroom condition! What is the factory configuration for spacers? TFTH guys.
dscn0442-0.jpg
 
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nice pictures!

just FWIW with preload generally if you need more than 6mm preload (spring free length minus installed length) you will benefit from changing to stiffer springs

I try to have about 3mm preload, zero is nicest but it takes some trickery to get the rebound to work properly for small bumps

the air gap depends on so many subjective variables its impossible to say where any one person will end up.
 
I pulled the compression holder and cleaned it out with some kerosene and compressed air. Clicks nicely now.

Thanks for the tip on compressing the fork to get it in/out, I probably would have struggled with that for a while otherwise.

I'm not going to sweat the preload right now. It might not be optimal (I'm not even sure how big the guy who set it up was) but it's good enough for me and I can worry about that later.

Thanks for humouring me while I turned a 2 hour oil change into a several day suspension lesson!

-Kent
 
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