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FE550 doesn't charge, stumbles off idle when hot

Joined Apr 2016
32 Posts | 0+
BC
Long story short, my 08 FE550 doesn't seem to be charging the battery when it's been running for a while. It also doesn't seem to be getting a good spark a low revs.

Long story long, I've had this bike for a year or so and it all seemed fine in the beginning. I was running it around town a little, but mostly at supermoto track events (short sessions and high RPM). On particularly hot days, I would notice that it stumbled a little off-idle with a whack of throttle. I modified the accel pump in the carb, thinking it was the notorious lean bog, but that didn't help at all.

I then started riding the bike in the woods on technical single track. Riding it at slow speeds revealed that, when the bike was good and hot, it would stall out if the throttle was opened very quickly from idle. Very frustrating when trying to get over a log! Not a problem at the start of the ride, though.

I discovered that turning the idle screw all the way in (full lean) would help with the bog, but then of course it would run like garbage in the mid-range. This leads me to believe that the spark is weak at low RPMs.

Finally, during my last ride (thankfully near the end of the ride), my battery stopped charging. This really wasn't fun, considering the kick start is jammed up on this bike and the starter is my only hope aside from a bump-start.

As you can probably gather, I think the bog and the charging issue are related. I think I'm getting poor current out of the electrics when they get hot.

I tested the electrics today as per the service manual. I got 12.3V from the battery (engine off) and a consistent 12.5V at the battery with the engine running.

With the caveat that my multimeter is very cheap, testing current through the main fuse I got:
-1.3A unstressed at idle (the manual calls for 1.5+/-0.2, but I think they accidentally omitted the negative sign)
-0.9A stressed idle (manual calls for -1.0+/-0.2)
+0.4A at higher revs (manual calls for 0.8+/-0.2)

Testing stator resistance (same crappy multimeter, engine warm), I got:
red-grn wires: 115ohm (manual: 100+/-20)
blk/red-red/whi: 17ohm (manual: 15+/-3)
ylw-ground: 1.4ohm (manual: 0.65+/-0.15)
ylw-whi: 1.0ohm (manual: 0.16+/-0.03)

Now, the last two numbers are well out of spec, but I suspect that may have more to do with my multimeter and the warm engine than an actual fault, but I'm not really sure about that. I'll test again tomorrow (cold) to see if temperature makes a difference. I also think that since the stumbling problem only occurs after a long, hot ride, I may not see any multimeter faults with the bike only warm or cold.

I guess I'm just not sure where to go from here. Perhaps I'll have to pop off the stator and check for desoldered or baked connections. Anyone have any other ideas? Any help would be much appreciated, as I'm feeling a bit lost and I don't want to just start throwing parts at it without knowing more about what is wrong.
 
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Hi 12,5 v will not charge the battery . But should not affect the spark as it's another circuit

I had the same thought, but lo and behold, the manual calls for 13V +/-0.5. It also calls for the measurement to be taken immediately after starting, which I did.
 
Some electrical Problems can be traced to bad connections. Check any connection also any crimp connections. May not be the problem but won't cost you anything but time.
 
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FWIW

Check for poor grounds or shorted grounds. Ranerio might be onto something as your getting some voltage change from static to running. Do a load test on the battery as a faulted battery can cause running issues and stumbling and also will not charge. The voltage is low no matter what your manual says. I have 14v +/-1 out of the regulator in my service manual. A static 12v battery should be 12.6 and running around 13.1 or above when charging. Might have a shorted cell in the battery?
Also with the stator being out of spec this could be the main reason the charging output is low? Check voltage at regulator, I think it is red white and other is brown and test between look for anything above 13v.
 
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OH and where are you in BC? We have a few here who can help if required
 
i had an '04 that had the lights hooked up to work off the battery with a 50w quartz halogen. the charging system was overtaxed and would not charge the bat over a period of time. solved it by hooking up the lights to the alternator after the voltage regulator. ran fine on a.c.
 
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Thanks, gentlemen. I'll check for bad connections, bad grounds, and a headlight wired to DC.

The battery should be good, however. Something I omitted from the long story is that I replaced the battery after the bike sat for a few weeks and wouldn't start, then it was on the subsequent ride that I discovered that the battery wasn't charging.

I'm in Victoria, BC. Being able to ride year-round while living in Canada is bloody wonderful.
 
A quick update: I still haven't found the time to go through the connections and grounds, but I did find out that it was the resistance in my multimeter wires that was causing the high readings for stator resistance. Silly me, I forgot that when reading low resistance figures, you had to subtract the resistance you get by touching your multimeter probes together with no other load.
 
Hello folks. I don't mean to hijack the thread but I'm having a problem with my 2008 FE550 not charging.

Bike starts no problem off the kickstart, but will not start off elec start (brand new battery). I put a multimeter on the white wire and yellow wire coming out of the stator (that go to the regulator mounted on the frame) and it's showing only 2v AC, which seems hard to believe. I've heard that it should be around 25v AC.

Multimeter on the battery terminals with engine off is 12v DC exactly. Rises to 12.6v DC with the engine running.

Stator looks perfect on visual inspection. I've tried to find factory specification for stator resistance and output but can't find anything solid. Could somebody tell me these figures so I can compare to what I'm getting?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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