Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
finished the rebuild tonight and will i hope race the bike tomorrow.
below are some things i'm sticking in the owners doc. anything you care to comment on or add-feel free to do so...
When trying to find neutral, remember the selector drum is 5 up, neutral and then first-now you can fit the 'star'
It may pay to have the spigot and crankcase machined separately due to movement.
The water 'O' ring in the left cover overlaps with the cover gasket. Cut the cover gasket around the 'O' ring.
If struggling with the woodruffe key infront of the lower timing chain sprocket-just grind the end off slightly. Tightening the nut on the countershaft will draw the shaft right through eventually.
When fitting new mains, tape the old ones as a pair and lay on the workshop floor under the outside of the crankcase half. You'll also need a 10mm piece of wood for good support at the back end of the case-get this right before the crankcase comes out of the cooker. be ready!
The right hand main bearing will give the impression of not being in against the shoulder of the case-but it is. The left-side main looks good though. Why not check how they look visually BEFORE knocking the old ones out?
The little end bush can be delivered loose-order another and another until one arrives that's 'nice'.
You'll need 1200ML of oil to re-fill from a complete rebuild.
Fit crank seal after you're happy that the cases are now closed-for good!
Try and retry to get the single upper dot between the two lower dots as per manual. It's worth pursuing.
The reason the clutch basket won't drop in is because the plastic oil pump gear needs a 'flick around'!
When fitting the gearbox in the L/H case, this is the order; input shaft half in at an angle, output shaft in, press both down and in. Selector forks fitted, selector rods through forks but not located in cases but separate them as wide as they'll go apart from each other. Fit hollow washers on forks, fit the selector drum, locate the forks into the selector drum, push home the fork selector rods into their recess.
When working in the left side, fit the reed valve first so that anything dropped won't go through and in to the centre cases.
Lightly tighten the case screws and then complete after having torqued the head down. this helps with the spigot fitment.
If the camchain link isn't where you want it, turn the engine over 3/4 times until it is. It moves on a bit everytime.
Rocker end float is .15mm (.006") (simon). If you don't have this, fit the rocker screws through and tap the black end caps inward till you do!
If you don't have a ring compressor to help fit the piston in the spigot; turn all ring gaps to face the spigot cutaway side of the piston. Then as you feed the rings in, use the flat face of a flat-bladed screwdriver to 'press down' on the ring gaps whilst wobbling the spigot.
To check for big-end play; fit a feeler gauge down the side of the piston and THEN try pull/pushing the con rod.
Stator wiring is as follows; yellow into a double red, second yellow into a red/white, light blue into a brown, black into black and green into green.
Fit swing arm pivot pin first THEN fit the engine mounting plates, THEN engine bolts. Tighten SAPP first.
Wrecked the gearbox seal? In a panic? Fit the old countershaft bearing and then an 'O' ring as a get-you-out-of-trouble fix.
Don't over hone the barrel. They are prone to ripples and the Nikasil/Gilnasil wearing off.
If the piston shows signs of scoring on the thrust faces-don't touch-as this would drastically reduce the diameter of the piston.
as you can read from the last few comments, i've had some real luck. the motor engineers have my gearbox output oilseal after they must have removed it to skim the block. i didn't get it back and i only discovered it this saturday afternoon at 3pm. i gave up thinking of racing after i'd tried all the dealers.
i went out to the garage and started kicking the dog! as you do. checked my old ducati seals and then just happened to pick up the old countershaft bearing, looked at it and offered it to the gearbox output. it slipped on and in the case perfectly with a little tap o the hammer. fitted an 'o' ring afterwards and then the sprocket. bloody hell lads-i'm in business!
anyway, other than the above it went well!
regards
Taffy
below are some things i'm sticking in the owners doc. anything you care to comment on or add-feel free to do so...
When trying to find neutral, remember the selector drum is 5 up, neutral and then first-now you can fit the 'star'
It may pay to have the spigot and crankcase machined separately due to movement.
The water 'O' ring in the left cover overlaps with the cover gasket. Cut the cover gasket around the 'O' ring.
If struggling with the woodruffe key infront of the lower timing chain sprocket-just grind the end off slightly. Tightening the nut on the countershaft will draw the shaft right through eventually.
When fitting new mains, tape the old ones as a pair and lay on the workshop floor under the outside of the crankcase half. You'll also need a 10mm piece of wood for good support at the back end of the case-get this right before the crankcase comes out of the cooker. be ready!
The right hand main bearing will give the impression of not being in against the shoulder of the case-but it is. The left-side main looks good though. Why not check how they look visually BEFORE knocking the old ones out?
The little end bush can be delivered loose-order another and another until one arrives that's 'nice'.
You'll need 1200ML of oil to re-fill from a complete rebuild.
Fit crank seal after you're happy that the cases are now closed-for good!
Try and retry to get the single upper dot between the two lower dots as per manual. It's worth pursuing.
The reason the clutch basket won't drop in is because the plastic oil pump gear needs a 'flick around'!
When fitting the gearbox in the L/H case, this is the order; input shaft half in at an angle, output shaft in, press both down and in. Selector forks fitted, selector rods through forks but not located in cases but separate them as wide as they'll go apart from each other. Fit hollow washers on forks, fit the selector drum, locate the forks into the selector drum, push home the fork selector rods into their recess.
When working in the left side, fit the reed valve first so that anything dropped won't go through and in to the centre cases.
Lightly tighten the case screws and then complete after having torqued the head down. this helps with the spigot fitment.
If the camchain link isn't where you want it, turn the engine over 3/4 times until it is. It moves on a bit everytime.
Rocker end float is .15mm (.006") (simon). If you don't have this, fit the rocker screws through and tap the black end caps inward till you do!
If you don't have a ring compressor to help fit the piston in the spigot; turn all ring gaps to face the spigot cutaway side of the piston. Then as you feed the rings in, use the flat face of a flat-bladed screwdriver to 'press down' on the ring gaps whilst wobbling the spigot.
To check for big-end play; fit a feeler gauge down the side of the piston and THEN try pull/pushing the con rod.
Stator wiring is as follows; yellow into a double red, second yellow into a red/white, light blue into a brown, black into black and green into green.
Fit swing arm pivot pin first THEN fit the engine mounting plates, THEN engine bolts. Tighten SAPP first.
Wrecked the gearbox seal? In a panic? Fit the old countershaft bearing and then an 'O' ring as a get-you-out-of-trouble fix.
Don't over hone the barrel. They are prone to ripples and the Nikasil/Gilnasil wearing off.
If the piston shows signs of scoring on the thrust faces-don't touch-as this would drastically reduce the diameter of the piston.
as you can read from the last few comments, i've had some real luck. the motor engineers have my gearbox output oilseal after they must have removed it to skim the block. i didn't get it back and i only discovered it this saturday afternoon at 3pm. i gave up thinking of racing after i'd tried all the dealers.
i went out to the garage and started kicking the dog! as you do. checked my old ducati seals and then just happened to pick up the old countershaft bearing, looked at it and offered it to the gearbox output. it slipped on and in the case perfectly with a little tap o the hammer. fitted an 'o' ring afterwards and then the sprocket. bloody hell lads-i'm in business!
anyway, other than the above it went well!
regards
Taffy
