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FE400 '00 E-starter problems

Joined Jun 2008
12 Posts | 0+
Finland
Hi

I have a FE400 '00, still with original SEM stator and dellorto carburetor. Starts with kickstarter at first or 2nd kick, no matter is it cold or warm! And also starts with an e-start, but poorly.

So the actual question is, is it normal that e-starter spins with engine? I took e-starter gear off, because it makes kickstarter slightly harder to kick when gear is placed to engine. Engine also idles normally without it.

and i know that e-starters are for *******, just wondering if something is broken inside the engine? Feels quite odd that starter are meant to spin with engine. :?

Thanks!

I hope you guys understand my bad english.. :happy8: I'm from Finland :)
 
Sounds like the sprag is stuck and not releasing. On the older models (prior to 2001) the sprag is a very expensive part, around $1000 USD I believe as it comes as an assembly only. When the sprag finally gives out on the oldies most just do as you have done and revert to kick starting only.
 
I just found and downloaded a partsmanual from berg's site and there seems to be inside the engine same style starter free clutch like other bikes like you said. 1000$, huh what a price for that small part.

250 153-01 " Freewheel clutch mechanism" 97-

Have to ask it i as sparepart, 650eur is just too much for "nice to have" device part =)

I tought that berg's part prices are resonable... other engine parts have same kind of prices? :wall:
 
I have been told that it is now only sold as an assembly with the counter balancer. Hopefully a dealer or someone who has purchased one recently will come along and be able to provide up to date info as many dealers frequent this site.
 
try all years that it's relevant to as one year might have it down as individual parts.

regards

Taffy
 
monttukone said:
Hi

I have a FE400 '00, still with original SEM stator and dellorto carburetor. Starts with kickstarter at first or 2nd kick, no matter is it cold or warm! And also starts with an e-start, but poorly.

So the actual question is, is it normal that e-starter spins with engine? I took e-starter gear off, because it makes kick starter slightly harder to kick when gear is placed to engine. Engine also idles normally without it.

and i know that e-starters are for *******, just wondering if something is broken inside the engine? Feels quite odd that starter are meant to spin with engine. :?

Thanks!

I hope you guys understand my bad english.. :happy8: I'm from Finland :)

Hi,

Your English is very good.

I have an 00 FE501E with 385 hours on it and a 04 550.

At 272 hours, 7400 miles, the right side case on the 00 cracked and I tore it down to repair it. The Husaberg tech that looked at my parts said my Freewheel clutch mechanism looked brand new and was perfectly clean, He said normally they are full of metal chips and sludge from the owners not changing oil properly.

I change my oil HOT after each days ride. Thats the reason why my clutch looked so good.
Are you the original owner? If not, how many hours or how old was it when you purchased it. Do you know how frequently the previous owner changed the oil? How often do you change your oil? Do you change it hot? About how many hours are on the Berg?

I ask these questions because you need to split the cases to replace the clutch. Thats a costly step if you take it to a shop. If the clutch turns the engine over O.K. but it just seems to E-start start hard your freewheel clutch is probably O.K. You said it seemed to kick easier with the starter removed so I suspect your freewheel has some junk in it.

If your valve clearance is set properly, and your carb. needle jet and needle are not worn too badly (less than 100 hours ) and your idle mixture and speed is set properly the E-start should start it in less than 3 seconds. Mine fires on the 1st or 2nd turn of the crank when warmed up. From cold you need to use the choke and kick it through slowly 3-4 times and they it should E-start right up.

Now, lets talk about your ignition stator. If it is starting to short out internally, it will also be producing a lower voltage spark., which first makes it harder to E-start. Kick starting the engine spins the crank faster than the E-starter does, so you won't notice this as soon in the failure process if kick starting it, but it will soon get to the point where the E-start won't start it anymore and the kick start barely does start it.

Many of us have had the stator fail, myself included 3 times. I finally had Sparks rewind mine and the bike runs better than it ever had before.

Give us some answers to the above questions, and maybe we can help you.

Regards,

Joe
 
JoeUSA said:
I have an 00 FE501E with 385 hours on it and a 04 550.

At 272 hours, 7400 miles, the right side case on the 00 cracked and I tore it down to repair it. The Husaberg tech that looked at my parts said my Freewheel clutch mechanism looked brand new and was perfectly clean, He said normally they are full of metal chips and sludge from the owners not changing oil properly.

I change my oil HOT after each days ride. Thats the reason why my clutch looked so good.
Are you the original owner? If not, how many hours or how old was it when you purchased it. Do you know how frequently the previous owner changed the oil? How often do you change your oil? Do you change it hot? About how many hours are on the Berg?

I ask these questions because you need to split the cases to replace the clutch. Thats a costly step if you take it to a shop. If the clutch turns the engine over O.K. but it just seems to E-start start hard your freewheel clutch is probably O.K. You said it seemed to kick easier with the starter removed so I suspect your freewheel has some junk in it.

If your valve clearance is set properly, and your carb. needle jet and needle are not worn too badly (less than 100 hours ) and your idle mixture and speed is set properly the E-start should start it in less than 3 seconds. Mine fires on the 1st or 2nd turn of the crank when warmed up. From cold you need to use the choke and kick it through slowly 3-4 times and they it should E-start right up.

Now, lets talk about your ignition stator. If it is starting to short out internally, it will also be producing a lower voltage spark., which first makes it harder to E-start. Kick starting the engine spins the crank faster than the E-starter does, so you won't notice this as soon in the failure process if kick starting it, but it will soon get to the point where the E-start won't start it anymore and the kick start barely does start it.

Many of us have had the stator fail, myself included 3 times. I finally had Sparks rewind mine and the bike runs better than it ever had before.

Give us some answers to the above questions, and maybe we can help you.

Regards,

Joe

Hi

Thanks for the help, i try to answer questions best as i can. :)

I'm not the original owner, i buyed it recently.. i think i'm 5th owner. I'm not sure about hours driven before, but last owner made 1400eur engine service at 2005 and he said that he had no time to drive. :roll: Almost everything replaced inside the engine, exept tranny and balancer stuff. I have as proof a servicebill. :D Bike is also in very good shape.

Ofcourse i changed the engine oil & filter and set valve clearance etc. stuff when i got the bike. Exept i changed the engine oil when engine was cold, also noticed that there were very small metal particles on microfilter / oil pump filter. Oil was black and looked like a car black metallic paint ;)

With e-start my berg fires up at cold and warm, but not so good as kickstarter. Idling is alot harder with it, i'm quite sure that starter spins with engine. I just used it few minutes when i saw the problem, so e-starter gear bearings are still good condition.

I think the idle mixture is quite ok, it's set to manufacturers specs and works fine. Starts with kickstarter first or second at cold with choke and hot often at first try. Setup are 190 main, 35 pilot, 45 choke, K35 needle and circlip at 3rd pos. Carb slide was also very good condition, almost new. :)

What comes to stator, i notised light rush on metal surfaces, i sand them off and covered metal pieces with water resistant vaseline and WD40. Battery charging output are about 13.5v at rpms. How much that sparks rewind would cost? I'm not sure is it original stator from '00, maybe someone changed it too.

So.. i should try to change the oil twice or three times in row when engine is hot and maybe open the e-starter gear cover and shake the counter gear just before oil draining? Sounds very resonable that metal stuff jammed the free clutch.

Also engine pulls great and are very silent, no odd mechanical noises or something else.

1L oil capacity and people cant change them regulary, so easy and fast operation. =)

Thanks a lot, i will post the oil change results!
 
Damn, before oil change test i went offroad and soon my husa started to behave strangely at idle. Like misfiring.. engine stalled in the forest and about after 5min cooling session, it started again. At home i bolt sparkplug off and sparks flashing sometimes through insulation. Strange that at rpms it worked ok.

What causes this? Too hot plug or a bit too rich idle mixture? (I use standard 8 plug) Idle mixture / pilot jet is a bit too large because sparkplug color was slightly black.

Sparkplug broken when i went offroad and drove very slowly in forest. Overheating? Coolant level was ok.
 
Which insulation are you referring to? The spark plug wire? or the insulator part of the spark plug?
 
husabutt said:
Which insulation are you referring to? The spark plug wire? or the insulator part of the spark plug?

Yes, i meant sparkplug insulator.. so the plug is broken. This is 2nd plug in one week.

Husas aren't meant to drive slow, only fast and full throttle? :twisted:
 
Your jetting is possibly rich, especially on the main jet and your stator also may be on its way out.

A simple check is to merely, put a new plug in to, rest it against the cylinder and kick it over. If you are getting a nice fat blue spark you are probably good. A small hard to see and sometimes not even there spark means that more than likely your stator is bad.
 
husabutt said:
Your jetting is possibly rich, especially on the main jet and your stator also may be on its way out.

A simple check is to merely, put a new plug in to, rest it against the cylinder and kick it over. If you are getting a nice fat blue spark you are probably good. A small hard to see and sometimes not even there spark means that more than likely your stator is bad.

I bolt today new DCPR7E plug and it started a first kick at cold! With sandals! :D Spark was.. hmm .. normal. Not a mega flash, but IMO it was pretty good spark, so the old SEM should be ok.

I think the plug just fouled due to too slowly driving, 8 plug just cant reach its selfcleaning temperature at tight enduro trails? Cause i had no problems at motocross track. Anyone same problems? If even 7 plug fouls, then i should really concentrate jetting.. lets see.

I forgot that husas are race machines, i used it like those heavy and mild enduros DR, KLR. Long idle, slowly driving, etc. :bash:
 

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