I tried to take the end cap off the factory exhaust can of my 2011 FE 570, and found that it was silicon-glued in place at the factory. It won't budge. Ideas anyone?
Ruger said:
That's how mine was so I stuck an old broom handle in the end cap and started gently pulling up and down and the seal broke loose. Then with a rubber mallet I smacked it back and forth from top to bottom and it came out. They are a very snug fit and it will take some patience. If you have a saws all you can cut the tube off in about 10 seconds, just squeeze it in a vise and let it rip.
Thanks, Bergman! (Now why didn't I think of a broomstick as an exhaust tool?) How much of the "tail pipe" do your recommend cutting off? I was thinking about cutting it at an angle so that the eliptical opening faces the primary tube. Good idea?
BTW, here's my solution to HSBS (Husaberg Scorched Boot Syndrome).
BTW, here's my solution to HSBS (Husaberg Scorched Boot Syndrome).
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Ruger said:
Good solution for a heat shield, I have carbon fiber now it works good too. I cut the tube off flush with the end cap leaving the welded brace in place. You probably won't notice any difference either way. You need to remove the sas device and misc smog lines next.
Wow! You cut off all of the tail pipe that you possibly could! What results did you realize? Is it much louder? Did you notice a difference in performance?
How'd you like to hold an on-line clinc? If you could provide some words and photos on the SAS device and the smog lines, it would really be beneficial!
How'd you like to hold an on-line clinc? If you could provide some words and photos on the SAS device and the smog lines, it would really be beneficial!
Did any of you guys have to adjust your fueling? Like a different map or any tuning? Ive been wanting to open up my stock can but am worried about the fueling since it doesnt have an O2 sensor. At night my exhaust header has a slight red glow to it so that worried me even more and I dont wanna mess anything up.
I think it's probably safe to say that your exhaust can glows red in the dark because the hot gasses are held in it due to back pressure in the exhaust tract. I made a very minimal change to mine - I took 1/8th inch from the internal end of the tailpipe, and rounded the end inside and out to prmote gas flow. It made a difference. Throttle response is better, and it sounds more like a thumper and less like a sewing machine.
Ok thanks. Yea, I assumed it was glowing red either cuz it was lean (I live in California and emissions laws here are horrible to stock bikes) or because the stock exhaust is ridiclously restrictive. I guess its off to gut the muffler I go!
I took a conservative approach. I figured I could take a little off at a time, and incrementally ease into the solution. What I found is that the first increment was enough. In fact, I put the spark arrestor screen back in. But I've got a second screen on order, and I'm going to modify it to take off the inner layer of the screen. I think that's going to be the right combination for now.
Not ure what is going on but I can see no picture. Can anybody else? Appreciate your concern a lot.
In have a 2011 FE570S, and the factory exhaust can on my bike forced the exhaust gasses through two 180 degree bends. I successively tried an increasingly aggressive removal of material from the baffle, and no matter what I did the can still choked the engine. I was very methodical, and tried to preserve the spark arrestor characteristics. No joy. Eventually I concluded that in order to remove enough restriction from the exhaust can to make the engine run like the engineers intended, I'd have to either remove the baffle entirely or remove so much material from it that it would not retain its intended spark arrestor characteristics. So I bought an FMF 4.1 Factory slip-on, and it's run like a dream ever since.
Can ANYONE tell me a part# for the FMF 4.1 that will fit my 2011 FS 570? I ordered one that says it fits and it was no where close. ANY help appretiated, I love my Husa but parts are dificult to find.
if anyone has bought one and has a box with a part# laying around that would be AMAZING. Its time to gut and repack mine so might as well attempt to find a slip on again
Also, who has tried an ECU or ECU piggy back on these, noticable or not worth the $$$$ ?
My reading has led me to a 50/50 mix but they have all been with different scenarios. The vortex seems the most flexible but holy $700 hole in the account batman.
Also, who has tried an ECU or ECU piggy back on these, noticable or not worth the $$$$ ?
My reading has led me to a 50/50 mix but they have all been with different scenarios. The vortex seems the most flexible but holy $700 hole in the account batman.
If you can get someone to flash the Euro map it makes a huge difference. It sounds like that is tough now though.
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