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FCR Tuning Tips

Joined Jul 2001
3K Posts | 1+
El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
Here is my reply to an Email regarding a heavy throttle hesitation with one of my Jet Kits.

I believe said reply will prove of overall benefit as it is not specific to my product.


Hi Giorgio.

Completely warm up the engine by riding.
Adjust pilot fuel screw plus / minus one turn from the initial 1 1/2 turn setting to achieve best overall running.

Note:
Avoid prolonged idle and / or incomplete warm up by riding.

Above idle small throttle openings (1/8 - 1/4) adjust the pilot air screw (under inlet bell) out for lean in for rich. You must then most likely readjust the pilot fuel screw. Idle rpm should be roughly 1600.

Above idle to roughly 1/4 throttle is very sensitive to pilot air screw settings.

All settings are designed for smooth throttle application. Snapping the throttle and / or wide open throttle below the power curve will create a flat spot. If such is your style simply raise the needle (lower the clip) and / or install a larger main jet (i.e. #170)

Best power is most often made with a #150 main jet however only @ wide open throttle high rpm.

Best torque with a #160 main jet however only between 4,000 rpm - 6,000 rpm 3/4 to full throttle.

Best "snap throttle" (i.e. heavy load / low rpm) performance will call for raising the needle, a larger main fuel jet and possibly activating the pump. Unfortunately said changes reduce performance potential.

Rolling the throttle on as opposed to snapping, keeping the engine rpm in the heart of the performance range (above 4,500) before going above 1/2 throttle has proven superior with regard to reduced lap times and improved single track performance as opposed to richer tuning and / or activating the pump.

It is however possible that your particular style (maybe a former two stroke rider and / or accustom to the long pull of say a conventional round slide carburetor as the Keihin is very quick) may have difficulty with rolling on the throttle. In such cases richer tuning as outlined and / or pump activation will assist.

Hope this helps and please keep me posted.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
:)
Great Advice Dale
I just did some testing with the FCR on my LC4 tonight
I was doing the pull the hot start test and see if it runs better or worse
It always picked up speed so I leaned it out 2 clips and now the hit is much softer

Terry
 
i ditched work and drove an hour south friday to get out of the snow and fine-tune the jetting on my 550 (w/dale's jet kit). the bike felt, sounded and smelled a bit rich right off idle, and ran best with the fuel screw at 0 -1/2 turn, so gradually dialed the pilot air jet out about 1/8 turn at a time until it started feeling a little boggy when opening the throttle too quickly (normal riding maneuver, not snapping it open as fast i could), and then went back in 1/8 turn. since it was colder and about 1000' lower than the bulk of my riding, i was looking for good results with the fuel screw at around 2 turns, to leave me some adjustment for higher elevations and warmer temps. after an hour or two of fiddling, i was entirely happy. the bike needs choke when cold, but not for too long (15-20 seconds or so), and throttle response, power and fuel economy all seem great.

i can make the bike too lean if i really snap the throttle open in a non-riding fashion. i always adjust the air screw on my 2-strokes so that i can just barely get it to bog with an unnatural maneuver like that and they seem to like it.

pulling out the hot start at idle makes the revs go up. i don't know if that's good or bad. the bike seems to be running great everywhere, so i'm not going to worry about it for now. i don't seem to get any noticeable popping on deceleration. i don't really care about that 1 way or another as long as it's not too bad anyway.

i think i'll pretty much just leave it alone and go riding now. well, not now, since we've had 6-8" of fresh snow this afternoon. we got caught in a gnarly whiteout backcountry skiing above town today and overshot the drainage we wanted to come down and ended up finding our way when we came across a short singletrack that i ride in the summer on the bike and recognized it.


other observations:
a) getting to the pilot air bleed jet is probably the easiest carb adjustment except for the fuel screw, especially if you have a bondhus head 4mm allen wrench. it only took my 10 mins or less to pull off the seat and tank, remove the hose clamps on the airboot, unscrew the plastic carb bell, and remove the bell and airboot together (pushing the bell as far as it will go into the airboot makes removing them together a snap), and then put it all back together and go ride some more.

b) i'm not very smart about jetting, but i was surmising, and it seems like stock jetting is very very lean on the pilot jet. perhaps either to compensate for the excessive richness caused by the AP under normal trailriding conditions. or perhaps the lean pilot jet is emissions-related and the AP is trying to make up for that. i suspect that emissions tests are at steady throttle.

c) i like jetting a 550 better than a smaller bike. since it already makes more power than 165 lb guy needs most of the time, i can just worry about driveability and making it behave well (start, idle, throttle response, not prone to stalling) and not split hairs about an extra hp or two under optimum conditions. especially since my average ride covers several thousand feet in elevation changes. it does definitely feel more powerful than stock jetting tho.

bottom line is i'm happy with dale's jet kit and with his jetting advice so far.

-mark
 

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