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FCR For My 03 SM650

Well. Tried the starter fluid trick all around the carb and no change in idle. So i don't think i have an intake leak. Next I guess I'll replace the slide seal and maybe the slide plate. Could be leaking around the plate causing a weaker signal at the PJ.

Thoughts?

Greg
 
can you do a photo of where your ignition line is through the window please?

also, the tappets: how are you doing them? 1/6th or with a feeler gauge?

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
can you do a photo of where your ignition line is through the window please?

also, the tappets: how are you doing them? 1/6th or with a feeler gauge?

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Well I recently did the valve springs (double) set the tappets 1/6 turn out just like my KTM). Set the timing using the dead stop to find real top dead center and lined that up with the line on the stator. Rode it for 2 hrs on the dell orto and adjusted the tappets again. Rode it for a few more hrs in that configuration. Ran as it usually did but I could actually start it on the button. I replaced the auto decomp while I was in there. The decomp does seem to stick open occasionally and I have to kick it. Would always start on the first kick.

Now with the FCR, it is difficult to start unless I have the PS out 3.5 turns and runs hot at idle. 3.5 turns does run well but that is just too much. I haven't gone through starting to tune it yet (reduce the main first) as everything I will need to do will lean it out.

Greg
 
well go back to your original PJ set on both the PJ and the PAJ. then you should start the rest of your work on it.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
well go back to your original PJ set on both the PJ and the PAJ. then you should start the rest of your work on it.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Ok. Just for reference the PJ was 45 and the PAJ was 100.

Greg
 
Swapped them out. Now (after warm up and the choke off) it idles at 2 turns out (point where the idle speed stops increasing). Heating up normally now and the fans bring the temp back down normally. Dropped down to the next size main (165) and ill take it out and see how it runs. Looks like I have a small fuel leak at the accelerator pump cover. I'll try tightening it next time I have the carb out.

Greg
 
Pulled the carb out again to check the leak at the accelerator pump and one of the small gaskets was missing. Probably fell out when I put the new diaphragm in. Ordered both new o rings for the pump.

Could that be causing the lean issue?

Greg
 
I tend to loose the o-ring on the mixture screw. that will definitely make it run lean.
 
Looks like that was the issue. Replaced the accelerator pump gaskets and it idles with less turns of the PS. I'll swap back in the PJ and PAJ that came in the kit, then I can start again.

Greg
 
Looks like I have an issue. Put the jets back and tried to get the needle out to adjust the position and I srtripped out the flats on the retainer. The needle is in the highest position and that only left about 0.5mm of flat to grab with the Allen key.

Now what?

Greg
 
well just grind about 2mm of needle off the top and buy a new clip? clearly you're never going to use C1 again are you?

you're a big boy now - work it out.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
well just grind about 2mm of needle off the top and buy a new clip? clearly you're never going to use C1 again are you?

you're a big boy now - work it out.

Taffy
Click to expand...

Wasn't sure, Taffy. Never tuned one before. That's why I asked.

Thanks for your tactful direction. You use your mouth prettier than a $20 whore!

Got it put back together and tore my second carb boot. That was my last one. I do have a boot from my old KTM motor. I'm in the process of designing a billet adapter to work on this set up. I have a guy that has a CNC mill and could have him make it once I finish the CAD file and test a model. If it works out I may be able to offer them for sale. Stay tuned.

Greg
 

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