FC600 Clutch question

You say you adjusted the cable , do you have free travel in the lever? If no adjust until you do. If yes, does the bike have the correct grade oil? If no or dont no, change to correct oil. If yes ,check clutch plates, they may be warped, re new plates and she will be good to go. easy yes.

Mick

the clutch basket gets notches worn in it so the discs can hang.
but bergs are terrible for finding neutral when they are running anyhow.
additional, there is a 'sweet spot' for the lobe on the clutch and it should be
adjusted so that you are in that sweet spot.
maybe someone can fill you in on that. i dont have the info there.
tuts

yu fried the dlutch just for a mont. the plates warp and you can't actually get them to disengage completely. so i would pull the plates. find an engineers plate and trow the offending plates.

tuts is right aout the grooving of the drum (ot basket) making neutral a bas-tard to find.

regards

Taffy

I have about the same problem with my -92 350/400

I hope i have found a solution i am waiting for some parts i have ordered before i know.

Firstly i found another clutch lever, from a 500 engine i bought in pieces, that gives a longer stroke (about 0.5mm) than my original lever.
I think that the 500 lever comes from a newer engine.
Since the notch in the 500 lever is deeper i must use the schims that is used from -95 to get the lever in the right starting position, wich i belive is important to get the max stroke possible.

I have ordered some schims and will try as soon as they arrive.

The left one on the image is the original -92 350 lever, and the right one is from the 500 engine, (newer style?).

/Tomme

After checking all the normal things that cause a clutch to drag and finding nothing wrong with my 96 (this was back when it was new), I watched the clutch very closely with the cover off and the pressure plate would bow into a nice convex shape before finally moving off the plates. Then, in 97 Husaberg literature a strengthened pressure plate was mentioned. Always meant to try the update, but ended up living with it til I sold it for a newer one so I can't attest to how much it helps. FWIW, my 98 and 99 models didn't drag much compared to the 96. The aftermarket lever/perch assemblies that come with three selectable leverage ratios might help if set to the position that allows the most clutch cable movement. The extra cable movement will come at the expense of a bit harder lever pull.
Dan

Excuse my language limitations, but with "The aftermarket lever/perch assemblies" you mean the clutch lever on the handlebar, right?

Can you recommendend a brand or source for levers with adjustable ratios that works good?

Thanks
Tomme

Today i assembled my clutch with the newer lever schimmed to a good starting position.
The clutch disengages much better now, there is still a slight drag but i guess i could live with it.
But, i might consider testing anothher handlebar clutch-lever with adjustable ratio to get a longer stroke in the clutch.

I am currently using Motorex Power Synt 10W/50 oil, do anyone have any comments regarding oil brands and qualities and how it affects the clutch?

/Tomme

Tommo

you have plenty of stroke / leverage in the clutch now. you need to remove the plates and have them scroll ground at an engineers. these are mass-produced plates and there are imperfections on many of them. scroll ginding will remove these.

don't forget also that the gearchange mechanism is purt of the clutch 'scenario' and so is the clutch drum and the clutch baxket.. there is an article in the doc regarding the clutch drum.

regards

Taffy

regards

Taffy