What do you guys think about these forks.Why do most all the husabergs come with inverted forks and my bike has conv. forks.I have adjusted them all up and down and they seem stiff,plus the damn thing washes out so easy on sand.Are my forks high tech.Sorry for the bitchn but it has hurt me twice.
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
on that model you may find the problem is the rear is too soft and it makes the forks seem hard and wash out. If standard spring try winding up so race sag is at least 95, and even try 85 mm. Take note of the static sag it should be 35, but you may have to accept 17/18mm. Then check the fork static sag is no more than 35mm when forks warm. Adust pre-load accordingly. Even if you are light you may need to go to 46 springs, but pump the rear preload up first. You need to do some work on the bottoming out cone later in the internals of the fork to get use of the full travel. The right side up forks were fairly good and light.
I just got done cleaning and changing fluid in my WP extremes. These are my favorite fork! Recently sold my GG ec250 ohlins equipped, the extremes are much better imo. Hare scrambles riding.
Thanks for the replys,I will check it and see where im at with sag.I just got the bike about 2 months ago and it was not running very good untill I pulled the rocker cover off and found the cam out of time.Im going to pull the forks apart and clean them up and change the oil.Do you guys use fork skins or gaters.both the seals are leaking and need to be replaced.Is atf good for the forks or should I use fork oil.
Joined Dec 2004
2K Posts | 248+
back in cottonwood, az
you just answered your own question why they don't work well. you can use atf, but there are so many different types nowadays, just get 5w fork oil when you get your seals. i don't think they make foreskins for a 50. all they do anyhow is trap crud on your seals. just clean your dust seals regularly and it'll be fine.
Moose has fork skins, just bought some. Absolutely required with these forks as they a very susceptible to dirt in the seals.
Clean out your seal before you change them and see if the seals stop leaking.
Clean out your seal before you change them and see if the seals stop leaking.
sanjoh said:
I tried a set of skins on my 501 and had more seal problems that without. I just lift the wipers every so often and clean them out. I pour a little fork oil in there between the seal and wiper and press them back in. This seems to give me the best seal life, but they do 'do' seals more than anything else I've ever had.
Steve
Valved to suit, 0.44 springs, and 5w in the rebound leg and 2.5 w in the comp leg at 120 mm.
Steve
Steve
Are you telling me that the forks are different from each other,1 comp leg and 1 rebound.I dont have a owners manual for the bike that explans this unless I did not see it.Now I am lost.
One leg has adjustable compression, the other rebound. They both damp both ways, just that the external adjustment is one per leg. Its marked on the caps.
Steve
Steve
Yea I see the marks on the caps now.If it wasent for you guys this bike would have been sold,but im starting to like more and more. 
For oil type and level, I followed a guy's recipe over on KTMtalk.
Compression leg Mobil one synthetic ATF (7.5wt) - 130mm
Rebound 10wt fork oil - 130mm
Compression leg Mobil one synthetic ATF (7.5wt) - 130mm
Rebound 10wt fork oil - 130mm
How do you set up height of the fork in the triple clamp,They have a mark about 1/2 " from the top of the tube
gcs454 said:
By test riding. With sags set, if the won't hold a line, try raising the forks a bit. If the front tucks, lower them. You should be able to feel 3 mm, so try 4-5 mm increments.
Steve
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