Engine stops randomly and wont start

McNair · Apr 21, 2016

Hi guys! First of all i want to excuse my bad vocabulary, i dont know all the mechanical terms in english.

I had this problem with my 2011 FS570 last year. The engine would stop randomly, usually when i let the throttle out and decreased speed. It sounds like when you're in a too low gear, and the engine dies out. When i tried starting it, it just cranked the battery without anything happening. I usually push-started it, but all of you berg-owners would know what a pain that is. When i drove it home and let it cool of over the night, it usually started easily the next day.

Im not a mechanic at all, so i need some help figuring this out. Would it make sence that the battery is bad? I know it doesnt need the battery when the engine is running, but the fuel injector is electrical on my bike. So if i decrease speed while riding, and the dynamo starts running slower, could that cut my fuel injection?

I talked to a friend of mine before putting the bike in the garage last winter, and he told me to clean my carburetor. I gave it a shot, but couldnt get the thing out with my cheap tools and bad mechanic skills. I managed to screw up the throttle ajustments, and decided to leave it. Now that the snow is gone, im thinking of taking it to the mechanics to fix it up. But the best thing would be if anyone here knows whats up with my bike!

What do you guys think? Should i get a new battery, or could it be somethng else? And also, do you guys have any sugestions instead of the yuasa-battery? I've had some problems with it earlier.

All help is apreciated!

Rainerio · Apr 21, 2016

Your bike doesn't have a carburetor it's fuel injected. Fuel pump might be bad.

tourist · Apr 21, 2016

Welcome!!

From memory reading the posts here, then yes, insufficient power can have this effect - also a clogged injector, a bad fuel pump. Doesn't quite sound like the pump as you were able to push-start it. Hmm. Or? When you tried starting it, did the engine turn or not? If not, then that indicates electrical. In other words if the battery voltage isn't enough to push the engine properly then it won't start of course

Battery - or connections!

However, the works-day-after thing indicates the pump - the fuel pump may start working poorly when it heats up, when it cools down it starts working better ...

For batteries, I tend towards the EarthX LiFePO4 batteries. AFAIK the highest-quality LiFePO4's out there. Lighter and have more current output than comparable lead-acid. More expensive but the battery chemistry is more stout so should last longer, especially with the good electronic control circuit they have in them. I haven't tried yet, but they're the next thing I'm buying.

McNair · Apr 21, 2016

Rainerio said:
Your bike doesn't have a carburetor it's fuel injected. Fuel pump might be bad.

My mechanic skills is worse than i thought, haha.. Thanks for the help though!

tourist said:
Welcome!!

From memory reading the posts here, then yes, insufficient power can have this effect - also a clogged injector, a bad fuel pump. Doesn't quite sound like the pump as you were able to push-start it. Hmm. Or? When you tried starting it, did the engine turn or not? If not, then that indicates electrical. In other words if the battery voltage isn't enough to push the engine properly then it won't start of course

Battery - or connections!

However, the works-day-after thing indicates the pump - the fuel pump may start working poorly when it heats up, when it cools down it starts working better ...

For batteries, I tend towards the EarthX LiFePO4 batteries. AFAIK the highest-quality LiFePO4's out there. Lighter and have more current output than comparable lead-acid. More expensive but the battery chemistry is more stout so should last longer, especially with the good electronic control circuit they have in them. I haven't tried yet, but they're the next thing I'm buying.

Thanks for answering and describing things easily

When i tried starting it after it stopped, the engine turned for sure. I tried until the battery died every time.

As i said i've had problems with that battery before, so i've got the feel of how long i can try starting it before the battery is empty. When i tried after it stopped with the current problem, i got the feeling that the battery was drained quicker than last time i had a problem with it.

But lets say the fuel pump is the problem.. Is it any tricks to check this out?

tourist · Apr 21, 2016

haha, np

This stuff IS mostly easy, it's just a question of jargon ..!

McNair said:
But lets say the fuel pump is the problem.. Is it any tricks to check this out?

IIRC you can hear it if the pump is blocked - different/no whine

I haven't had pump troubles though, so I'm not sure

Quite a few posts on here - try adding site:husaberg.org to a Google search for, say, 570 pump

That said, you might want to have a good look at setting the TPS well. It's supposed to do subtle but important things, not least for starting and idle.

tourist · Apr 21, 2016

Less likely scenarios could be the valves / rings / compression? I doubt it though as slack ought to close up when the engine heats up?

I'd emphatically recommend getting some good basic tools! Makes maintenance a fun journey instead of something to dread.

High-quality screwdriver bits, impact driver (ideally both a manual and electric, manual-only is enough if you can't put in the cash for a powered one! - air-compressor impact driver is good too if you have one on hand!), valve measurement blades, torque wrenches (two: one down around whatever torque values the fine stuff in the motor needs (sub-10Nm?), one bigger one that starts about where the small one ends and goes up to maybe 100Nm or something?)

Heat gun or even hair dryer is not bad ... grease, WD-40 ... decent basic autoranging multimeter ...

A setup to clean the injector! Battery plus some form of compressed air (or some kind of cleaning spray that's OK for the injector? - search for Jon Andersson's posts on cleaning the injector) ... Here's a kind of Robinson Crusoe method for cleaning the injector that's good in that it shows how simple it really is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU8dVC4t5vU ... not sure if it's the best method in a garage?

tourist · Apr 21, 2016

(p.s, Sorry - didn't see the part where you wanted to take it to the mechanic

That's 100% valid too!)

jon andersson · Apr 21, 2016

Was that bike bought in 2010 or 2011? If it was bought new in 2011 they retrofitted the black 10 micron inline filter before the injector assembly. Remove that and it will work fine. The oem battery is very good and nothing will crank the 570 for long periods without dying.
That the bike starts fine when it's cold can be an indication of that filter. It swells when it's warm and opens up again when it cools down.

I suggest you check this first as that is by far the cheapest and easiest thing to check. If no filter, then go other routes.

LadyBerg · Apr 21, 2016

If it's not the fuel filter as Jon commented below it sounds Exactly like a bad fuel pump esp. if you can start it after 1/2 hour or more. When the pump heats up the impeller heat seizes and no amount of cranking the engine will get the bike to restart after this has happened. I've replaced 2 of them on my FE450 and 1 on a Husky FE250 which was a 2012.

fe390vt · Apr 22, 2016

cut out

sounds like a loose terminal or wiring problem.

Smash101 · Apr 22, 2016

Sounds like a fuel pump to me, but listen to everything Jon has to say, he know the fuel injection system inside and out.

FE350 · Apr 22, 2016

FWIW,

Fuel injection is no different than carburation. It all works with air intake fuel delivery and spark than exhaust. So almost all the diagnostic routes are the same with the exception of having a trouble code to give you a direction. On a bike with on board diagnostic this would be the absolute first this to check is for a code as if it dies and fails it will for sure have mapped this and stored something. So this would be a direction to follow.

I would check this problem step by step and not guess. This issue could be one of many things. Anything from plugged air filter through ignition, to a shorted kill switch or cracked spark plug and even a plugged muffler.

The keep it simple theory sometime is the best. Start step by step.

When this bike stops check the following.

Spark first, if you have spark spray a little fuel into throttle body and see if it flashes? If it flashes now we can check other things such as fuel delivery and pressure, fuel pump, injector etc.

If no spark then we need to check ignition source such as a kill switch issue or cracked spark plug as this will shut the bike down when its hot.

No guessing as it only makes for that much more time in finding the real issue at hand. Do not ever overlook the simple basics first as so many technicians jump the easy stuff to only spend tons of hours and then find it was a simple quick fix such as a adjustment etc.

Smash101 · Apr 22, 2016

If it happens again, tap the start button and listen carefully for the fuel pump, it should run for about 3 second, if you hear nothing then the fuel pump is bad.

jon andersson · Apr 23, 2016

I fully agree with FE350.
The reason I said filter is due to the year it was sold and that it free to check before opening up the tank and maybe even buy a new pump. The symptoms you have seems like fuel pump, and it could also be a damaged cable somewhere.

So as FE350 said; do it in a scientific step by step way. Check the simple things first and when confirmed ok move to next.

One time I started to tear my bike apart until I realized one of the battery terminals had a loose connection. On an EFI bike electricity is important and one first step for me should have been to check if the system was connected to a charged battery before looking at faults in the loom. .... One learn, and for some reason learn the same lesson again and again.....

McNair · May 12, 2016

Thanks for all the help and complementary answers, really apreciate it.

I've decided to take your tips to the mechanic, and make him check out the pump. Will update you later on what happens!

WoodsRooster · May 12, 2016

Check to make sure that the air hose coming off your gas cap is not clogged. If you have one of those one way valves on the hose throw it away and just use a piece of hose.

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Engine stops randomly and wont start

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