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engine rebuilt summary and.......

oyk

Joined Jan 2005
344 Posts | 0+
kavala, greece
dear friends,

here is a list of what i did to my engine when suddenly stopped working properly(mixture seemed to get really lean when the bike got hot) and smoking real bad:

the first day i found that...

1.broken needle circlip,carb worn(vhsb38) - bought new phm 40
2.unscrewed sem - bigger threads new bolts+loctite
3.broken woodruff key - new one from a yamaha

after these repairs nothing really changed so i split it.....

for the next 3 months.....

4.very worn piston rings - bought new piston
5.worn cylinder - had it electroplated
6.broken reed valve - a new one was installed
7.worn exhaust valve guides - put new guides, new seals, treated and aligned all valves
8.cylinder and cylinderhead combustion surfaces found to be not entirely flat - had them treated so as to match perfectly and put new gasket

after all these repairs nothing changed too !!!!!

oil consumption is about 1 liter at 100km, scary isn't it 8O

here some scrappy cellphone pics when i last split it few hours ago:

Image(041).jpg



note the mysterius oil remains above the upper exhaust valve

when i assemble it i applied some red hi temp sealant on the cylinder and cylinder head surfases (the cam chain side) so as to locate any leaks from there.


Image(043).jpg





Image(044).jpg



cylinder and piston are rectified by a specialized shop, gaps and play are re-checked by me before install and found to be factory. no matter though since the smoking effect did not changed a bit after putting the new piston and cylinder...


Image(045).jpg



what do you boys see/think that i don't :?:
there must be something very wrong, but what?
 
Hi Oyk,
Sorry for all your misfortune.

#1
Insure that the crankshaft cavity is properly sealed (ie no missing main bearing oil seal and / or pieces of engine case, etc.) The only connection to the gearbox should be through that of the reed valve.

#2
Drill and tap a hole into the center of your oil filter cover. Install a pressure gauge and note operating pressure. peak pressure in excess of 15 PSI indicates a problem. (modified and / or stuck bypass, etc.)

Oil ring certainly appears to be overwhelmed.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Dale
 
wtf

thanks for the reply mr Dale,

as for the crankcase, the main bearing seal is in place and when i removed the cylinder oil level (inside crankcase) was low as it should be and piston skirt had only a thin film of oil on it(opposed to what i saw when i discovered the broken reed valve-crankcase filled with oil and piston soked in oil).

i will double check about any blocked bypass though (there is reed valve and the oil filter-there is no other bypass to check right?)

i even consider the possibility that there is a crack at the cylinder head which is not noticeable and the oil + some air find their way through it.

in the following picture, the oil remains between the upper left exhaust valve and the cooland bypass are there in the same place each time i open it, this indicates something but i don't now WTF it is !



Image(041).jpg
 
HI Oyk is it a loose valve guide or crack in head it must be smoking like a train with that much oil maybe have the cylinder and head pressure tested
 
Hi Oyk,
Ditto for nzbergs statement.
Also measure the compressed thickness of your used head gasket with a micrometer to ensure sufficient gasket sealing compression in comparison to a new one.
Dales statement in regard to overloading oil ring from stuck press. relief valve/ damaged cases/ oil jet orifice is also possible.
Saw an air cooled engine many, many years ago develop a oil consumption problem due to excessive crankpin ovality/ side clearance issue
If it were my problem, I woild be looking for an intake port/guide issue or pulling oil from cam chain cavity, as you have eliminated all other areas . Good luck !!!
 
Are those cracks I see in the cylinder head, between the spark plug and R.H intake and R.H. exhaust valve seats.
 
Hi Oyk,
I reviewed your case history and realised you have a pre pump model.
Such in combination with your statement regarding a "semi dry skirt" does indeed indicate oil entering above the piston.

With exception of the cam chain cavity the combustion chamber is separated from oil via the cooling jacket. Such being the case oil must be entering via the inlet port area and / or cam chain cavity.

If oil is entering through the inlet it will be evident as the valves will be wet with oil. If not then you must have a crack and / or excessive porosity in the area of the cam chain cavity.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
Your Data:
Heavy oil consumption occurred very quickly
piston/ring and cylinder wear
found broken flywheel key

Theory:
The broken flywheel key allowed the ign. timing to change,over a period of time detonation occurred.Detonation results in accelerated piston and ring and cylinder wear.It also often results in cracked cylinder heads ,especially 4v heads.

Conclusion:
Since you have replaced or rebuilt the piston/ring, cylinder,replaced the reed valve,verified that the was not an excessive amount of oil below the piston in the case I concluded that the oil was coming from above and checked your photo of underside the combustion chamber.After many minutes of looking I think I see a crack between the R.H. side valves and the spark plug hole.
 
nsman said:
Your Data:
Heavy oil consumption occurred very quickly
piston/ring and cylinder wear
found broken flywheel key

Theory:
The broken flywheel key allowed the ign. timing to change,over a period of time detonation occurred.Detonation results in accelerated piston and ring and cylinder wear.It also often results in cracked cylinder heads ,especially 4v heads.

Conclusion:
Since you have replaced or rebuilt the piston/ring, cylinder,replaced the reed valve,verified that the was not an excessive amount of oil below the piston in the case I concluded that the oil was coming from above and checked your photo of underside the combustion chamber.After many minutes of looking I think I see a crack between the R.H. side valves and the spark plug hole.

Hi Nsman,
Although possibly cracked oil would need to pass through coolant in order reach the combustion chamber. (ie the spark plug is surrounded by a large coolant cavity that extends into the inlet port area.

Best Regards,
Dale
 
Hi Dale,
If the sem ign screws came loose, allowing the ign advance to change enough for the engine to suffer detonation, do you think that the resultant shocks could break the flywheel key.OR, is it more likely that a broken flywheel key caused the same detonation shaking the screws loose in the sem unit?
It seems that this engine was operating under extreme conditions(possibly detonation) up to the point that it started consuming large quantities of oil.Worn valve guides and even worn piston/rings are usually a more gradual process than Oyk describes.This engine seems to have been receiving such shocks that it broke the needle clip in the carb and possibly caused head warpage.What I find baffling is that OYK has had the cylinder head off and new valve guides made and installed.Damage that this engine has sustained to cause such a major problem should be apparent with only a visual inspection,yet no one has reported any damage.This thread has really gone on for a long time and is becoming quite a puzzle.
 
Hi Nsman,
When the stator screws back out ignition timing tends to ****** albeit only a few degrees. Most resultant damage is as a result of said screws pounding around inside the flywheel.

It appears that the engine has sustained a multitude of injuries during its ten years of service. Since I do not know the engines operating and service history I can only attempt to point one in what I perceive to be the right direction based on posted data.

Such being said damage sustained during Detonation could indeed be @ the root.

Always a pleasure Nsman.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
FWIW, sheared flywheel key could have been through a serious spit back or kickback. If flywheel is not sufficiently tight on the taper, momentum of the flywheel will carry it clockwise a bit advancing the timing. Tend to say this since stator bolts were probably not tight enough as well, thus ending up floating around in the cover. When needle clip broke, burrs on the clip grooves could have allowed it to only slide down a bit at first. Advanced timing and leaness is a surefire recipe for disaster.
Run it a bit more with excessive oil entering the combustion chamber and it was probably dieseling as well. From all this shock, heads can end up broken and rods ever so slightly bent. (Learned the hard way to always be certain piston arrives completely to TDC when overhauling a thoroughly trashed upper end. :wink: )
Dan
 
smokind like a train

hi all and thank you for your valuable help :wink:

i did some digging lately in my engine, i split the cases and dissasembled it completely.

there is not any missing case parts (i mean broken) or seal missing to result oil entering in the crankshaft chamber.

the whole area seems perfect.

the only thing that was a bit odd is that the right case screws (the flywheel side) were quite loose, nothing else. i don't thing that it means anything.

on last sunday i spend 2 hours checking my cylinderhead for cracks and i only noticed one or 2 pores at one of the intake valve seats.they are tiny and they seem to be nothing special+they don't seem to lead to anywhere. even though i warmed it up, no crack was noticeable. i also concluded that (as also mr dale pointed out) even if there was a crack it would be quite impossible for oil to go through as the combustion chamber and the cam shaft area are separated by cooland passes.

this week i will assemble my engine carefully with a husqvarna/husaberg specialized engineer (which happens to be my friend). during the assembly we will examine all the engine parts one by one for any abnormalities.

please excuse my poor english but i don't quite understand when you say camchain cavity. is it the passage of the camchain from the crankshaft camchain gear to the camshaft gear, isn't it ?

dsducati wrote:From all this shock, heads can end up broken and rods ever so slightly bent.

do you suggest that a slightly bended rod could cause piston not to seal enough at some point of its travel, or i just have missunderstood ? (piston and cylinder "wear" after 100 km of testing seem symmetrical and normal)

you all seem to be extremely qualified and experience engineers and i am really thankfull to you for your even bothering to help me solving my problem out.

as for nsman mention that it is quite a puzzle, man i am a really great puzzle and riddle solver but this.............. :evil:
 
No a bent rod won't cause it to use oil relentlessly. Just mentioning it so you check it while its down. Nothing cracked? Seems like that much oil has to be coming by the rings. Piston drilled for oil drainage, ring side play correct, etc?
Dan
 
some time ago oyk wrote:

the only thing that was a bit odd is that the right case screws (the flywheel side) were quite loose, nothing else. i don't thing that it means anything.

guess what...........it meant EVERYTHING :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
 
You implying that the center cases were so loose that motor oil was pouring into the crank area from the transmission and the reed couldn't get rid of it quickly enough?
dan
 
well spotted i thought he must have ment the ignition screws as he was saying something about the stator etc how many times did you read the post before it came together but was it so loose that the oil was pouring out of the engine
 
oyk said:
some time ago oyk wrote:

the only thing that was a bit odd is that the right case screws (the flywheel side) were quite loose, nothing else. i don't thing that it means anything.

guess what...........it meant EVERYTHING :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

Hi Oyk,
IF I understand the main case screws were loose permitting oil to seep between the transmission and crankcase cavity?

If so such falls under the following statement from an earlier post:
"Insure that the crankshaft cavity is properly sealed. The only connection to the gearbox should be through that of the reed valve"

With regard For future reference to others whom may suffer a similar fate I would truly like to know what you found to be the primary trouble.

Please keep us posted.

Kind regards,
Dale
 
hi all gentlemen,

me and my pal (husqvarna/husaberg specialized mechanic, more than 20 years on and in these bikes) performed many pressure tests to ensure that the cylinder + cylinderhead were ok, then i decided to split the cases and on the way i noticed that the main case screws were so loose that you could unscrew them by hand. i didnot pay much attention to this at first but after some thinking i reconsidered...

so primary trouble found to be the main case screws and the fact that they became somehow very loose.
on the way to TDC oil was entering primarily through the case ''walls'' right from the gearbox and secondary through the oil filter.

total amount of oil in to the crankcase cavity was so much that the poor reed valve could not get rid of it entirely when piston was moving to the lower point of its travell.

the result was piston rings to be over loaded with oil which later after caused the smoking effect.

of course, when i left the engine to cool down few hours so as to remove cylinder to check it (after i replaced my broken reed valve) the oil had enough time to go back in to the gear box through the reed valve-so when i did open it i could not spot any excessive amount of oil, even piston skirt seemed dry enough.

mr lineaweaver the problem is now fixed, but as you have much more knowledge and experience on these engines i would like to know if there is something wrong in my above explanation.

and NO, i don't thing that any other berger will ever come up against such a problem. ONLY ME :D

any comments are welcome :wink:
 

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