Engine noise on 2009 FE 570

Check the threads on 'cam chain tensioner'. Apparently the cure is the timing chain tensioner from http://www.dirttricks.com.

will apparently, if you undo the tensioner holding screw and here it click up a tooth as you undo it,, it is then cured. apparently, it just needs a little help getting to the next tooth and then it can do the rest.

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

will apparently, if you undo the tensioner holding screw and here it click up a tooth as you undo it,, it is then cured. apparently, it just needs a little help getting to the next tooth and then it can do the rest.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

But how much do you loosen the barrell? There is no ratchet on the std model, that is what the update with the Dirttricks tensioner is. Loosening it allows the hydraulic pressure to extend the rod further. Did this myself, but I was a little cautious about how far I was going to loosen it, as I didin't want it to come apart while the engine is running.

Will keeping fresh oil in the engine is important, so is a proper and fresh filter. The tensioner is the same as teh KTM, as is a lot of the engine components.

Do what Taffy said " Loosen the tensioner till you hear ONE click and the job is done, just do it up, if not buy the DirtTricks tensioner and put it in as it is the same as the KTM. 90 odd % of your motor is KTM! just on a 70deg angle!
Best Regards
Sutto

Hi Guys,

I have an intermittent rattle in my 570 which it has had from new. I have removed the tensioner ( No ratchet ) compressed it and let it out a few times to see if it was sticking, all seemed OK when I reinstalled it but it still rattles when it feels like it (occasionaly) So I'm thinking the Dirt Tricks replacement could be a wise investment.

But I still love my new bike!!

Steve

As per the book on resetting the cam chain tensioner.

Set the motor at TDC on the compression stroke. (If you cannot figure this out on your own then disregard the following and take it to someone who can figure it out.)

Remove the 21mm nut and remove the timing chain tesnioner. Taking note on how the tesioner comes out of the motor, and the position of the O ring on the tensioner.

Preparing the timing chain tensioner for installation

Press the timing chain tesioner together completely

This requires some force, as the oil must be pressed out. Without pressure, the timing chain tesnsioner extends again completely. (IE after fully compressing the tensioner when you release it, it will fully extend)

Place two spacing washers or smilar aids next to the timing chain tesnsioner psiton. This ensures that, when pressed in, the piston cannot go in all the way.

Thickness of spacing washers= 2 - 2.5mm or .08 - .98"

Release the timing chain tensioner, the detent mechanism engages and the piston remains in place. Final position of the piston after engagement 3mm or .12".

IE. place two washers, 2 -2.5mm's in thickness, one on each side of the piston and re compress the tensioner until the cylinder of the tensioner comes to rest on the two washers that are on either side of the piston while the piston is on the bench. The internal detent should then engage and when you release the cylinder the piston should not extend fully on it's own, and should protrude from the cylinder 3mm.

Re-install the timing chain tensioner in the motor.

Re-install the 21mm nut and tighten to 30nm or 22ft lbs.

Re move the small nut on the back side of the 21 mm nut.

Using an appropriate drift, push through the hole in the back of the 21mm nut and push the tensioner towards the cam chain. This unlocks the cam chain tensionor.

Re- install the small nut on the back of the 21mm nut and tighten to 10nm or 7.4ft lbs.

You are now done. Start motor and let idle, it may take a bit for the oil to fully fill the tensioner and pressurize it.

will said:

Thanks for that but, the chain tensoiners on their web site seem to be manufactured only for the KTM engines, not the new Huseberg desinged engine. I'll contact them to see if they're working on a new model.

Will

Click to expand...

its the same part for both KTM-R model and Berg '09

here in Oz there is a good manual one for slae as weel that works well.

Also the extra washer spacer as per DaleEO's post above is now a routine dealer mod which seems to do the trick

my three '09 450s and one 09 570 have accumulated more than 30.000 km by now.
At almost every ride there will be rattling on one or more bikes.
KTM states: for all bikes accept the 250 it does no harm, only on the 250 the chain might jump a few teeth.....

My guess: it's a "two-way" ratching mechanism. If it is possible to press the tensioner in by hand it will almost certain also do this while installed in the engine.
When you stop a running engine it might get a firm kickback: the engine bumps into the compression and turns backwards. the side of the chain with the tensioner will be the pulling side for a brief moment and will push the tensioner in resulting in the chain not having the right tension.

The tensioner has a KTM partnumber.
77036003000 CHAIN ADJUSTER HYD. 05 the .05 indicating that this part was first used in 2005!
In other words: it is the same as installed in many other KTM models and it is not specifically made for Husaberg

Thats a lot of kms (30000) what has been done to the bikes maintenance wise?

nothing in particular.
two bikes entered service in December last year, the other two bikes somewhere around March I believe.
The statistics:
1st 450: 14436 km 375 hr
570: 12810 km 326 hr
the other 450s
8455 km 221 hr
7239 km 189 hr
totals: 42.940 kms! 1 111 hr More than I realized!

We do our oil changes typically after 5 days of riding, sometimes stretching it to 6 or even 7 days. (one day equals about 4.5 hr)
I use Putoline full synthetic oil because it is easy to get for me.

After initial frequent valve clearance checks I almost started to forget about it. The clearance becomes more, mainly on the exhaust valves. It turns out that the shims are worn away where they touch the valve stem.
Inlet stays within limit.

Mind you: with the old models we had lots of problems as my area can be extremely dusty. The intake valves would wear out very quickly.

Can't really think of anything negative.
In September last year I made myself buy a Yamaha, just to give the brand a chance to prove itself reliable.
The bike has performed well with just the regular wear-&-tear on the bearings and other parts. Clients love the bike but I have no affinity with it. Its without character.
Fuel consumption is highest though!
And checking the valves or even worst changing the shims needs careful planning and a lunch in between.

I took one of the newest 450 to Erzberg, Austria and had no problems with it, not with the battery power, not with running hot or otherwise. My mechanic Merlin (that's his first name, yes) felt more comfortable on an old 501. he depleted the battery, boiled the engine but I think it might be his riding style.

Man I love these bikes! In my humble opinion perhaps nearing the "PERFECT BIKE"