Engine Ice?

robp · Jun 16, 2011

Have been overheating on single track with my '05 FE550. Am considering using 'Engine Ice' coolant...

Anybody have any experience with this product?

http://www.engineice.com/

loph917 · Jun 16, 2011

i just changed my coolant over to engine ice. took just over 1/2 of the 1/2 gallon container. still need to figure out how to bleed the system.

DaleEO · Jun 16, 2011

I do not like engine Ice. See all that white stuff in the bottom of the container? That's silica, and it's not good. And a bike with EI will boil over much faster than a bike with regular anti freeze.

If you want to use regular anti freeze use prestone 50/50 pre mix.

Other wise go to Evans NPG-R coolant, it's a little expensive but it works great and have used it in both my 01 and 04 bikes. It runs at zero pressure as it has no water. You will not boil the bike over again.

If you can, find someone who is parting out an 06 bike, as I believe that was the first year of the new tank design wherein you can mount a fan, that is the best solution.

DuaneB · Jun 16, 2011

I tried it, didnt like it. It just burped out the same as regular antifreeze. I've switched to Evans NPG+... works great.

berger · Jun 16, 2011

robp said:
Have been overheating on single track with my '05 FE550. Am considering using 'Engine Ice' coolant...

Anybody have any experience with this product?

http://www.engineice.com/

I never saw an improvement with Engine Ice. As Dale stated, Evans NPG works well, but has it's pro's and con's. It will cure your boil over issues, but will not necessarily keep the engine cool (it's still going to get overtemp, just not boil over). again as Dale stated, installing an 06-08 fuel tank and shrouds will allow you to run an OEM fan kit, which is the way to go.
I had an 04 650 that would overheat in the desert single track. In the end I mounted 2 computer fans and ran Evans NPG. That fixed it. I used good quality high CFM fans. They held up much better than expected, about 2 years. The cost was only about $50-60 not counting the BOSS radiator guards they were mounted to. I'm not sure how well they would hold up in a wet climate, but in the desert there was no issue with them. I also installed an over flow tank. The coolant resevoir from a Yamaha Raptor ATV fit's nicely. The resevoirs seem readily available on ebay.
I have pictures in my gallery.

Johnf3 · Jun 16, 2011

The '06 tank by design will help with your overheating too. It allows much better flow through the radiator. Engine Ice is regular old poly-glycol antifreeze that they dyed purple (brrr cold). It is the same basic thing as "environmentally safe" anti freeze you can buy for your car.

Engine Ice does not contain silica--it is stated right in the web site FAQs-- but regardless it won't do anything to keep your scoot from overheating any more than regular AF. However, once it does overheat and overflow, your dog can drink it and it won't kill him. So there's a plus.

spencergt66 · Jun 16, 2011

+1 on the Evans NPG+ engine ice is a waste

DuaneB · Jun 17, 2011

You can scour hundreds of posts on this forum or any other automotive/motorcyle forum regarding Evans coolant... I think you will come to the conclusion that many of us have, and that is:

Evans coolant does not transfer heat as effectively as "normal" antifreeze or water with lubricant additives like water wetter.

But, on these bikes with no recovery tank and a very small coolant capacity, it is more important to KEEP your coolant in the system than to try to attain maximum heat transfer. Who cares how well your coolant transfers heat if it's in a puddle on the ground? I've monitored my engine temps using a Trail Tech Vapor with the temp sensor and I'm very happy with my engine temps so far.. I'm not in an extreme hot climate either. But the Evans is pretty much guaranteed to stay in the system.. that's all I need to know.

Another theory, which seems very plausible is that localized boiling at the cylinder head may be eliminated with Evans because of the much higher boiling points... theory is that the Evans will stay in place and remove heat evenly from the entire cooling surface where other coolants may have localized boiling where the liquid coolant is no longer removing heat.

All this adds up to my recommendation for Evans... whatever variety works in your climate. NPG+ for me.

DaleEO · Jun 17, 2011

DuaneB said:
You can scour hundreds of posts on this forum or any other automotive/motorcyle forum regarding Evans coolant... I think you will come to the conclusion that many of us have, and that is:

Evans coolant does not transfer heat as effectively as "normal" antifreeze or water with lubricant additives like water wetter.

But, on these bikes with no recovery tank and a very small coolant capacity, it is more important to KEEP your coolant in the system than to try to attain maximum heat transfer. Who cares how well your coolant transfers heat if it's in a puddle on the ground? I've monitored my engine temps using a Trail Tech Vapor with the temp sensor and I'm very happy with my engine temps so far.. I'm not in an extreme hot climate either. But the Evans is pretty much guaranteed to stay in the system.. that's all I need to know.

Another theory, which seems very plausible is that localized boiling at the cylinder head may be eliminated with Evans because of the much higher boiling points... theory is that the Evans will stay in place and remove heat evenly from the entire cooling surface where other coolants may have localized boiling where the liquid coolant is no longer removing heat.

All this adds up to my recommendation for Evans... whatever variety works in your climate. NPG+ for me.

Well said Duane!

I would like to make one correction, the stuff that is recommended for our bikes is the NPG-R, as it has viscosity improver for our small systems.

Dale Lineaweaver pointed out that he had seen engine temps that were 15 to 20F higher with Evans over distilled water with water wetter. And as you said Duane, better to have the system full and in use, than laying on the ground or in your skid plate.

And you also make an excellent point about it staying in contact with the metal surfaces, especially around the head where temps are highest.

robp · Jun 17, 2011

Thanks for all the informative replies....I returned the Engine Ice today and will hunt for some Evans.

Regards,
Rob

DaleEO · Jun 18, 2011

Rob,

When you get the Evans you really don't need the prep fluid for a bike radiator. Simply drain and flush your system with water. Then drain the system get as much of the water out as you can.

Fill the system with the Evans and run your bike on the stand with the rad cap off until the radiators are hot. You will see steam coming out of the rad cap tower, this is the water that remains in the system vaporizing out. Turn off the bike and let it cool.

Drain the system again through a paint filter into a clean dry container. You can re use this as flush again in the future.

Re fill your system with Evans to the proper level. Leave the radiator cap off and start your bike up and let it warm up until hot again. Put on the radiator cap and you are all set. Your system will now be zero pressure. But you have to use your head as this stuff will not boil until 400* F at 16psi.

As a final note Evans may send you a test strip that will check the amount of water that remains in your system. Go to their web site, there is a good info there.

bogeyman · Oct 31, 2011

Any one have experience with Motul's own brand coolant mix?

Link here: http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/140?f[application]=147&f[range]=21

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