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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: picture fordipsey
I think my old ducati repair shop will be able to do this for me, they do commercial and aerospace machining and welding.
http://www.nicholsmfg.com/
I think my old ducati repair shop will be able to do this for me, they do commercial and aerospace machining and welding.
http://www.nicholsmfg.com/
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2001
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- El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
Since the gear failed and not the key (quite common) I would simply clean up the crankshaft area, install a new key, insure the nut is not bottoming on the crankshaft (consequently insuring all the force is being applied to the new gear) and get on with it.
Truth be told using a broached key as opposed to the earlier tapered shaft is only for the sake of saving money. Keys are not and never have been designed to transmit load. They are a locating device. Such is why the failure when the drive nut is not absolutely tight against the gear.
Dale
PS
Thank you for the detailed pictures.
Truth be told using a broached key as opposed to the earlier tapered shaft is only for the sake of saving money. Keys are not and never have been designed to transmit load. They are a locating device. Such is why the failure when the drive nut is not absolutely tight against the gear.
Dale
PS
Thank you for the detailed pictures.
- Joined
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nsman said:
No.
I am saying it is a poor design to begin with and that insuring the nut applies force to the gear will "reduce" the instantaneous load on the key and broached area of the gear.
The primary drive truly should be of a tapered fit (pre 2001) or multi splined design.
For offroad with limited traction the present design is in my opinion borderline.
For a "hooked up" big bike it can be a problem.
Dale
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nsman said:
The gear most often explodes as the broached key-way is quite sharp inviting cracks.
Providing a radius to the broach and shot peening add a considerable safety factor to the gear.
For those with deep pockets and serious about racing their are some alternatives. Stitch welding with Tig, grinding a taper, etc.
Their is "GASP" Green Loctite. The later has not proved to be all that bad a deal. One must simply use a good quality puller and apply a bit of heat to the gear (via a heat gun) in order to remove.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Dale
have seen this type of distruction to drive train gears many times.with a tapered seat the force from the taper is transfered to the gearcogg.any part that uses a key for alighnment has two right angles at the top of the key groove this is the week point in the casting.i am curently haveing my shaft splined and a gear made to fit thus eliminateing the problem will let you how it goes. cost is about £120 pound in total hear in england inc re balanceing
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wesh155 said:
Late model engines no longer make use of a taper. The tension between the gear, shaft and nut is all that separates the load from the key.
Not good.
Early tapered fit had little if any trouble.
Dale
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
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- 16,703
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- Ely, England
that looks a beautiful job!
cross your fingers till it's running....
regards
Taffy
cross your fingers till it's running....
regards
Taffy
Thanks, the welder who did this is top notch (he welds rockets for a living). The rest is going together today & tomorrow - taking my time with it to ensure it's done right. Just picked up some more Loctite 271 for the main gear nut...so it does not come loose again and mess things up...
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