This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

End of season tear down

J

jockular

Joined Jun 2008
102 Posts | 0+
Argyll , Scotland
Hi all, i was thinking of some preventative work on the Berg this winter, mines an 08 Fe550 with 80hrs on it. does any one have any sensible pointers as to what to look for or what should be realistically replaced engine wise? i've already replaced the inlet valves and upgraded the valve springs, i really don't want any DNF's next season. i've also read the vast main bearing thread and its conclusions, but does this apply to the 08 bikes? or do you think that "don't fix it if it aint broke" may apply here, i've recently been encouraged by some of the other forum users claims of big hours. Any who any input would be greatly appreciated,
Cheers,
Jockular.
Ps my recent claims of nowt going wrong with the bike on the last enduro were slightly pre-emptive as, once the bike was washed i noticed that the rad cowel brackets had snapped of the frame, why did they make them so $hite when the rest of the frame is so over engineered.
 
Depends.....
Youve got 80 hrs on it now- does that mean your typical race/ride season is 80hrs??
If so, that would mean if you forego the chance now, your next oppurtunity would be at 160 hrs, or risk having something come apart somewhere between now and then.

I would definetly be replacing the intake rocker arm/roller (and should do the exhaust at the same time really), because I wouldnt expect one to last 160 hrs, if you are constantly turning the bike in the upper rpm range.

Even though theres guys out there getting 200 hr life out of them, theres still the odd report of failure around the 120-140 hr mark, so for the small cost involved the rocker arm would be a definite maintenence point, for me anyway.
 
disagree ausberg.

with the valve spring kit he can now go all the way. as a racer i would have a look at a race cam to create even less load. i think the rest will be good now.

can replace the standard ball race mains for the JR2s if you want to but i think you are good now to the magical 160. as a racer i would then spend on all the bearings. if just the occasional racer and the rest green laning i would take it to 200. keep the tappets set nice.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks for the imput fellas, think i might get me a lock washer for the crank eh? as i've just seen Ola's mishap.
 
Ola, i think i had read another thread that said people had used loctite and correct tork settings but the nuts still came loose, i think the lock tab maybe the way forward.
jockular.
 
When it comes to holding the crank nut in place, I can vouch for Loctite 272. Even with the nut heated up to break the bond, it still took considerable force to remove the nut. The only way the nut should come loose on a factory install is if they did not clean the crank/nut properly or simply didn't put much loctite on in the first place.

You do have to inspect the assembly carefully to make sure the nut pushes against the gear face only. The end of the key is barely below the gear face.
 

Similar threads

S
California 2011 FS570 soon to be track-tard! (a novel)
Replies
3
Views
2K
Slothfryk
S

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions