I’m new to this and wanted to say thanks for the add. I have owned my 2005 FE650E since it was new in early 05! Love it and have have nothing bad to say about it. The only thing I could complain about is having to replace my rear tires so often! Bike is super fast and revs like a two stroke pulls like a diesel truck and it very nimble. Lately it’s gotten hard to start. My e-starter barely turns it over and will only work if I use jumper cables from my truck to the bike. Kick starting is not an option as I have a bad left hip. Does anyone know of a high torc replacement starter or anything that could help? I have tried several batteries and none have really helped much. It’s always been an issue for this bike after the first year I owned it. I’d put it on the battery tender when not riding it but would still buy a new battery each year. After it was warm it would start with no problem but now it gives the e-starter trouble warm but fires right up with one kick or a bump start if it’s warmed up. I’m up for any advice.
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
The spring on the autodecompression device tends to lose tension and/or become unwound over time.
To check it you will need to remove the camshaft. The decomp should snap back into place when pretensioned properly. Taffmeisters sells a modified decomp spring which adds a bit more tension.
Valve adjustment is critical also. If the exhaust valve is too loose the decomp's effect is reduced.
Decompressing the cylinder is key to good e-starting. You can replace batteries and starters with higher spec units but if you are hitting a huge wall of compression everytime you hit that button nothing is ever going to happen.
I would consider replacing the decomp spring and the decomp weight itself as it is considered a wear item.
In the meantime you might be able to coax the beast to start by pulling in the manual decompression lever, spin up the motor with the e-start and then release the manual decomp.
Always keep the battery plugged into a good maintenance charger when not in use such as an Optimate charger.
To check it you will need to remove the camshaft. The decomp should snap back into place when pretensioned properly. Taffmeisters sells a modified decomp spring which adds a bit more tension.
Valve adjustment is critical also. If the exhaust valve is too loose the decomp's effect is reduced.
Decompressing the cylinder is key to good e-starting. You can replace batteries and starters with higher spec units but if you are hitting a huge wall of compression everytime you hit that button nothing is ever going to happen.
I would consider replacing the decomp spring and the decomp weight itself as it is considered a wear item.
In the meantime you might be able to coax the beast to start by pulling in the manual decompression lever, spin up the motor with the e-start and then release the manual decomp.
Always keep the battery plugged into a good maintenance charger when not in use such as an Optimate charger.
Hi All
I just got a -01 FE650 that has a very similar problem. The starter disengages after turning the engine over once or twice. Done the same stuff; charged the battery, new spark plug, new oil +filter, new fuel.
I've got it started a couple of times after 30-40min of kicking, it was a great workout!
It also backfires intermittently, but not out of the exhaust, but the backfiring look (and smells) like it's coming from the carburettor? It also kicks back something fierce occasionally, it seems to go hand in hand with the backfiring, but not always, sometimes there is just the occasional cheeky kickback.
I've read several different options to go for here, but OMG do I have to get the engine out before even riding it once? What a tease.
It's an old girl, so I expected a bit of work. Is it worth taking the engine out to check valve clearances/ camshafts etc?
I just got a -01 FE650 that has a very similar problem. The starter disengages after turning the engine over once or twice. Done the same stuff; charged the battery, new spark plug, new oil +filter, new fuel.
I've got it started a couple of times after 30-40min of kicking, it was a great workout!
It also backfires intermittently, but not out of the exhaust, but the backfiring look (and smells) like it's coming from the carburettor? It also kicks back something fierce occasionally, it seems to go hand in hand with the backfiring, but not always, sometimes there is just the occasional cheeky kickback.
I've read several different options to go for here, but OMG do I have to get the engine out before even riding it once? What a tease.
It's an old girl, so I expected a bit of work. Is it worth taking the engine out to check valve clearances/ camshafts etc?
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Hi Springarn, most 01 models (and early 02) were never able to start using the electric starter from the factory.
One of the big problems was that some of the internal gears tooth profile caused too much drag on the motor which could not be easily overcome. The tooth profile was changed on the late 02 motor.
Taffy has been able to get them to start after extensive mods without changing the internal gears.
As far as the backfiring goes, clean the carb and jets (especially the pilot jet).
Replace the carb Fuel Valve Assembly (aka the needle and seat) as these wear out quickly. As the carb is nearly 20 years old I would do a full rebuild. Taffmeisters has a “Easy Start Up Kit” and the Dellorto Gasket kit. These two will replace all of the worn parts and more.
Valve adjustment is critical and does not require engine removal.
Good chance the ignition stator is on its way out. This will cause backfiring and kick back too. Rewinding will fix it.
If it were me I would forget about trying to get it to e-start for the time being and focus my resources on making it kick start the best that it can. Then when you are more familiar with the motor you may want to change the cam and autodecompression device to the 04-08 version to begin trying to make the e-start work.
Make sure your kickstart activated decompression system is working properly. This system can usually be disconnected when updating to the 04-08 cam and decomp.
You are probably gathering by now that properly decompressing these beasts is critical to starting.
Don’t be tempted to run out and purchase a more powerful starter right away which seems to be everyone’s first inclination.
One of the big problems was that some of the internal gears tooth profile caused too much drag on the motor which could not be easily overcome. The tooth profile was changed on the late 02 motor.
Taffy has been able to get them to start after extensive mods without changing the internal gears.
As far as the backfiring goes, clean the carb and jets (especially the pilot jet).
Replace the carb Fuel Valve Assembly (aka the needle and seat) as these wear out quickly. As the carb is nearly 20 years old I would do a full rebuild. Taffmeisters has a “Easy Start Up Kit” and the Dellorto Gasket kit. These two will replace all of the worn parts and more.
Valve adjustment is critical and does not require engine removal.
Good chance the ignition stator is on its way out. This will cause backfiring and kick back too. Rewinding will fix it.
If it were me I would forget about trying to get it to e-start for the time being and focus my resources on making it kick start the best that it can. Then when you are more familiar with the motor you may want to change the cam and autodecompression device to the 04-08 version to begin trying to make the e-start work.
Make sure your kickstart activated decompression system is working properly. This system can usually be disconnected when updating to the 04-08 cam and decomp.
You are probably gathering by now that properly decompressing these beasts is critical to starting.
Don’t be tempted to run out and purchase a more powerful starter right away which seems to be everyone’s first inclination.
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