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E-Start problems still

aerotech11

aerotech11

Joined Sep 2014
29 Posts | 0+
Mesa AZ
2005 FE 450 still having e-start problems. Changed out autodecomp spring. New battery, new starter still will not start on the button. Engine turns when you push the button but only half way around then bogs down, turns then bogs down etc.... Out of ideas. Need help or it's going up for sale, cheap!!! Thanks
 
Can you easily kick start it? What I mean is can you push the kick starter fairly easily through the stroke?

When you installed the Decomp spring did you unwind it 3/4 turn or so before sliding the decomp in the cam so that it snaps back into the cam when moved? The idea is that the spring will hold the decomp in a open position (bump sticks out on the cam) and when the cam starts spinning fast the centrifugal force exerted on the decomp weight (device) over powers the spring and the decomp bump moves to a closed position (smooth on the cam) and therefore does not bleed off any compression.
 
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Thanks Husabutt for the response. Yes I can move the kickstarter through the stroke fairly easily and it will start when kicking. I believe I installed the spring correctly as per the manual I have. I spread the spring out while I installed it and then let it find it's common place when moved into position. Wasn't real hard on it though. Meaning I didn't put a lot of pressure on it when I spread it out a bit. I am kind of out of ideas at this point.
 
I have had starter solenoids go bad and give the impression that the battery is bad.

I would try a car battery with jumper cables directly to the starter bypassing the solenoid and see how it spins.

Check You Tube for videos on how to check for voltage drop at the starter and testing the starter solenoid.

If you can kick start it then the decomp was installed properly.
 
Thanks Husabutt I will try that. I did hook up some jumper cables off my truck to the leads off the bike battery but not directly to the starter motor.
 
you list both a 2004 and 05. if an 04, u know they had a prob with the torque limiter slipping.
if it just stops all sounds when turning over, that's different and unusual, but would indicate a loss of starter power. if the engine was binding with the starter at full power, i would expect the torque limiter to complain.
eric's prob right about the relay or connections to the relay.
 
Thanks Ned37. Well get back down here and help me figure this thing out. Ha ha ha. But if hi pu are ever back my way look me up. I will check the relay next as suggested. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I am sure I will be back real soon. Happy thanksgiving.
 
Have you looked at the wiring, like the push button itself.

You say you push half way down and it tries, but all the way and nothing, could be a crap starter button.

Have you put a multimeter on the battery and tried to start it, see the voltage with the battery doing nothing, and the level of drop when the starter is engaged, if little drop, its a wiring problem upstream of the battery, if a large drop, 2v or so, its a issue downstream, could be mechanical, could simply be wiring not up to scratch.

Check connections are tight, in good clean order, bit of lanolin spray is good.

I have seen "flat" batterys, all that was needed was a tightening of the positive terminal at the starter, worth looking.
 
The button checks out good and the wiring is all tight. Have not yet put a multi-meter on it to check voltage drop. Did throw my buddies starter on it from a 2001 FE 550 and did the same thing. His was a known good starter though I can rule that out. Battery is new also. Thanks to all who gave input and I will post my results from the voltage check.
 
Watch out when using a car battery. I have fried a regulator doing that. (Different bike)

What happens when you pull the decomp in when your trying to start it?
 
I doubt that the decomp is set right.

when the decomp is on the cam, set the shaft underneath the cam. pull the weight downwards and make the decomp weight do a 'wallbars sit-up'. this is the most effective way of making sure the decomp is set right. it must PING up.

the second thing, is to set the tappets right. you must be able to get hold of them and tap them up and down. someone should be able to stand 2m away and hear the 'tick-tick' of the tappets if you did morse code.

if you can hear that noise more than 2m = too loose and the decomp doesn't work
if you can't hear it 2m away then the tappets are too tight and that means leak-down past the valves.

is there any chance that you have ripped the guts out of the new battery? did you use is a lot before you did decomp changes and rip its guts out?

did you ever remove the clutch basket yourself?
and you did remove the cam right?

regards

Taffy
 

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