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****....drain plug

W

whapworth

Joined Dec 2015
38 Posts | 6+
new york
2011 570FE

i just went to do an oil change and started talking the drain plug out...a minute later i realize i was still trying to remove the plug....stripped.

Any advice on next steps? need to first figure out how to get the bolt out, then been reading about helicoils, etc. hoping i don't have to remove the motor, but obviously will if necessary.

have seen a few posts, but not positive on which direction to head...any help / advice greatly appreciated
 
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Tough one. Cant get some kind of tool there to twist it?
Drill and get a reverse thread and Bolt?
Buy new engine and gimme yours.
Weld is no fun around oil but it works as long as it dont catch fire.
Next time. You dont have to screw that hard. Usualy works with 12-15nm for that one
 
thanks yeah, i don't even think i had it torqued too much, thinking back i think it cross threaded going in.

feck
 
1010e638b3fa71d1e0efdb8d6faa78b8.jpg
 
Being as its already stripped and just spinning in there. I would probably get a vice grip on there and if pulling while unscrewing doesnt work then hook the vice grip up to a slide hammer.(Auto Body puller type) I wouldnt hammer it back too hard though. Just tap it enough to get it to start threading out.
Then use heli coil to repair.

pollo
 
thanks all. with some patience and a little leverage from a flat head i got it out. looks like there might have been a heli coil in there from last owner. thinking i'll go with a time sert. just bummed as it looks like i need to pull the engine as space is too small to get a direct line. unless dropping the engine is an option /faster? appreciate any thoughts
 
For next time if the head of the bolt is stripped. Use a 1/2" 6 point socket you'll have to tap it on with a hammer. It Works on 13mm heads. It hasn't fail Me yet.
 
Ya here you can't rush anything, it's not difficult to fix it but you will need patience and be precise. First you need room to drill exactly straight. If you see old helicoil it must be removed, try good quality pick, really small flat screwdriver or whatever might get at it. If you have torches and are good with them then with smallest tip you can heat coil and take it out like a wire glowing red hot-but need experience to do this. There are different types of coils- I would probably use standard old fashion regular coil. If there is not much aluminium "meat" in there then next size up but fine thread is the way to go, or coil that looks like pipe threaded inside and outside- this one I would install on green bearing setting compound, its something like threadlock but much better. Or metal epoxy- this way insert is installed secure and sealled to the case. Next use bolt with copper washer and you done. Maybe it would be enough to just loosen tbe engine with out taking it right out?
 
Idea????
Re tap with next size up and insert a new bolt. Better than heli-coil if you have the room.
 
whapworth said:
unfortunately don't think i can get a tap in there without pulling motor :(
Click to expand...

I was under the impression Helicoil was being used, just thinking less risk of a leak re tapping over helicoil?

Hope you get it fixed as nothing worse than a oil issue :(
 
Given the thread has already been retapped to suit the helicoil, why not just remove existing helicoil and replace ?

1. Pick out / unwind existing helicoil
2.clean thread, (with tooth brush + brake cleaner/ contact cleaner)
3.Prime thread (loctite primer given oil), and apply loctite 620 *
4. Fit new Helicoil - Just need to work out whether you need 1D or 1.5D for length ?
5. Buy a torque wrench for the last owner / mech / sump plug.

It'll easily be good for as long as you own the bike.

Alternate: Leave as is, and change maintenance policy to "oil serviced for life"....

*Loctite 620 (230 deg C + high strength) or 680 (150 deg C + very high strength)- (I'd use 620 for the additional temp buffer)
 
Last edited:
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thank you all for the awesome input. awesome community. think i'm just going to pull it and put a time sert in which a few of my friends swear by over helicoils. will post some shots when i get down into it
 
Yes you have to either pull the motor or at least disconnect nearly everything and tilt it in the frame to give yourself a straight shot at the drain. Thats what I did.

Also good choice on time sert, thats what I used too. It is superior to helicoil.
 
whapworth said:
unfortunately don't think i can get a tap in there without pulling motor :(
Click to expand...

Well what if you laid the bike over on it's side? Then you could gain access to the drain plug I would think. I've changed out clutches laying them on the side and heck when I crash Husabergs always seem to like to lay really flat on the ground so I have to struggle to get them up ;)
 
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