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Doh! Thats why there wasn't any spark!

Joined May 2007
36 Posts | 0+
North Hollywood, CA, United States
This will probably sound incredibly elementary for all of you. I wasn't getting any spark and after reading all of the horror stories on here about SEM failures ('02 650) I figured I had a bad stator. I tested it (thanks to Sparks for the numbers!) and found that it was in spec and began scratching my head. I went through the entire wiring harness and greased all of the connections and made sure that the wires looked the same as the wiring diagram. Everything checked out. Then I figured that I wasn't kicking hard enough. Got back on the thing and kicked my heart out to no avail. I realized at that point that I was trying to ground the spark plug on the rocker cover instead of the cylinder! Doh! I think that the sealant from the rocker cover to the head prevents the ground from occurring. Got plenty of spark now! Only got it to lite for a second though (damn Del Lorto's!).
 
Doh! I think that the sealant from the rocker cover to the head prevents the ground from occurring
uh...i don't think so unless you 're using a whole tube of the stuff and coating the bolts, too. that bike doesn't lend itself well to seeing a spark in daylite without a helper and a strong kick (right darrin?) and even then its not obvious all the time.
now that you've established the fire part of the equation, make sure all else is in spec...valve adj, ignition timing, jetting (including ckg for the usual needle/needle jet wear), carb slide idle position (too low or too high will give a non start condition). is this nonstarting thing something new? give us some history.
 
The rocker cover is made of aluminum, which is not the best conductive material around. And you might be right about the sealant.

You need to ground it on a steel (or iron) part like the cylinder cover.

You can find the adjustable spark tester at places like Autozone.
 
ned37 said:
Doh! I think that the sealant from the rocker cover to the head prevents the ground from occurring
uh...i don't think so unless you 're using a whole tube of the stuff and coating the bolts, too. that bike doesn't lend itself well to seeing a spark in daylite without a helper and a strong kick (right darrin?) and even then its not obvious all the time.
now that you've established the fire part of the equation, make sure all else is in spec...valve adj, ignition timing, jetting (including ckg for the usual needle/needle jet wear), carb slide idle position (too low or too high will give a non start condition). is this nonstarting thing something new? give us some history.

Thanks for the info. I didn't coat the bolts in Hondabond however! I believe Le Frog is right in that the Al. just doesn't conduct as well as the cylinder wall. The last time this bike was run was 3 years ago and was jetted for Vegas. It currently resides at 7,000 feet in Park City so I'm not too sure it will even start, knowing how finiky these Del Lorto carbs are. I tore the carb down and thoroughly cleaned and inspected it. Looks good. Valves are in adjustment. It wouldn't hurt if I went to the gym and beefed up my legs to kick the thing hard enough! I've also been reading about the CBR starter retrofit. For now the (re)starter doesn't work, but the battery is dead anyway (won't take a charge). I wish the battery wasn't buried! I will get this thing to run yet!
 
racer187x said:
ned37 said:
Doh! I think that the sealant from the rocker cover to the head prevents the ground from occurring
uh...i don't think so unless you 're using a whole tube of the stuff and coating the bolts, too. that bike doesn't lend itself well to seeing a spark in daylite without a helper and a strong kick (right darrin?) and even then its not obvious all the time.
now that you've established the fire part of the equation, make sure all else is in spec...valve adj, ignition timing, jetting (including ckg for the usual needle/needle jet wear), carb slide idle position (too low or too high will give a non start condition). is this nonstarting thing something new? give us some history.

Thanks for the info. I didn't coat the bolts in Hondabond however! I believe Le Frog is right in that the Al. just doesn't conduct as well as the cylinder wall. The last time this bike was run was 3 years ago and was jetted for Vegas. It currently resides at 7,000 feet in Park City so I'm not too sure it will even start, knowing how finiky these Del Lorto carbs are. I tore the carb down and thoroughly cleaned and inspected it. Looks good. Valves are in adjustment. It wouldn't hurt if I went to the gym and beefed up my legs to kick the thing hard enough! I've also been reading about the CBR starter retrofit. For now the (re)starter doesn't work, but the battery is dead anyway (won't take a charge). I wish the battery wasn't buried! I will get this thing to run yet!


I have found with my 2002 650 that it is not the force of the kick that matters ( altough you do have to give a good kick) but making sure you have the full range of the kick. What I mean by this is, when you push it past compression, let the kick return fully and then give it a good kick, does the trick every time with my bike, hope this makes sense.

My starting procedure is, kick it until I find compression, use decompressor thingie to let the piston go just past this point, let the kickstart return fully until I hear a 'klick' then 2 x throttle, and then kick it, start's up everytime when doing this. If i deviate from this technique I'm fu$^µd and it will not start. No matter what I tried, when I rebuild this engine I tried for hours and hours to get it started, but it did not run until I checked this site for the proper starting technique, after usinig the right technique it starts up right away even with my jetting way off.
 
the Al. just doesn't conduct as well as the cylinder wall
as taffy is wont to say "WTF?" good luck finding anything non aluminum except a bolt head on the outside of the engine that your sparkplug will reach! and when did aluminum stop being a good conductor? maybe thats only in france :roll:
after playing with another '02 650 i agree with BB about the starting teknic with the exception that i like to keep the kicker low, just off the footpeg to find tdc. i like to have tdc bind it up about 5:00 or about 3" from the footpeg. use the handlebar comp release and push it to the footpeg, which helps you find a consistent starting spot, then all the way up and kick it like you mean it. since you have a dellorto you don't need to pump the carb. if its cold, i always first use the comp release and kick it thru about 5-10 times on choke to get a good fuel prime before going thru the start drill.
 
Jetting may well be the issue as well. I had an 02 550 jetted for 1000-1500 feet. If I took it to 7700ft it would not start under any circumstance.
 
berger said:
Jetting may well be the issue as well. I had an 02 550 jetted for 1000-1500 feet. If I took it to 7700ft it would not start under any circumstance.

The jetting on my 501 is an anomaly. It starts in phoenix, it starts in sedona, it starts in flag, it starts on the peaks. It runs well everywhere. Maybe it's God's old bike... or the Devil's? :evil:
 
The jetting on my 501 is an anomaly. It starts in phoenix, it starts in sedona, it starts in flag, it starts on the peaks. It runs well everywhere. Maybe it's God's old bike... or the Devil's? Evil or Very Mad
ya know, dom, we always wondered those same things about the po. :twisted:

but after your stint on the sx, we know its just YOUR LEG. THAT BIKE WOULDN'T DARE NOT START ON THE BUTTON.
 
First off...

Hello all....

ok so:

Alternator cover on my bike is powder coated. That is pretty good insulation so I assume that was your problem. Aluminium is right next to silver and copper when it comes to conductivity. (trust me i work with the stuff)
 
Komatias,

Welcome to the UHE, good comment about the plastic coating, I also rewind motoplat ignition systems and alot of restorers have there frames plastic coated, and on assembly when refitting the motor try not to chip off any coating but they are left with a perfectly insulated engine from the frame hence no Spark, no earth return, by doing the same with the Husaberg ignition cover will give the same out come.
Regarding aluminiun and copper some of the electric motor windings were of Aluminium larger in diameter due to it's internal resistance but more cost effective.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Komatias said:
First off...

Hello all....

ok so:

Alternator cover on my bike is powder coated. That is pretty good insulation so I assume that was your problem. Aluminium is right next to silver and copper when it comes to conductivity. (trust me i work with the stuff)

Yes, I don't know why I wrote that about Aluminum. Go figure. Ned, stop. The laws of physics don't stop at borders, except in that State (Indiana?) where they decided that PI was equal to 3 even so as not to make it too complicated for the kids.

Just that my plug doesn't spark when I ground it on the cover either but very well on the cylinder. I don't know why, really, because even with the sealant, the steel bolts would allow electricity to pass. I will use my multi tester and see how many ohms I get between the POS and different spots that the plug can be grounded to and find out which is the best one.
 
Hi all, here is a sure fire (pun intended) way to check for spark. Grab a good buddy or the nearest kid to help you out. Leave the spark plug in the head but remove the cap. Place a properly sized screw driver into the plug cap. Have your buddy or kid grab the shank of the screw driver with there left hand, with there right hand grab the top of the plug. Kick the bike over. If your buddy starts cursing like a drunken sailor or the kid starts crying, then you have spark. If your buddy starts ***** in that he wants a beer or the kid wants to go play a video game then no spark. This should eliminate any confusion as to where to ground the plug or the use of any fussy multi-meters. Back to under my rock.
 
I have done that to unsuspecting friends several times (and had it done to me, that's how I learned it!), be warned, that it can only be done once per person of average intelligence. It is fun, but a guy finds himself running out of hellp as word gets out....... but its worth it!!!!!!
 
LeFrog said:
Yes, I don't know why I wrote that about Aluminum. Go figure. Ned, stop. The laws of physics don't stop at borders, except in that State (Indiana?) where they decided that PI was equal to 3 even so as not to make it too complicated for the kids.

Hey there....not all of us from Indiana are idiots. Slow maybe, hard headed sure....but not idiots. :lol:

Darrin
 

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