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Died at 35 mph, won't restart

Joined Aug 2011
532 Posts | 24+
Northern Nevada
Need a little help.
I've got a 2011 FE570S. I've solved the hot fuel problem (wrapped the exhaust near the fuel tank and installed reflective material to the underside of the tank), replaced the factory fuel pump with the improved CA Cycleworks pump, have the FMF Factory 4.1 silencer, have removed all the smog gear, and the dealer flashed the "performance" map. The bike runs like a dream.

But yesterday while running down a flat dirt road at 35 mph in 5th gear (loafing along, really), the motor quit and would not restart. I pushed it home 4 miles. Today it won't start, either. All fuses okay. I doubt that it's the fuel pump because the CA Cycleworks pump has only 6 hours on it, and I can hear it running when I turn the key. FI light stays illuminated for 1 second after turning the key. Fuel pump shuts off just after the FI light turns off.

What have I got? I love the bike, but it's stranded me repeatedly. I thought I had the bugs worked out with the fuel pump, tank, and exhaust mods, but here we go again. Worse, I have only basic tools with me and am 2000 miles from my shop. I don't even have a multimeter at my disposal.

Can somebody please help me diagnose this problem? The nearest Husaberg/KTM dealer is 200 miles away.
 
1. Make sure the battery cables are tight - even a little bit loose seems to cause problems. 2. Check the wires under the gas tank to see if any of them have lost their insulation and are grounding. When removing and replacing the tank, it is very easy to put a wire in a slightly wrong place. 3. Let us know what fixes the problem! Best Wishes!
 
Thanks, Jroble.
Is the one second illumination of the FI light normal, do you know?
 
Yes mate the one second light illumination is normal.
I was tooling along at the same speed once and all of a sudden, mooooooooort bang cough moooooooooorrrt, the flywheel woodruff key had sheared. It still gave me spark but out of time.

Check for spark first.

If you have spark, check for injector firing. You need to unplug the TPS on the side of the throttlebody, ( if the ecu senses the tps is open while cranking then it will not fire the injector) crank the motor with the throttle wide open and you can see the injector pulsing fuel into the inlet tract.
 
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Thanks very much for the advice from Oz! I'll check it out.
 
2011 Husaberg FS 570

Hi new here looking to buy a 2011 Husaberg FS 570
the problem described in this thread is it common.

What are your thoughts about this bike- its new non current machine.
Have a wr but looking for a new ride thanks very much
 
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I had the same problem a while back on my '09 FE570. My battery terminal rubbed against a wire and eventually it rubbed through. It died just after landing a jump. It hit the ground and died immediately. It cranked, but would not start. It could be something very simple.

Rick
 
I have had similar issues, I recently bought an 09 fe450, and while cruising along about 90km/h, the bike started to splutter then it died, it started again and I rode home with the bike spluttering and me feeling rather disappointed with my purchase. I went through the bike and found a few corroded plugs and a bad earth....so I cleaned, then bbrrrappp, all sweet. have a look at the plugs going to the voltage regulator, they were the ones that gave me curry
 
I finally figured it out. I had installed a California Cycleworks fuel pump because the factory fuel pump was problematic. The hose that came with the California Cycleworks fuel pump was the problem. It comes with two hoses, actually. One is very short and for a different model (apparently), and the other is the correct length. It's also a slightly different diameter, and it's something that you can't readily see. Its ID is a tiny bit larger, which makes assembly real handy. It also makes the unit prone to blowing the hose off the fuel pump nipple, which isn't handy.

Here's the deal. The high pressure fuel line that is appropriate for use on these fuel pumps (don't bother looking an auto parts store, and it won't be hanging on a peg in your motorcycle shop either) is really quite stiff. No matter how tightly I tightened the clamp (special clamps for EFI, btw), the fuel pump blew the hose off the nipple. Funny thing: the too-short hose has a slightly smaller ID than the longer hose. I bought 5/16" 220 PSI fuel line, and it fits tighter on the nipple than the longer hose that came with the California Cycleworks fuel pump. It oughta work!

Now, here's my problem. I recall reading somewhere that there is a trick/procedure for priming the fuel pump. And, of course, I can't remember what it is. Can somebody remind me, please?
 
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Now, here's my problem. I recall reading somewhere that there is a trick/procedure for priming the fuel pump. And, of course, I can't remember what it is. Can somebody remind me, please?

Thanks for the info!

You're not talking about the little "stab/*** the starter button" procedure? It doesn't necessarily start the bike - not if you do it fast enough - but it closes a circuit that starts the fuel pump priming...?
 
Tourist, I only remember that there is a trick to it. Can't remember what the trick actually is, though. (It's not the age, it's the mileage.)

What's this "stab/***" thing you're talking about?
 
It's just that :) Just poke the starter button briefly and the pump primes, you can hear it. The "trick" is that the pump starts and primes even with a push of the starter button that's too short to start the bike. That's all I know :)
 
On my bike the pump will run when you turn the key whether you touch the start button or not. So I hit the key and let the pump cycle on and off. Repeated that a couple of times, and when I hit the starter she started right up.

Now I have to see if I can remember how to ride the thing!
 
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(For future reference for others who find this thread, some of the bikes don't have ignition keys - my EU '10 570 doesn't - then the button-stabbing can be applicable :) )
 
Yep, a quick push/stab at the start button will do it.

Or if you bridge #5 and #6 on the XC1 connector the electrical system will stay online. Good to see flash codes and find electrical problems. It's the white unused connector next to the fuse-box.
 
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