Did a torsion spring come off a post?

When I removed the left side cover on my '06 fe550e, I heard a snapping noise - like a torsion spring slipped off its stop.
I can see some large torsion springs behind the clutch basket but everything "seems" fine. I'd rather not remove the clutch, but I will if I have to.

Does anyone have a clue as to what may have happened? My plan is/was to replace the timing chain when it arrives and get back to the trails before it snows. I don't want to put the cover back on until I know what happened and can resolve it.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thank you for the tip. Hopefully, I won't have to remove the clutch to get to the spring.

Clearly, the clutch needs to be removed to re-do or check the spring, which I don't think is a big deal from what I've gathered watching videos.
The kickstart works right now, but I figure I'd better get a better look before reinstalling the side case. Besides, I can measure/inspect the clutch plates while I'm at it.

I appreciate your feedback.

OK, While the kickstart did turn the engine over, I could feel a bit of drag. My first thought was that it was due to the removed side case and, therefore, no supporting bearings on several shafts. I removed the clutch assembly, and sure enough, the kickstart was not where it was supposed to be - it is now back in place, and the engine turns over smoothly.

While I had the clutch out, I measured the steel plates and friction discs. The plates are spot-on at 1mm, and the discs are within tolerance at 1.96 mm (new is 2mm).

Taffy, I'm a retired old fart waiting for parts to arrive from a good man who has diligently collected them but lives on the moon.
Once the bike runs, I'll have something to do besides ask questions - unless it's snowing by then.

I write my questions (and some answers) here to add to the forum information. It may help other Berg owners keep their machines alive. Heck, sometimes I even repeat myself on the Thumpertalk site. Besides, I'm also waiting for a tool to hold the clutch while I torque the nut back down. I removed it with a vice-grip-type chain wrench, but it was "iffy" at best.


Here's one you haven't answered: If I have six clicks left on the cam chain tensioner rod (after it has tensioned the chain + 1 click), does the cam chain need to be replaced? It may even be stock, as I can find no master link. I believe the engine has around 350 hours on it. The chain itself looks brand new and has very little side flex. As you know, a new chain is on the way, but I can save it for later if this one is good.

Cheers

Taffy, thanks a bunch for your insight. I will let you know how many clicks I get after installing the new chain. If it is zero clicks, that long, tiny spring is going to be tough to stuff in.
When you mention "fat blade," do you mean the plastic chain guide is fatter than previous models or the tensioner ratchet blade?