Definative main bearing thread

[Finnmats]

Thanks bushmechanic!

Very good thread for learning everything you didn't want to know about your main bearings!

However; yes I had some flakes on the magnet... I have a dial gauge, so I will check the play. It starts to feel that I need to split the engine and (at least) have the main bearings changed. I have the repairs manual, but I haven't opened up a Husaberg before. The KTM RFS I have experience with, though. I guess you know what the MINIMUM things you need to change when splitting the cases, since you obviously have done it a few times... Is there a guiding "shopping list" anywhere around?

Mats

 

[Finnmats]

Update: axial clearance 0,4mm (measured with gauge and pushing in and out by hand onky). Radial clerance 0,04-0,05 (on flywheel, grabbing it by hand up & down). What I noticed now is that the chain tensioner is fully out and the chain still feels a bit loose...?? Will do another post on that, since it's off topic.

Mats

 

[spanner]

Great work Bushie,

Wonder if the LH case can benefit from some JB weld.
There is a fair bit of webbing around the main bearing
housing that could be easily filled in.

Looking at using a nj2206 almost looks as if it was made for it.

 

[bushmechanic]

yes the 20mm wide roller is a straight drop in after you chuck out the counterbalancer

never thought of epoxy filling in those webs ,, the 02 cases I have are beefier around the mains. could be a good idea.. easy to do.

Ive always thought the weak point is the thin machined bit providing clearance for the cam chain sprocket near the 6905 bearing

Ive got my 2 timken 22206 spherical rollers waiting for a home ... need to get some thickwall tubing for the sleeves next.

 

[bushmechanic]

Update: axial clearance 0,4mm (measured with gauge and pushing in and out by hand onky). Radial clerance 0,04-0,05 (on flywheel, grabbing it by hand up & down). What I noticed now is that the chain tensioner is fully out and the chain still feels a bit loose...?? Will do another post on that, since it's off topic.

Mats

0.4mm is a bit tight, the radial play is good though.

if you aim for 0.7-0.8mm axial play its easier to get what you're hoping for

 

[spanner]

Bushie,
"yes the 20mm wide roller is a straight drop in after you chuck out the counterbalancer"

Looks to be enough material to just bore 4mm deeper.
Although it would be nice to have the bearing closer to the flywheel, don`t
discount the leverage of the primary gear against the clutch basket
gear.


Performance Metals
Might have some tube for your bearings.

 

[bushmechanic]

nice link, thanks Spanner

I think if we just bore 4mm deeper without a sleeve to spread the axial loading then the case will be too weak to take any axial load

the clutch loading is a good point as well though, spanner the husaberg engineering ninja :ninja:

 

[Big Berg]

Has anyone tried their bullet proof main bearing conversion?

New Page 1

 

[bushmechanic]

contiman runs the JBS hardened steel sleeves and 22206 spherical rollers

82mm crank 105mm bore

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/11677-jbs-700-kit-welded-80mm-crank.html

I run one 22206 on the drive side in a much simpler sleeve

the 02 im working on will have one each side, it is a great idea IMHO

 

[spanner]

Hi Bushie,

I agree removing any material from the main bearing area will reduce
its strength.
Boring 4mm deeper leaves around 1.5mm thickness, I think, surly not
enough.
Might be able to reinforce that area with a turned aluminum
ring screwed around it perimeter to the case the ring could also
hold the seal.

Like your idea of extra oil supply to the LH main bearing.
Hard to see how it gets any oil hidden behind the
counterbalancer bearings

PS the Carrillo is back in its box going to run the std rod

 

[delta]

Bushmechanic I send You PM.

I have husaberg FE 550 2007 and I’m looking for informations.

On husaberg site I found service manual for 2005-2007:
HUSABERG Pure Enduro - Older Documents
but when I open this file It’s manual for 2004-2005.

I need informations which washer I need do put on crankshaft between balancer and bearing. In older berg service manual say it must be 0,2mm, but in older berg was other balancer with 2 bearings, in 2007 balancer have one bearing and in parts manual there is three washers to choose 0,10, 0,20, 0,30mm.

Or maybe someone have service manual to bergs 2007?

 

[bushmechanic]

hi Delta

sorry about that I wrote a reply but now i see it is not showing up in "sent"

I have used the service manual for 04-05 which appears to be the same as the one you found and also for 04 as listed in here to work on my 08 650

my 2008 650 and 2006 550 i have use 0.2mm thick washers, I don't think that it matters which bearing you have as long as there is some clearance between the counterbalancer and the inner race of the NJ206 mainbearing.

that is: just make sure the counterbalancer and bearings can't make contact with anything ... try the 0.2mm shim that's what I found installed in my 08.


http://husaberg.org/service-manuals...-manual-repair-manual-spare-parts-manual.html

2005 is the same

http://husaberg.org/attachments/ser...2005-workshop-manual-husaberg_2005_repair.pdf

2005 from a link found by Sgomes, thanks Steve!

Press the inner ball bearing (1) on the balance weight
(2) onto the crankshaft with a suitable pipe
– Only press on the inner ring. Press on the balance
weight with the outer ball bearing (3) – only press on
the inner ring.
– Slide the spacing washer (4) {or 81 above} (0.2 mm) onto the
crankshaft.
– Heat the special tool 584.29.037.037 with the new
bearing inner ring (5) on a hotplate to approx. 150° C
and immediately slide onto the crankshaft (see page D4).
– Strike on the inner ring with a suitable pipe and allow
to cool.
CAUTION: never clamp the crankshaft with the
crankshaft journal and strike on the inner ring
since this will press the crankshaft webs
together and the crankshaft can no longer be
used.
– Turn the crankshaft over and slide both spacing
washers (6) (0.1 and 0.15 mm) onto the crankshaft.
– Mount a new inner ring of the other crankshaft bearing
(7) as described above.
– Measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft after you
replace the inner rings.

 

[delta]

Ok, I understand, thank You very much Bush.

 

[spanner]

Bored 4mm deeper for NJ 2206.

Support plate added.

Crank pin will be laser welded to flywheel he can penetrate 3mm deep + 1mm chamfer. 4mm total weld.

Cheers spanner

 

[bushmechanic]

awesome Spanner!

my cases are in the mill

 

[bushmechanic]

boring cases to take bigger mains in a sleeve, thought I should do that first to check where the crank/flywheel is really going to end up for the new ignition cover

 

[spanner]

Hi Bushie

What diameter do you bore the case out to?

Cheers spanner

 

[bushmechanic]

this is what the ignition side is supposed to measure after machining

will do more pics with the details later

 

[bushmechanic]

drive side

drilling oil pressure gallery to the drive main

the old cases don't have the drip feed to the RHS main so I drilled one, will make a dam to catch more oil

decide to install a second piston

sleeves

RHS main bore with sleeve

LHS main with 1mm diam jet

3.5 thou interference fit between the cases and the sleeves

need to go back in the mill and be final sized to a 2 thou interference fit with the bearings.

also re machining the oil pump cavity to take the 15mm wide ktm atv rotor

 

[spanner]

Nice work Bushie