Decompressor or Starter?

Boris, it is not quite hard to make these bikes start cold on the starter. If it restarts easily on the button, consider yourself lucky.

Issue is covered in many places and there are few things one can do to make it start cold on the button.

It's nothing to do with the starter.

Did you try pulling the decomp lever?

My 01 will never start cold on the button, I have stopped making that wish a long time ago.

Warm, it restarts in one kick.

Might want to inspect/replace the Gear Wheel Torque Limiter (aka Starter Clutch). Different model years sometimes had different issues with this component.

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... eel+torque

The starter slipping and not pushing past the compression stroke also sometimes an issue when the exhaust valve gap is not within spec.

I have the same bike, and had the same problem with the same amount of hours.... The problem is the automatic decompression lobe; it's simply not "large" or "high" enough to engage the decompressor. It's not too difficult to weld some material on and get it to the right height. After that repair my bike always starts, cold or warm, off the button. Also have a close look at the choke cable, mine had way to much free play, that didn't help much in a cold start situation! Now my bike has run for more then 270 hr's and it's still working good!
Good luck!!!

Cheesehead said:

I.... The problem is the automatic decompression lobe; it's simply not "large" or "high" enough to engage the decompressor. It's not too difficult to weld some material on and get it to the right height....!

Click to expand...

i have experienced this 1st hand. i believe this to be the true problem.
i dont think welding a blob is the best thing to do though.
at worst, the blob falls off into the runnung engine. ouch.
what about buying a new decomp ramp/bump/lobe/actuator/whateveryoucallit?
tuts

tuts said:

Cheesehead said:

I.... The problem is the automatic decompression lobe; it's simply not "large" or "high" enough to engage the decompressor. It's not too difficult to weld some material on and get it to the right height....!

Click to expand...

i have experienced this 1st hand. i believe this to be the true problem.
i dont think welding a blob is the best thing to do though.
at worst, the blob falls off into the runnung engine. ouch.
what about buying a new decomp ramp/bump/lobe/actuator/whateveryoucallit?
tuts

Click to expand...

The blob weld cure was common on the -01-03 bergs. many had good luck but as tuts said it could fall off so you better be a good welder or take it to a good machine shop and have them do the weld and grind. There was some info in the old gallerys and maybe in the doc. I think maybe Groc had a pic or maybe it was someone else.

I had a 01 and Froggy is right NEVER start cold on the button but when I had a broken starter I removed the auto decomp and just used the one on the clutch lever and it was a 2 kick bike cold and one hot.

Valve adjustment is critical to making the decomp work. too much clearance and it dont open the valve and you get zero compression release.

Remove bodywork, valve inspection covers, and ignition cover. Turn the engine with a breaker bar clockwise from right side til you see the intake valves open and close. Remove the spark plug and insert a long skinny phillips screwdriver and slowly turn the engine til you feel the piston at the top. Put a mark on the engine and flywheel for reference of TDC. Adjust the valves here to .004-.005 inch. Bend the tips of the feeler gauge to a 90 to help install it. Be careful here as when the screw is lightly turned onto the feeler gauge it doesn't always stay there when the lock nut is tightened, causing tight settings. I ground 2 flats onto a 10mm socket that a 9/16 wrench fits. I hold the lock nut with a 90 degree screwdriver through the socket and tighten the socket with the 9/16 on the flats I ground. Nothing moves that way. After adjusting the valves, turn the engine 1 1/2 turns so piston is at bottom just before compression. Slowly turn the engine now and watch for the exhaust valve to open slightly ( you will be approx half way to TDC) . This is the auto decompressor opening the valve. Move the engine back and forth til you have the valve opened to the maximum position by the decompressor. Should have opened the valve around .030. Note where the exhaust valve adjuster screws are, and loosen them until the pressure is off the screws and the valve has closen. Should have had to back the screws off around 1 turn. If you can't see the valve open slightly or it opens but to close the valve only takes 1/4 turn or so, install a new 03 decompressor. Check to see that it is operating ok after readjusting the exhaust valves and it should start on the E Button. If still not ok, I guess the weld blob might be in order, but a new decompressor fixed mine.
dan

As far as I know my "blob" is still holding strong.... Yes it's maybe better to buy a new one, I got some assistance from my dealer who did a great job obviously, so I had a form of guaranty.
Anyway, new or blobbed, this is the cure!