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Decomp mech, best way to repair it?

S

Scully

Joined Jul 2003
330 Posts | 0+
Nth Tasmania ( Australia )
As you can see from the "starters & stators" I need to address this really soon. What have you others done to create a bigger lift when electrically starting? Replace the mech or weld a dab on the cam? Interested to see what others have done?
Thanks,
 
Hi Scully,
Manufacturing tolerances being what they are I most often can find an appropriate OEM unit for most any application. I have also had success with limiting the de-comp closing travel and dressing a radius to the opening edge.

Hope this helps.
Kind Regards,
Dale
 
LINEAWEAVER said:
Hi Scully,
Manufacturing tolerances being what they are I most often can find an appropriate OEM unit for most any application. I have also had success with limiting the de-comp closing travel and dressing a radius to the opening edge.

Hope this helps.
Kind Regards,
Dale
Click to expand...
So Dale are you saying that it is a good idea to weld a tab on it and grind it down? Or get an original part??????
 
Why are these decomp mechanisms so piss weak? Does everyone really have to weld a dob on them? Should I buy a new one or remodel the old?
Because its not an easy task to get this 0.75 mm exactly right the first time????????? And how long will it last?
I dont know!!
 
Hi Scully,
Any of the three avenues (New de-comp, weld on inside of counterweight or hard weld de-comp lobe) will suffice providing the lift, duration and timing are close to correct for the given engine displacement. Personally I have yet to experience the sensitivity reported by others. It has been my experience that when the ignition timing, fuel mixture and idle speed are set correctly, the starter spins the engine above an average of 400 rpm (most do) and the stator is capable of proper output the engine will indeed "E" start somewhat reliably.

The trouble once again as I see it is that of manufacturing tolerances. Many SEM ignitions will generate a loaded spark down to 400 rpm, however, many will not. One must either insure a minimum rpm (ie battery, starter, de-comp, etc.) or lower the minimum spark generating requirement.

I am working on a replacement module which reduces the minimum rpm requirement for stable spark generation during low rpm. As with my other Husaberg related projects this takes considerable time as it is 100% privaetly funded by yours truly. :D

Hope this helps.
Kind Regards,
Dale
 
Dale

Thanks for the help Dale.
I have ordered a new decomp mechanism and a conlink and got 2 new cam bearings.
I have no lift at all in the mechanism. Not keen on the idea of a weld breaking off in the motor. I can have a practise on the old one instead.
The new 6201 c3 bearings have the seals in, should I take them out? As the KTM head kit(similar to the Berg) comes with the seals in?? If the motor was new I can see why the seals in would be a good idea, but once run in?
 
Hi Scully,
I personally remove the inboard seals only leaving behind the outboard as a means to create a more efficient cam lobe oil resevoir.
Best Regards,
Dale
 

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