Prospectors Enduro (timed)
Red Mountain California
03-15-09:
Temps 50's in the morning, and high 60's in the afternoon.
Beautiful weather, lot's of grass, and carpets of yellow and purple flowers greeted all those who attended this years Prospectors' Gold Rush Enduro. The first 6 or 8 inches of soil is finally dry, so the dust free conditions of a few weeks ago, sadly, are gone.
I also saw fellow UHE member Hard Rider at sign up and one of the resets, with his beautiful 07. Super nice guy.
The Prospectors laid out a fun first loop with the beginners in mind with some pretty high speed averages to add points to probably even the fastest riders. According to Chilly White; Paul Krause, Tyler Smith, Bob Roberts (local fast guy), and him all dropped 7 points. I was actually able to zero the first check even though I started a minute late as my riding partner John Shoemaker was having some "issues".
The first loop offered up lot's of whoop sections and G outs. These weren't too bad in the beginning, but, when we hit the 42mph speed averages it got a bit brutal at times. It definitely got your heart rate up. It wasn't all whoops though, there were plenty of twists and turns over hill and dale to keep things interesting. Since John and I started on minute 71 there were some pretty good berms at the turns, which John told me the 570 was doing a good job of blowing out.
(couldn't find a white number plate for the event)
This was my first "real" outing with the new gearing, the 13/50 that I had put on before our club race. While I did get some miles in at the club race on this gearing, this was the first time I used it under racing conditions. With the high speed averages of the first loop I was able to really stretch the new 570's legs for the first time, just trying to keep up. The 570 accelerated very hard under full throttle from the mid range on up, 6th was more than fast enough for a few of the jeep road sections they were running us down. With first being a good rock crawling gear, just the way I like it. In just about any gear though, a quick snap of the throttle will spin up the rear with out any trouble.
This was also the first race test of my redone suspension, and I must say that I was not surprised by how well it was working. The Red Mountain area has a lot of what I would call clay in the soil, and this makes the whoops and G out exceptionally sharp. I'm finding that the 09 with the Clean Racing suspension is great at soaking up the high speed chop, and left me with no blisters at the finish. And as I mentioned before, it soaks up the big hits, well, with ease quite frankly.
Sorry don't have any top speeds for you as one didn't dare look down for that, and the new odo that comes on this bike doesn't have the max speed capture like my 04 does.
I ended up finishing the first loop of 39 miles and change, real miles that is, 7 minutes late, which only left me 26 minutes to get back to the truck for a pit stop and lunch. Man, these Enduro's are tough ;-).
We managed to start the second loop on time, with a 30mph speed average for the first 6 miles and dropping to an 18mph average that you could maybe do 8 miles an hour on! This led to the first big down hill with the first check at the bottom, a very pretty well endowed lady with a low cut top came up to write the time on my card and as she finished writing my pitiful time on my card, and was still bent over asked me "are you having a good time?" I answered yes the course is great, and thought to myself, the view right now is spectacular!!! And that is the way most of the second loop would go, less the nice looking lady, the second loop was fun, albeit challenging. The course twisted back on itself quite frequently and was very creative in putting in miles in the dwindling area we have to ride in there. The second loop had some pretty difficult uphills, and lot's of downhills, with lot's of rocks--everywhere.
(Wow, that looks really steep!)
The course workers on the second loop were a lot more creative in their efforts here as well, at one point there was toilet sitting in the middle of a rock strewn wash with a sign on it that I think read; "you're going to need this". Uh oh. This was followed by some serious technical riding up washes and up and over waterfalls, one with arrows pointing left and right to the two routes, with a sign that read, "two ways, both hard". Kind of cute, but the right side was the way to go, and really wasn't that hard.
On one of the ahhhem, larger down hills I was coming up on a guy and was going to pass him. He moved over to let me by, and as I was approaching I tried to slow a bit to keep from hitting him the rear end came up and over to my right and down I went into the rocks. Thank god for arm guards! The guy asked me if I was alright, to which I replied in my best English accent "Oh! he's blotted his copy book!!!" This guy of course had no idea what I was talking about and off he went. Picking up a 250 pound motorcycle on a hill this steep, in loose sand and rocks is a bit of treat! You have got to keep the front brake on no matter what. I probably lost about 2 minutes getting it righted and back on and moving again.
Throughout both loops many of the check workers noticed the new berg and all wanted to know how it worked, and had lot's of compliments on what a great bike it was. As Tom Petty says in a song.......It's nice to be King, just for a day, you get to meet girls, you get your own way.... I don't know about getting my own way that day, but, I wonder where that gal got to from the first check........
As I came down another big down hill into a canyon, with larger rocks, more like TV set sized here, I could hear Metallica playing and then I could see the easy up. I thought, oh, this is going to be a "good" check. I was not disappointed as the two guys writing numbers were clad in long T shirts with a print on them that looked like a girls body wearing a bikini. This was not the girl from the first check!!! They looked like they were having a great time!!
The rest of the second loop was more of the same, lot's of very challenging terrain that was relentless. There were 3 resets on the second loop, and the only one I was on time to was the first one, the other two only helped lessen my lateness. There was one section on this loop that had a 4mph speed average, you can insert your own image to depict the terrain of that one!!!
I did have one more spill on this loop at about 15mph. It was a stupid fall, I was tired and being lazy. It really made me realize I made the right decision to replace my old Tech 8's with the new Tech 8's I bought when I bought my 09. Tweaked my ankle a bit, but, it feels fine today.
The last reset knocked my lateness down to 6 minutes, but, over the next 8 miles to the finish, I lost another 18 minutes. It took me 2 hours and 59 minutes to do 42.4 actual miles on the second loop, and 1 hour and 4 minutes to do the first loop, and I don't know the actual mileage, but if you take away the resets it was 45.4. I had about half of the back section of the fuel tank, and maybe an inch or so in the front section with fuel at the end of the second loop. And more than that at the end of the first loop. My best guess at this point would be that I had at least another 12-15 miles of fuel left at the end of the second loop.
Total miles for the day was 88, and about 85 was spent on course. As near as I can tell I used 2.75 or 2.8 gallons of fuel to give an overall mileage of 32.0 to 31.4 mpg. This is about what I've been getting lately. I had the map switch set on standard for about 3/4's of the event. The EFI is really quite magic on this bike, not only does it make good power everywhere, the feel never changes, even when you hear the fan come on occasionally, it has the same throttle response and power. Just fantastic. Oh and no surprise stall hiccups or other funny business in the 4 plus hours on course!!
My hat's off to the prospectors for a fantastic event, it was so well marked Ray Charles could have found his way around! It must have been one heck of a lot of work to lay that course out, mark and stake it, and then clean it all up!!
P.S. If you're interested you can see the route sheet here, post #19: http://www.district37ama.org/forums/sho ... 624&page=2
Red Mountain California
03-15-09:
Temps 50's in the morning, and high 60's in the afternoon.
Beautiful weather, lot's of grass, and carpets of yellow and purple flowers greeted all those who attended this years Prospectors' Gold Rush Enduro. The first 6 or 8 inches of soil is finally dry, so the dust free conditions of a few weeks ago, sadly, are gone.
I also saw fellow UHE member Hard Rider at sign up and one of the resets, with his beautiful 07. Super nice guy.
The Prospectors laid out a fun first loop with the beginners in mind with some pretty high speed averages to add points to probably even the fastest riders. According to Chilly White; Paul Krause, Tyler Smith, Bob Roberts (local fast guy), and him all dropped 7 points. I was actually able to zero the first check even though I started a minute late as my riding partner John Shoemaker was having some "issues".
The first loop offered up lot's of whoop sections and G outs. These weren't too bad in the beginning, but, when we hit the 42mph speed averages it got a bit brutal at times. It definitely got your heart rate up. It wasn't all whoops though, there were plenty of twists and turns over hill and dale to keep things interesting. Since John and I started on minute 71 there were some pretty good berms at the turns, which John told me the 570 was doing a good job of blowing out.
(couldn't find a white number plate for the event)
This was my first "real" outing with the new gearing, the 13/50 that I had put on before our club race. While I did get some miles in at the club race on this gearing, this was the first time I used it under racing conditions. With the high speed averages of the first loop I was able to really stretch the new 570's legs for the first time, just trying to keep up. The 570 accelerated very hard under full throttle from the mid range on up, 6th was more than fast enough for a few of the jeep road sections they were running us down. With first being a good rock crawling gear, just the way I like it. In just about any gear though, a quick snap of the throttle will spin up the rear with out any trouble.
This was also the first race test of my redone suspension, and I must say that I was not surprised by how well it was working. The Red Mountain area has a lot of what I would call clay in the soil, and this makes the whoops and G out exceptionally sharp. I'm finding that the 09 with the Clean Racing suspension is great at soaking up the high speed chop, and left me with no blisters at the finish. And as I mentioned before, it soaks up the big hits, well, with ease quite frankly.
Sorry don't have any top speeds for you as one didn't dare look down for that, and the new odo that comes on this bike doesn't have the max speed capture like my 04 does.
I ended up finishing the first loop of 39 miles and change, real miles that is, 7 minutes late, which only left me 26 minutes to get back to the truck for a pit stop and lunch. Man, these Enduro's are tough ;-).
We managed to start the second loop on time, with a 30mph speed average for the first 6 miles and dropping to an 18mph average that you could maybe do 8 miles an hour on! This led to the first big down hill with the first check at the bottom, a very pretty well endowed lady with a low cut top came up to write the time on my card and as she finished writing my pitiful time on my card, and was still bent over asked me "are you having a good time?" I answered yes the course is great, and thought to myself, the view right now is spectacular!!! And that is the way most of the second loop would go, less the nice looking lady, the second loop was fun, albeit challenging. The course twisted back on itself quite frequently and was very creative in putting in miles in the dwindling area we have to ride in there. The second loop had some pretty difficult uphills, and lot's of downhills, with lot's of rocks--everywhere.
(Wow, that looks really steep!)
The course workers on the second loop were a lot more creative in their efforts here as well, at one point there was toilet sitting in the middle of a rock strewn wash with a sign on it that I think read; "you're going to need this". Uh oh. This was followed by some serious technical riding up washes and up and over waterfalls, one with arrows pointing left and right to the two routes, with a sign that read, "two ways, both hard". Kind of cute, but the right side was the way to go, and really wasn't that hard.
On one of the ahhhem, larger down hills I was coming up on a guy and was going to pass him. He moved over to let me by, and as I was approaching I tried to slow a bit to keep from hitting him the rear end came up and over to my right and down I went into the rocks. Thank god for arm guards! The guy asked me if I was alright, to which I replied in my best English accent "Oh! he's blotted his copy book!!!" This guy of course had no idea what I was talking about and off he went. Picking up a 250 pound motorcycle on a hill this steep, in loose sand and rocks is a bit of treat! You have got to keep the front brake on no matter what. I probably lost about 2 minutes getting it righted and back on and moving again.
Throughout both loops many of the check workers noticed the new berg and all wanted to know how it worked, and had lot's of compliments on what a great bike it was. As Tom Petty says in a song.......It's nice to be King, just for a day, you get to meet girls, you get your own way.... I don't know about getting my own way that day, but, I wonder where that gal got to from the first check........
As I came down another big down hill into a canyon, with larger rocks, more like TV set sized here, I could hear Metallica playing and then I could see the easy up. I thought, oh, this is going to be a "good" check. I was not disappointed as the two guys writing numbers were clad in long T shirts with a print on them that looked like a girls body wearing a bikini. This was not the girl from the first check!!! They looked like they were having a great time!!
The rest of the second loop was more of the same, lot's of very challenging terrain that was relentless. There were 3 resets on the second loop, and the only one I was on time to was the first one, the other two only helped lessen my lateness. There was one section on this loop that had a 4mph speed average, you can insert your own image to depict the terrain of that one!!!
I did have one more spill on this loop at about 15mph. It was a stupid fall, I was tired and being lazy. It really made me realize I made the right decision to replace my old Tech 8's with the new Tech 8's I bought when I bought my 09. Tweaked my ankle a bit, but, it feels fine today.
The last reset knocked my lateness down to 6 minutes, but, over the next 8 miles to the finish, I lost another 18 minutes. It took me 2 hours and 59 minutes to do 42.4 actual miles on the second loop, and 1 hour and 4 minutes to do the first loop, and I don't know the actual mileage, but if you take away the resets it was 45.4. I had about half of the back section of the fuel tank, and maybe an inch or so in the front section with fuel at the end of the second loop. And more than that at the end of the first loop. My best guess at this point would be that I had at least another 12-15 miles of fuel left at the end of the second loop.
Total miles for the day was 88, and about 85 was spent on course. As near as I can tell I used 2.75 or 2.8 gallons of fuel to give an overall mileage of 32.0 to 31.4 mpg. This is about what I've been getting lately. I had the map switch set on standard for about 3/4's of the event. The EFI is really quite magic on this bike, not only does it make good power everywhere, the feel never changes, even when you hear the fan come on occasionally, it has the same throttle response and power. Just fantastic. Oh and no surprise stall hiccups or other funny business in the 4 plus hours on course!!
My hat's off to the prospectors for a fantastic event, it was so well marked Ray Charles could have found his way around! It must have been one heck of a lot of work to lay that course out, mark and stake it, and then clean it all up!!
P.S. If you're interested you can see the route sheet here, post #19: http://www.district37ama.org/forums/sho ... 624&page=2
This is a nice article Dale. It feels like I was there. The event sounds like a super fun one. I've only done one enduro, like 18 years ago. It was a lot of fun. We just don't get many of those around here.
We do have water falls, they don't get much water though. What's a 42mph speed avg.? That sounds pretty intense indeed. Gald you had fun and survived. thanks again for sharing.
John
We do have water falls, they don't get much water though. What's a 42mph speed avg.? That sounds pretty intense indeed. Gald you had fun and survived. thanks again for sharing.
John
Joined Jun 2008
1K Posts | 98+
Simi Valley Ca.
Dales lucky enough to live within a decent traveling distance of these enduros .
Then again, how many of us would elect to participate in some of these grueling events.
Let alone do well in them.
I'm sure they are fun but also tiring especially if your out of shape.
Great job Dale!
Paul
Then again, how many of us would elect to participate in some of these grueling events.
Let alone do well in them.
I'm sure they are fun but also tiring especially if your out of shape.
Great job Dale!
Paul
Okay,
In an effort to help out the Gazza's Australian Rallye team, I crunched some numbers for gearing and rpm's.
Here's the formula for any of you who would like to know roughly what speed your 09 bike will do at a given RPM, and given tire run out. The tire I am using is a Pirelli Scorpion XCMH 120/100, unmounted it has a run out of 86.5".
As the joker would say.........."And here we go"
Engine RPM / the primary ratio of 33:76 or 2.3:1 = transmission main shaft speed.
Transmission main shaft speed / 6th gear ratio of 26:21 or .80 = counter shaft speed.
Counter shaft speed / final drive ratio (stock) 13/52 or 4:1 = rear wheel rpm.
Rear wheel rpm X rear wheel run out or 86.5" = inches per minute.
Inches per minute / 12 = feet per minute.
Feet per minute X 60 = feet per hour.
Feet per hour / 5,280 = miles per hour.
Miles per hour X 1.6 =Kilometers per hour.
Let's start off with 7000 rpm.
7000/2.30=3043 trans main shaft rpm.
3043 trans main shaft rpm/ .80=3803 counter shaft rpm.
3803 counter shaft rpm/ final drive (13/52 or 4:1) 4 = 950 rear wheel rpm.
950 rear wheel rpm X rear wheel run out of 86.5" = 82,239.8" per minute.
82,239.8" per min / 12" = 6,853.3' per min.
6,853.3' per min X 60 = 411,199.37 ' per hour.
411, 199.37 ' per hour / 5,280 = 77.87 miles per hour X 1.6 = 124.6 kph.
This formula does not take into account tire growth at speed, and slip.
Given 7000 RPM, 6th gear:
14/52(3.71:1) gearing =83.7mph or 134kph.
14/50(3.57:1) gearing =87.25mph or 139.6kph.
15/52(3.46:1) gearing =89.86mph or 143.7kph.
15/50(3.33:1) gearing =93.46mph or 149.5kph.
Given 8000 RPM, 6th gear:
14/52(3.71:1) gearing =95.9mph or 153kph.
14/50(3.57:1) gearing =99.75mph or 159.6kph.
15/52(3.46:1) gearing =102.7mph or 164.37kph.
15/50(3.33:1) gearing =106.85mph or170.9kph.
In an effort to help out the Gazza's Australian Rallye team, I crunched some numbers for gearing and rpm's.
Here's the formula for any of you who would like to know roughly what speed your 09 bike will do at a given RPM, and given tire run out. The tire I am using is a Pirelli Scorpion XCMH 120/100, unmounted it has a run out of 86.5".
As the joker would say.........."And here we go"
Engine RPM / the primary ratio of 33:76 or 2.3:1 = transmission main shaft speed.
Transmission main shaft speed / 6th gear ratio of 26:21 or .80 = counter shaft speed.
Counter shaft speed / final drive ratio (stock) 13/52 or 4:1 = rear wheel rpm.
Rear wheel rpm X rear wheel run out or 86.5" = inches per minute.
Inches per minute / 12 = feet per minute.
Feet per minute X 60 = feet per hour.
Feet per hour / 5,280 = miles per hour.
Miles per hour X 1.6 =Kilometers per hour.
Let's start off with 7000 rpm.
7000/2.30=3043 trans main shaft rpm.
3043 trans main shaft rpm/ .80=3803 counter shaft rpm.
3803 counter shaft rpm/ final drive (13/52 or 4:1) 4 = 950 rear wheel rpm.
950 rear wheel rpm X rear wheel run out of 86.5" = 82,239.8" per minute.
82,239.8" per min / 12" = 6,853.3' per min.
6,853.3' per min X 60 = 411,199.37 ' per hour.
411, 199.37 ' per hour / 5,280 = 77.87 miles per hour X 1.6 = 124.6 kph.
This formula does not take into account tire growth at speed, and slip.
Given 7000 RPM, 6th gear:
14/52(3.71:1) gearing =83.7mph or 134kph.
14/50(3.57:1) gearing =87.25mph or 139.6kph.
15/52(3.46:1) gearing =89.86mph or 143.7kph.
15/50(3.33:1) gearing =93.46mph or 149.5kph.
Given 8000 RPM, 6th gear:
14/52(3.71:1) gearing =95.9mph or 153kph.
14/50(3.57:1) gearing =99.75mph or 159.6kph.
15/52(3.46:1) gearing =102.7mph or 164.37kph.
15/50(3.33:1) gearing =106.85mph or170.9kph.
hey thanks Dale, any ideas what the 570's rev to ???
do you think they will pull 14:48 ok ? based on your numbers above at 8000 RPM in 6th it should make 165kph or there abouts
With the 650's I can get 170kph out of them running 16:46, are you able to tell me what revs it is pulling to acheive that ?
do you think they will pull 14:48 ok ? based on your numbers above at 8000 RPM in 6th it should make 165kph or there abouts
With the 650's I can get 170kph out of them running 16:46, are you able to tell me what revs it is pulling to acheive that ?
Gazza said:
I don't know what the 570's rev to.
As far as the 650 rev's,Yes I can, I'll get back to you.
Given that the 07 primary ratio (29/78 or 2.689:1), and 6th gear ratio (27/20 or .74:1 ) is the same as the 08. And given you are using the same rear tire as above with the 86.5" run out. Your 650, @ 7500 rpm would be doing 171.2 kph.
With the 09 and a 15/48 gear set up, at 7500 you'd be running at 104mph, and 166.94kph. @ 8000 you'd be running at 111.29mph and 178kph.
With the 09 and 14/48 gear set up, at 8000 rpm you'd be running 104.1mph/166.6kph.
The 14/48 is 3.42:1, which is pretty close to the 15/52 which is 3.46:1. As far as the bike being able to pull that gearing, it's just a guess at this point but I'd say it will on the flat, but it will be pretty lazy getting up there. With the 14/52 it was still pulling in 6th across a dry lake bed pretty good. I'm afraid some testing will be the only way to find out for sure.
The real teller I think will be how fast 1st will go, and how low first will pull down to. I'll do some more number crunching and see what kind of speeds the different gears will be turning at different rpm's.
ok all good stuff Dale thanks.
I just got some feedback from the head KTM/Husaberg Australia technician.
Based on your info and that below I will give 14:50 a go which should give us the 165-170 kph range we need with out strecthing things too much.
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: 570 gearing
Hi,
I can only relate this info to the 530EXCR KTM as this is essentially the same motor and one that I have experience with, we achieved 175kmh using 14/48 gearing with the rev limit increased to 10,500rpm up from 9800 which is std, we also ran a 41mm carby with a modified cylinder head to accept this.
I would say that the 570 is also limited to 9800, I will run one on the dyno as soon as I can so as to give you real figures.
One things is that this motor really responds well to some cylinder head flowing, I will also ask the factory regarding a higher rev limit, the 10500 rpm was used at the '08 Safari with no loss of reliability.
I just got some feedback from the head KTM/Husaberg Australia technician.
Based on your info and that below I will give 14:50 a go which should give us the 165-170 kph range we need with out strecthing things too much.
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: 570 gearing
Hi,
I can only relate this info to the 530EXCR KTM as this is essentially the same motor and one that I have experience with, we achieved 175kmh using 14/48 gearing with the rev limit increased to 10,500rpm up from 9800 which is std, we also ran a 41mm carby with a modified cylinder head to accept this.
I would say that the 570 is also limited to 9800, I will run one on the dyno as soon as I can so as to give you real figures.
One things is that this motor really responds well to some cylinder head flowing, I will also ask the factory regarding a higher rev limit, the 10500 rpm was used at the '08 Safari with no loss of reliability.
Joined Jun 2005
172 Posts | 0+
Oregon
GREAT WRITE UP DALE!!...Now you have me missing my D37 days... 
I need to get my bike selling butt back in shape and make it down to the ole' stompin grounds for some fun desert riding again...
I need to get my bike selling butt back in shape and make it down to the ole' stompin grounds for some fun desert riding again...
Gazza said:
Hey Gazza,
Thanks for the great info there on the rev limit, please update us when he gets back to you after the dyno test. I was just talking with bikebarnbeckman about the rev limiter yesterday and poof you come up with the answer. As soon as I have time I will update my original post with a full spread of rpm's/speed/ in each gear. I'm interested in seeing how the numbers turn out as far as first gear goes say at 1500 or 2000 rpm's for any lower speed stuff. How much of that kind of stuff do you have in the rally's you ride?
With the fact that the head work will get you some increased performance, you will probably be able to keep the revs within reason and get some higher speeds out of it.
Just a quick update here,
After the IDC 100 I pulled the rocker cover and checked the valves, first time since the three hour check.
At 3 hours: Intakes: .005" Exhausts: .006"
At 44 hours: Intakes: .006" Exhausts: .007"
Not bad, not bad at all. I just decided to leave the alone for now, they are both at the maximum limit for the valve lash. I'll check them again in another 20 or 25 hours.
Since I had the tank off, I went ahead and pulled every single electrical connector apart, cleaned it, and then applied die electric grease to all of them before reassembling.
I also decided to wrap the mid pipe header where it passes up under the gas tank and next to the shock to try and keep the radiant heat down.
When I put the sub frame truss back one of the bolts that go into the piece that runs through the gas tank stripped. So, I replaced both sides with a Heli Coil insert. I hope that is something they addressed on the 2010 models.
Other than tightening a few of the rear spokes a few times everything else seems fine, the bike is running great.
After the IDC 100 I pulled the rocker cover and checked the valves, first time since the three hour check.
At 3 hours: Intakes: .005" Exhausts: .006"
At 44 hours: Intakes: .006" Exhausts: .007"
Not bad, not bad at all. I just decided to leave the alone for now, they are both at the maximum limit for the valve lash. I'll check them again in another 20 or 25 hours.
Since I had the tank off, I went ahead and pulled every single electrical connector apart, cleaned it, and then applied die electric grease to all of them before reassembling.
I also decided to wrap the mid pipe header where it passes up under the gas tank and next to the shock to try and keep the radiant heat down.
When I put the sub frame truss back one of the bolts that go into the piece that runs through the gas tank stripped. So, I replaced both sides with a Heli Coil insert. I hope that is something they addressed on the 2010 models.
Other than tightening a few of the rear spokes a few times everything else seems fine, the bike is running great.
Kennedy Meadows 08-14-09.
Temps 45 Low, and 84 High
Altitude: 7800-9500'
I had found that with the previous amount of shock pre load, 6mm, the action was a bit stiff, although turning was good, so I took the one turn out, and to keep the weight on the front I raised the fork tubes 5mm to the lowest scribe mark on the tubes. Knowing that I was going to be riding low speeds over some pretty sharp obstacles, I decreased the low speed compression damping by going out 5 clicks on the forks and shock. This turned out to be a great move as the ride was plush, but not mushy and the front had plenty of bite even going up steep hills with very slippery ground.
Before riding my bike I did a burn in at camp to allow the EFI to adjust to the new altitude which was a big departure from my last ride which was at 3000'-Thanks Kurt!. I was really anxious to see how the EFI handled the High altitude, and how the fuel mileage would be at the realatively slow average speeds 14-17mph, and the single track at high elevation, compared with the lower elevation and higher speed averages.
A couple of my friends came up to join me for a day and we had a great time riding in the south western section of the KM area as there were a couple of trail closures due to some small forest fires there. However, there is still plenty of riding to be had even with the trail closures.
We left Troy Meadows camp ground and headed up Mahogany creek trail, and then dropped down the canyon on a trail who's name escapes me at the moment to the intersection of 34E01 where we hung a left and headed up to Bonita Meadow. This section is a little tough and my friend Jack had a bit of a moment here, but, not too much drama.
We continued south on 34E01 to it's end where it becomes 34E10. The trail here pararllels trout creek for several miles and can be quite technichal as it follows along next to the stream bed.
Soon we came to the intersection with the trail that would take us down to Stony Meadow where we had lunch. By this time Jack, who is 64 was feeling the altitude and the 20 some miles we had put in so far. We hung out here for about 45 minutes ate our lunch and relaxed and enjoyed the clear mountain air and the cobalt blue skies.
I was reflecting on the fact that once again, the 570 was runnig absolutely flawlessly, no hiccups, flames outs, un expected stalls etc..... Shoot, the fan barely came on, and when it did, it only ran for a little bit. The only thing that I noticed was that by dropping two teeth on the rear sprocket for the desert where I usually ride, the gap between 2cnd and 3rd was a bit large. The stock final drive ratio would have been perfect here. 1st was still plenty low enough for the really tough sections, and 2cnd was good too.
We left Stony Meadow and rode back up the same trail and then hung a left on the another trail that would make a bit of a loop out of our ride before having to catch our original two trails back to camp. At the intersection for the Stony meadow trail Jack was complaining of some muscle cramping, but, nothing too serious.
As we made our way back up the mountain Jack's leg cramps became worse and we were having to stop frequently to let him rest which was no big deal, at least for me. By the time we got within 10 miles of camp, Jack had fallen over a few times and was in agony with his leg cramps.
We finally made it back to camp after 40 miles and a crushing 14.7 mph average. Both of Jack's quads looked like some one had shoved a third of a football under his skin on his quads from the cramping. Maybe now he'll listen to me when I tell him to drink more water and eat better! Poor guy.
The next morning I refilled my tank and was pleased to find that I had used slightly less than 1 and 1/8th gallons of fuel for the previous days ride, right at 37 mpg!! Not too bad for all 2cnd and 3rd gear stuff going up and down hills.
The next day I did 35 miles by myself and fillmed all of it with my new VholdR helmet cam. I'll write that up later once I figure out how to post the vids and put some music to the shots. Unfortunately I found out that one needs to put a piece of foam over the built in microphone as the wind noise is unbearable. Still great video quality in High Deff, and a very compact self contained design. With a 16GB SD micro chip, one can get 8 hours of HD, or 16 hours in SD. The only limitation is the battery, which lasts 2 hours. Still the batteries are about the size of a cell phone battery, so it's easy to carry enough to get 8hours worth of recording.
Temps 45 Low, and 84 High
Altitude: 7800-9500'
I had found that with the previous amount of shock pre load, 6mm, the action was a bit stiff, although turning was good, so I took the one turn out, and to keep the weight on the front I raised the fork tubes 5mm to the lowest scribe mark on the tubes. Knowing that I was going to be riding low speeds over some pretty sharp obstacles, I decreased the low speed compression damping by going out 5 clicks on the forks and shock. This turned out to be a great move as the ride was plush, but not mushy and the front had plenty of bite even going up steep hills with very slippery ground.
Before riding my bike I did a burn in at camp to allow the EFI to adjust to the new altitude which was a big departure from my last ride which was at 3000'-Thanks Kurt!. I was really anxious to see how the EFI handled the High altitude, and how the fuel mileage would be at the realatively slow average speeds 14-17mph, and the single track at high elevation, compared with the lower elevation and higher speed averages.
A couple of my friends came up to join me for a day and we had a great time riding in the south western section of the KM area as there were a couple of trail closures due to some small forest fires there. However, there is still plenty of riding to be had even with the trail closures.
We left Troy Meadows camp ground and headed up Mahogany creek trail, and then dropped down the canyon on a trail who's name escapes me at the moment to the intersection of 34E01 where we hung a left and headed up to Bonita Meadow. This section is a little tough and my friend Jack had a bit of a moment here, but, not too much drama.
We continued south on 34E01 to it's end where it becomes 34E10. The trail here pararllels trout creek for several miles and can be quite technichal as it follows along next to the stream bed.
Soon we came to the intersection with the trail that would take us down to Stony Meadow where we had lunch. By this time Jack, who is 64 was feeling the altitude and the 20 some miles we had put in so far. We hung out here for about 45 minutes ate our lunch and relaxed and enjoyed the clear mountain air and the cobalt blue skies.
I was reflecting on the fact that once again, the 570 was runnig absolutely flawlessly, no hiccups, flames outs, un expected stalls etc..... Shoot, the fan barely came on, and when it did, it only ran for a little bit. The only thing that I noticed was that by dropping two teeth on the rear sprocket for the desert where I usually ride, the gap between 2cnd and 3rd was a bit large. The stock final drive ratio would have been perfect here. 1st was still plenty low enough for the really tough sections, and 2cnd was good too.
We left Stony Meadow and rode back up the same trail and then hung a left on the another trail that would make a bit of a loop out of our ride before having to catch our original two trails back to camp. At the intersection for the Stony meadow trail Jack was complaining of some muscle cramping, but, nothing too serious.
As we made our way back up the mountain Jack's leg cramps became worse and we were having to stop frequently to let him rest which was no big deal, at least for me. By the time we got within 10 miles of camp, Jack had fallen over a few times and was in agony with his leg cramps.
We finally made it back to camp after 40 miles and a crushing 14.7 mph average. Both of Jack's quads looked like some one had shoved a third of a football under his skin on his quads from the cramping. Maybe now he'll listen to me when I tell him to drink more water and eat better! Poor guy.
The next morning I refilled my tank and was pleased to find that I had used slightly less than 1 and 1/8th gallons of fuel for the previous days ride, right at 37 mpg!! Not too bad for all 2cnd and 3rd gear stuff going up and down hills.
The next day I did 35 miles by myself and fillmed all of it with my new VholdR helmet cam. I'll write that up later once I figure out how to post the vids and put some music to the shots. Unfortunately I found out that one needs to put a piece of foam over the built in microphone as the wind noise is unbearable. Still great video quality in High Deff, and a very compact self contained design. With a 16GB SD micro chip, one can get 8 hours of HD, or 16 hours in SD. The only limitation is the battery, which lasts 2 hours. Still the batteries are about the size of a cell phone battery, so it's easy to carry enough to get 8hours worth of recording.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
spreadsheet I out up a while back to put those numbers in
its setup for the pre 09s but easy to alter
download/file.php?id=2347
its setup for the pre 09s but easy to alter
download/file.php?id=2347
Joined Feb 2002
865 Posts | 9+
las vegas nv
Re:
exactly!!!!!!!!
preload is not everthing, its the only thing.
thanks DaleEO, i thought i was like the bruce willis movie guy who talked to the kid who only saw stupid people, i mean dead people.
the berg i test rode at fr3 had too much preload and i had to keep sitting on the seat to keep it preloaded. a honda rider asked how i liked it and told him the back sucked and he said thats why he asked cause he saw the backend swapping around. thats the only reason clay got past me on the downhill. i'll bet him 4 southern tequila shots on that. hoping we get a fr down south there, really. no joke.
feel like a putz for not doing a good fr write up yet. i used to get tired from getting feedup with the worlds bs, and now i'mfeedup with the getting tired because of the bs.
happiness is a choice, but easier with the liquor/rx. or something completely different if you [not me !] are a grateful they are dead fan.
anyhow-preload adjustments of 2mm can make huge diffs.
adjusting preload to +/- 4" //100mm, with yoyr [substitue your own phrase here if applicable] perfectly toned buttocks on the seat ,and all that [or not all of that, as the case may be] is the totally wrong way to go.
start with 4mm preload and adjust 1mm at a time.
dont know how many turns = 1mm [anyone got that info?].
the only thing i do like about alot of preload, is it one of the few time things are get 'stiff' for me.
tuts
:devil:
DaleEO said:
exactly!!!!!!!!
preload is not everthing, its the only thing.
thanks DaleEO, i thought i was like the bruce willis movie guy who talked to the kid who only saw stupid people, i mean dead people.
the berg i test rode at fr3 had too much preload and i had to keep sitting on the seat to keep it preloaded. a honda rider asked how i liked it and told him the back sucked and he said thats why he asked cause he saw the backend swapping around. thats the only reason clay got past me on the downhill. i'll bet him 4 southern tequila shots on that. hoping we get a fr down south there, really. no joke.
feel like a putz for not doing a good fr write up yet. i used to get tired from getting feedup with the worlds bs, and now i'mfeedup with the getting tired because of the bs.
happiness is a choice, but easier with the liquor/rx. or something completely different if you [not me !] are a grateful they are dead fan.
anyhow-preload adjustments of 2mm can make huge diffs.
adjusting preload to +/- 4" //100mm, with yoyr [substitue your own phrase here if applicable] perfectly toned buttocks on the seat ,and all that [or not all of that, as the case may be] is the totally wrong way to go.
start with 4mm preload and adjust 1mm at a time.
dont know how many turns = 1mm [anyone got that info?].
the only thing i do like about alot of preload, is it one of the few time things are get 'stiff' for me.
tuts
:devil:
Dale, this is an excellent write up that you have done I take my hat off to you. I look forward to more updates.
I didn't know the burger suspension had so many adjustments. Thanks for the tips. I am after that plush ride
What is a "burn in at camp"? I would assume (and I would probably be wrong again) that the EFI computer would learn the altitude as soon as the ignition is switched on, via the MAP sensor, before you even have time to move your thumb to the starter button. Then the EFI Computer would adjust the EFI map via preset correction type settings in the map to change fuel mixture and timing before you even take your finger off the starter button.
Did you drop 2 teeth off the rear sprocket for more top speed or some another reason? I ask because mine scares the hell out of me already let alone trying making it go faster
Keep an eye on the die electric grease as I ran it in my EFI boat for awhile on the sealed electrical connectors and I found it dried out and seemed to look like it did not help stop corrosion. I could never work out if it was better to leave the connectors dry or use die electric grease and have to clean the old grease off and re apply ever year.
My mate owns a little Thread Repair business, he left his business card on my seat smiled and said, “You will need this now you own a Husaberg”.
I didn't know the burger suspension had so many adjustments. Thanks for the tips. I am after that plush ride
What is a "burn in at camp"? I would assume (and I would probably be wrong again) that the EFI computer would learn the altitude as soon as the ignition is switched on, via the MAP sensor, before you even have time to move your thumb to the starter button. Then the EFI Computer would adjust the EFI map via preset correction type settings in the map to change fuel mixture and timing before you even take your finger off the starter button.
Did you drop 2 teeth off the rear sprocket for more top speed or some another reason? I ask because mine scares the hell out of me already let alone trying making it go faster
Keep an eye on the die electric grease as I ran it in my EFI boat for awhile on the sealed electrical connectors and I found it dried out and seemed to look like it did not help stop corrosion. I could never work out if it was better to leave the connectors dry or use die electric grease and have to clean the old grease off and re apply ever year.
My mate owns a little Thread Repair business, he left his business card on my seat smiled and said, “You will need this now you own a Husaberg”.
Had a bit of a Eureka moment the other day with my 09...........
After I had got my suspension set up for my weight and riding conditions, I also installed a Scott's steering stabilizer at the same time.
As has been the case for my last 3 Husaberg's, I drop them off at Scott's and they make the frame bracket off of my bike-by the way the Husaberg frame bracket for the 09's forward is the highest selling bracket.
One thing I had noticed and mentioned in my earlier posts that with the suspension re do, and the stabilizer installation, the bike became super stable. So much so that I had lost some of the ultra flick ability of the bike. I was okay with this, as you don't get something for nothing, and with the suspension re do, the bike was no super stable and able to handle the conditions I ride in, which varies from high speed valley crossings and sand washes, to ultra technical rocky washes and single track.
Well, the other day I was in the garage, spending quality time with my bike and was flipping through my stabilizer owner’s manual, and began pondering the adjustable high speed circuit of the damper. The damper's high speed ckt had come set at 1 & 1/2 turns out, and the instruction manual cautioned not to mess with this until one has experience with the damper itself and since I've had it for 10 years now I felt qualified. The book says to try setting the High speed ckt at 2 turns out and then try going in 1/8th turn at a time.
It also needs mentioning here that, according to the book, that the less low speed damping you have dialed in, the more sensitive the high speed becomes.
So, with that in mind I turned the low speed knob 3 turns out-the maximum, then started playing with the high speed screw with the bike on a very stable scissor lift stand. First I tried moving the bars swiftly with the stock setting, and then opened it 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. The difference is very marked. At the same time that I would make a change to the high speed ckt, I would then try the slow speed, or base valve as it is called at different settings, from the suggested 1/2 to 1 turn out (4-8 clicks out), to my usual setting of 1 &1/2 turns out (12 clicks out). Then reset the slow speed back to 3 turns out, and then in 1/8th of a turn on the high speed, and repeat testing with the slow speed set at different settings.
If you have never tried this testing you are really missing out on the adjustability of the Scott's steering damper. The difference in feel by using the above mentioned testing is amazing.
I ended up setting my high speed ckt at 1 & 3/4 turns out, and now run the low speed at 1 to 1 & 1/2 turns out as I have always done.
The big pay off for this testing?? My bike is now like it was when it came stock, super flick able, yet the damper helps out with the no see ums.
As has been mentioned before by other folks, notably Fryguy, when talking about the difference in the bike when changing springs, small adjustments have great effect, and the steering damper is no different.
As a further note, I finally wore out a part on my 09 (other than tires) now that it has 94 hours on it. My lower shock heim joint had about 5-7mm of play in it after I finished the 6 hours of Glen Helen. So I replaced that the other day. I checked the swing arm bushings since it was off and they were all good, but, slathered some fresh grease in there any ways. CAUTION: The swing arm needle bearings are not caged, they will fall out with out the bushing in there so be careful when pulling the bushing out!!!! A good coat of grease will hold everything in place.
I'm also ending my long love affair with my beloved Pirrelli tires. The new compounds that are used in the SCMH's that replaced the MT 18's are different, and they become quite scary when they go off. I talked with Fritz, and am going to try his suggestion of Bridgestone 403 front and 404 rear. I'll let you know how that turns out.
Starting to get pumped about the Idaho City 100, hopefully going to make it both days this year and finish on bronze at least!!!
After I had got my suspension set up for my weight and riding conditions, I also installed a Scott's steering stabilizer at the same time.
As has been the case for my last 3 Husaberg's, I drop them off at Scott's and they make the frame bracket off of my bike-by the way the Husaberg frame bracket for the 09's forward is the highest selling bracket.
One thing I had noticed and mentioned in my earlier posts that with the suspension re do, and the stabilizer installation, the bike became super stable. So much so that I had lost some of the ultra flick ability of the bike. I was okay with this, as you don't get something for nothing, and with the suspension re do, the bike was no super stable and able to handle the conditions I ride in, which varies from high speed valley crossings and sand washes, to ultra technical rocky washes and single track.
Well, the other day I was in the garage, spending quality time with my bike and was flipping through my stabilizer owner’s manual, and began pondering the adjustable high speed circuit of the damper. The damper's high speed ckt had come set at 1 & 1/2 turns out, and the instruction manual cautioned not to mess with this until one has experience with the damper itself and since I've had it for 10 years now I felt qualified. The book says to try setting the High speed ckt at 2 turns out and then try going in 1/8th turn at a time.
It also needs mentioning here that, according to the book, that the less low speed damping you have dialed in, the more sensitive the high speed becomes.
So, with that in mind I turned the low speed knob 3 turns out-the maximum, then started playing with the high speed screw with the bike on a very stable scissor lift stand. First I tried moving the bars swiftly with the stock setting, and then opened it 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. The difference is very marked. At the same time that I would make a change to the high speed ckt, I would then try the slow speed, or base valve as it is called at different settings, from the suggested 1/2 to 1 turn out (4-8 clicks out), to my usual setting of 1 &1/2 turns out (12 clicks out). Then reset the slow speed back to 3 turns out, and then in 1/8th of a turn on the high speed, and repeat testing with the slow speed set at different settings.
If you have never tried this testing you are really missing out on the adjustability of the Scott's steering damper. The difference in feel by using the above mentioned testing is amazing.
I ended up setting my high speed ckt at 1 & 3/4 turns out, and now run the low speed at 1 to 1 & 1/2 turns out as I have always done.
The big pay off for this testing?? My bike is now like it was when it came stock, super flick able, yet the damper helps out with the no see ums.
As has been mentioned before by other folks, notably Fryguy, when talking about the difference in the bike when changing springs, small adjustments have great effect, and the steering damper is no different.
As a further note, I finally wore out a part on my 09 (other than tires) now that it has 94 hours on it. My lower shock heim joint had about 5-7mm of play in it after I finished the 6 hours of Glen Helen. So I replaced that the other day. I checked the swing arm bushings since it was off and they were all good, but, slathered some fresh grease in there any ways. CAUTION: The swing arm needle bearings are not caged, they will fall out with out the bushing in there so be careful when pulling the bushing out!!!! A good coat of grease will hold everything in place.
I'm also ending my long love affair with my beloved Pirrelli tires. The new compounds that are used in the SCMH's that replaced the MT 18's are different, and they become quite scary when they go off. I talked with Fritz, and am going to try his suggestion of Bridgestone 403 front and 404 rear. I'll let you know how that turns out.
Starting to get pumped about the Idaho City 100, hopefully going to make it both days this year and finish on bronze at least!!!
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
something probably not thought of often is if the HS on the damper is too stiff it can be nasty
not often but downhill or flat jump landing front wheel first, back wheel still in the air, if the front wheel catches a rut or a rock or something without the damper it just flicks the bars a bit and you get on with things.
with a damper with the HS set stiff it locks the bars to the bike and instead of a flick, the back wheel being in the air gets sent flying out to the side, worst crash ive had on the berg landed a 4th gear flat jump front wheel first and got sent into a cartoon death swap I couldn't fix because each swap locked the front and back together, HS was about 1 turn stiffer than recommended. LS heaps softer, was great nice easy stearing flickable all good till it did its job with the back wheel in the air.
just another angle on it
not often but downhill or flat jump landing front wheel first, back wheel still in the air, if the front wheel catches a rut or a rock or something without the damper it just flicks the bars a bit and you get on with things.
with a damper with the HS set stiff it locks the bars to the bike and instead of a flick, the back wheel being in the air gets sent flying out to the side, worst crash ive had on the berg landed a 4th gear flat jump front wheel first and got sent into a cartoon death swap I couldn't fix because each swap locked the front and back together, HS was about 1 turn stiffer than recommended. LS heaps softer, was great nice easy stearing flickable all good till it did its job with the back wheel in the air.
just another angle on it
I enjoyed the write up. New guy here. I'm soaking it all in. I sold my 2008 505 and 300XC to buy a demo 09 FE570. I've owned 10 KTMs over the years and none of them were this good right out of the box. So far I am not disappointed with my decision to buy the Berg. 8)
( I know I posted this in two places, but, figured that someone might do a search in the cooling system section for the 09 forward seal replacement so I posted this there as well)
All,
Well after 100 hours the water pump seal started dribbling out the weep hole. I got the parts to replace it, clutch cover gasket, seals, pump housing gasket etc.
The new seals do not have the metallic outer that the previous generation had, and the oil seal has little spacers on it to leave a gap between the two so the weep hole will not get plugged off.
So Friday afternoon, great weather, thought I would go out and knock this out and maybe get in a few hours riding on Sunday. Everything was going good until I pulled the water pump impellor. The water pump impellor on the new motor is a closed design, really cool design actually, this design will resist cavitation and is much more efficient than an open design.
The impellor itself is a two piece design, with a washer like disc with grooves in it that locks into what looks like a standard impellor. My problems began with the standard impellor came right off, but the washer part stayed. Even though I was very gentle in trying to remove it, it broke into two pieces (@#$%!). So will have to get that piece, they are not expensive, just a pain that it broke. So a word to the wise, be very careful when removing this piece when you disassemble it. Probably just waiting until I had the cover off and pushing the shaft out would have worked better. Live and learn!
The upside to this that the new seals will push in with your fingers, not like the last design which took some care to keep it from folding as you installed it.
Looking at how the seals are installed and knowing how easy they are to install, I bet that if you had a little experience, and used a seal pick type tool very carefully, you could replace the seals without taking off the side cover.
The shaft seal appears to have a hardening coating of some kind, and while there are shinny spots on it from where the seals ride, there is no grooving like the last generation.
Even with taking the side cover off, I figured I could have done the whole job in an hour start to finish if I hadn't broken the little washer.
All,
Well after 100 hours the water pump seal started dribbling out the weep hole. I got the parts to replace it, clutch cover gasket, seals, pump housing gasket etc.
The new seals do not have the metallic outer that the previous generation had, and the oil seal has little spacers on it to leave a gap between the two so the weep hole will not get plugged off.
So Friday afternoon, great weather, thought I would go out and knock this out and maybe get in a few hours riding on Sunday. Everything was going good until I pulled the water pump impellor. The water pump impellor on the new motor is a closed design, really cool design actually, this design will resist cavitation and is much more efficient than an open design.
The impellor itself is a two piece design, with a washer like disc with grooves in it that locks into what looks like a standard impellor. My problems began with the standard impellor came right off, but the washer part stayed. Even though I was very gentle in trying to remove it, it broke into two pieces (@#$%!). So will have to get that piece, they are not expensive, just a pain that it broke. So a word to the wise, be very careful when removing this piece when you disassemble it. Probably just waiting until I had the cover off and pushing the shaft out would have worked better. Live and learn!
The upside to this that the new seals will push in with your fingers, not like the last design which took some care to keep it from folding as you installed it.
Looking at how the seals are installed and knowing how easy they are to install, I bet that if you had a little experience, and used a seal pick type tool very carefully, you could replace the seals without taking off the side cover.
The shaft seal appears to have a hardening coating of some kind, and while there are shinny spots on it from where the seals ride, there is no grooving like the last generation.
Even with taking the side cover off, I figured I could have done the whole job in an hour start to finish if I hadn't broken the little washer.
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