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Cutting out on rolling throttle closed

L

loonyberg

Joined May 2007
96 Posts | 0+
Cambridgeshire, UK:2002 FS650e
2002FS650e starts okay on kickstart and idles at around 1500rpm but seems to have an annoying problem that when I roll the throttle towards closed to slow for a corner the engine seems to cut out. When I open the throttle again I can hear the exhaust note change but it's still not firing. It then fires and pulls my arms out of my shoulders. It doesn't happen all the time but is annoying and it also occurs when the throttle is still partially open. Is this called bogging?
I'm not sure which jets are in the carb but think from earlier threads that I may need to change the pilot jet. Any advice would be welcome
 
i suggest you take your carb apart and make sure it has no blocked jets or fuel gallery's before you start re jetting . besides if it was the jetting it would have a flat spot when you wack the throttle open out of slow corners . also clean and re-oil your air filter .

can you give me more info like how long you have had the bike . has it always had this problem
hope this helps .keep me posted
 
sounds like a carb issue , i would remove the carb and clean it thoroughly .

use carb cleaner and pay attention to the pilot jet , remove the pilot jet and spray carb cleaner into the area where the pilot jet screws into .
 
Took carb apart this afternoon, removed jets and throughly cleaned. A little dirt but not much. Reassembled and reinstalled in bike. Once petrol had been dragged through it started on the kicker ok. Let it warm up and revved it to about 5k, however it doesn't seem to like revs and is back firing and sometimes cuts out again on rolling throttle closed. Need to try it on the road yet and perhaps more investigation as I don't think it's fixed yet.BTW Have refilled with BP Ultimate and proboost.
Valves and timing seems okay perhaps it's now narrowing down to ignition?
 
it could be a very bad bog or as i suspect it's the plug had enough. try a new plug and while you're there please try the nippondenso IXU24 or the NGK equivelant.

at those revs the pluug spark will 'blow out'. of course i don't REALLY know what happens in there but in all the years i've heard of this, that scenario has been of help.

i trust that you've changed nothing else right?

also, and this is the biggest favour you will ever have done for you because there is no way in 20 years that anyone else would get this: if you use pro boost it may have melted the screen in your fuel filter and no fuel can get through. let us know what you find?

regards

Taffy
 
It gives the impression on the road that the spark is being blown out. I use IXU24 plugs but I'll replace with a new one as a quick check. Nothing else was changed when the carb was reinstalled, settings are the same
 
My mistake! The plug I had in it was a DCR8EIX. Now replaced with IXU24. Now no problem with cutting out. Thanks Taffy
 
do i know my stuff or do i know my stuff!

it wasn't even a 9 it was an 8!!!!!!!!!

made my day punk!

regards

Taffy
 
The bike now appears to be an absolute pig to start when cold so I need to do some further checking to see if it is related to changing the plug or is caused by some problem that has coincidentally occurred
 
is the new spark plug the same as the one you took out or one of the ones recommended by taffy?
if it's a nippondenso IXU24 or the NGK equivelant. try a new one the same as you took out ,if it was starting fine on them. cheap check before you start pulling things apart etc.
 
go through my choke guide in the poor start section. it will give you a great understanding of what happens and why.

regards

Taffy
 
Okay I did some checks late last night. Both these spark plugs appear to have a 5KOhm resistance in built. I unscrewed the cap from the flexible HT lead coming from the coil and checked it with the multimeter. It read 5KOhm between input and output. Now that would seem to me that the spark plug would see half the coil voltage due to the resistive divider and also the duration of the spark would be longer due to the increased CR factor. I've ordered another cap and the original DCPR8E plug to get me back to where I was. Should the plug cap be suppressed with5KOhm or should it be nearer 0 Ohms i.e. straight through?
 
without checking i would say that the R' in your plug is the resistor so that the plug can be free. however, even these always had a .5k ohm resistance if i recall correctly. you simply need 6to find out if it gets enough fuel on choke and you sometimes have to change your style of starting it.

go to the hard starting ddoc at the top of the 12. poor starting section.

regards

taffy
 
Okay I've now gone back to the original plug type and replaced the plug cap with a black one (from DCR). The bike still doesn't start but it f****d a few times tonight when it was kicked over so may be close to starting. Still more tests to do but left leg worn out and dragging on the ground behind me when I left the garage. Will have another go tomorrow. This is certainly a way to lose weight!!
The only difference between running before and now not is stripping down, cleaning and reassembling the carb. The other thing is I kicked it over a few times w/o the plug being connected i.e. unloaded coil. I've read and reread section 12 of the doc. Plug is wet so fuel is getting in there. Need to check spark and fiddle with carb perhaps.
 
did it start better with the new plug?

did you go for a run staright away or stop it in the shed?

i'm not on the phone (so not on the internet) right now so i might be a while getting back to you. i'll PM you my mobile.

regards

Taffy
 
I think this is when the stator was starting to play up. Now replaced with Sparks rewound one and now the bike is totally different. I'm looking forward to the better weather so I can use it to the full (or perhaps when I bottle out)
 

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