This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CURE OVERHEATING - Liquid Intelligence 115

Joined Jul 2011
45 Posts | 0+
Baldivis Western OZ
Hi guys a while ago I was having overheating issues with my 550 so i tried out this synthetic coolant Liquid Intelligence 115, I must say it is amazing, the bike runs cooler and has never boiled over since we put this magic in it, my brothers KTM 525 also running this and as with mine no overheating and running temps are cooler. just thought i would share my experience as others have the same issues i had. I am aware that this stuff will not boil so you could potentially do some serious damage if you idle your bike for long periods of time. i'm not a re seller nor am i making money from this product.

As a side note once you put this stuff in you never need to change it like you do with the Green and Red coolants.
:D :D :D

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/
 
Sounds a bit snake oil to me, too much rocket science facts and claims.

Isn't the evans stuff the same as this? Both are waterless and have really high boiling point (=overheating risk if no temp gauge is used).

Claims for much lower running temps is what got me curious, but then again water is supposed to be one of the best material for heat transfer.

How much for one bottle and where can I get it as I live in Finland. I could easily do some datalogging with UST and monitor my temp sensor and other sensors in the motor real time. Would see if the stuff really lowers motor temps.
 
T_i_G_e_R said:
Nahhhh... dont think so .. looks too fishy


thats fine you think that i know it actually works i was just trying to help others who suffer the same overheating issues as i used to but not any more!!
 
shoey85 said:
thats fine you think that i know it actually works i was just trying to help others who suffer the same overheating issues as i used to but not any more!!

How you have verified this? Installed temp gauge and monitored temperatures, or just "feel" it's not overheating because it does not boil out from overflow tube?

If it really takes 191c deg to boil this stuff, then you can't know if the bike is overheating before it will completely seize or start to loose power rapidly. Anything over 120c and you are asking for trouble.

I could easily do some back to back tests and datalogging of this stuff and regular distilled water + water wetter combo that I run. Can record 800 minutes of riding and what every sensor in the bike sees, and watch it with laptop connected to ECU. But I'm not paying a damn $40+shipping for one litre of this magic booze. :|
 
Thanks for your feedback Shoey, I'm going to run it in my 550 also, only sufferred from getting hot once in some very slow long techincal stuff, I'm heading it off from two angles, I've just fitted the Orangeberg seal upgrade, and am about to fit a 300 X-CW thermo fan kit and an on at 100 degrees off at 95 switch.

I think what the guys are saying to a point is valid, I've spoken a number of times with Peter that developed LI 115 and I think more so than anything is it's ability to continue to evenly dissapate the heat and maintian that ability under conditions where water / coolant mix may start to have poor thermal conductivity. I'm not an engineer but figure that if the fluid is boiling and turning to steam it can't be as effective at moving heat and keeping the cycle of engine cooling going

Anyways, between the two I think it'll provide good assistance to the engine and help keep it cool

Cheers
 
The snake oil psuedo-science is wrong, in fact the science is contrary to what they are saying.

Water has the highest heat capacity of any fluid (4.187 kJ/kg) after ammonia (this is why we can live on our planet)
The heat of vapourization (energy required to boil water) is also very high at 2,270 kJ/kg.
So it takes 540 times more energy to turn water into steam than it does to go from 99C to 100C
Water boiling in your rad is a very efficient way to remove heat from the engine. Those little microscopic steam pockets forming in the water jackets inside your engine are a good thing. When your engine boils over, think of it like the water is giving its best attempt at SAVING your engine by removing the excess heat.

Because water has such a high heat capacity, adding coolant (glycol) will reduce the cooling capacity of your system. That is why straight water plus something like Water Wetter (for corrosion resistance) is a good thing, you have more water in your cooling system.

What I think this stuff does is NOT boil, which is a BAD thing since the extra heat in your engine is not getting out, the cooling system is not absorbing it. Plus I am sure this fluid has a lower heat capacity than water, so by putting this stuff in your engine, you have reduced the total heat capacity of the system and removed the insurance policy water gives you when it starts to boil. Not a good idea.

Just because you don't see steam coming out of you rad doesn't mean your engine is not overheating.
 
Thanks for the input Bkowal...seems you know a heap more than us about water and cooling, what do you run in your Husaberg and which model do you have..?

Cheers
 
If I can chime in, I've been using straight distilled water + water wetter and about 5-15% coolant mixed in on my bikes.

My old gsxr showed around 5-8 celsius lower temps compared to 50/50 coolant mix on track. Looks like the Berg also likes it, as I have never boiled it even when sitting on traffic lights @ hot day.
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions