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Crank seal, spark side

canolman

canolman

Joined Sep 2013
369 Posts | 209+
canolbarth cymru
This engine has more leaks than a St.David's day cookery contest!:furious:
I've finally solved (I hope!) the leaks on the left side of the motor, time to sort the right!;)
Can the seal behind the ignition rotor be changed by removing the rotor and drill and tapping the seal? Not looked yet but either the seal has failed or is not seated properly after the rebuild:(
Not a bad leak but if it's a simple fix I'll get on it!:rolleyes: that well then leave the drive shaft seals but the Talon sprocket I fitted may be to narrow across the splines? Seem a bit 'wobbly'!:eek:
 
yes the ign side seal is an easy job

also check around any case bolts in the area

Ive used talon sprockets a few times they OK but the genuine berg 16T front is tougher
 
Cheers Bush,
Just measured the sprocket, 12mm as was the one I took off, that's same as standard 'berg?
Seems like a lot of play, I thought maybe that was why it started leaking, it wasn't pushing against the collar:unsure:
When you say check the case bolts do you mean that oil can run along the length and if so what can be done about it?
Could over filling with oil cause the seals to blow? When I took the clutch casing off I was amazed how much oil was left in the motor!:eek: I now put around 800cc to 850cc and level it to the lower quarter of the glass. A bit trial and error as when I dropped the motor into the chassis I didn't know exactly what was 'berg level!!:p
As they say "every day's a school day"
Diolch in advance;)
 
oem is 12.05 to 12.1 not much bigger, maybe try covering the shaft with silicone or pop an o ring over the splines before the sprocket to give it something to push on

I run 1.2L oil and with the engine tipped forwards.. never had a problem but i have the crank cavity under a vacuum so the seals get sucked in rather than blown out

the longest case bolt comes loose in my bike sometimes, loctite on the threads keeps it tight and under the head stops the leaks
 
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