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Coolant sensor or wiring wonky!

Joined Jun 2009
654 Posts | 1+
Seattle
I went to pick up my bike today from my dealer and got halfway home before the FI light started flashing at me. Turned around and took bike back to dealer.

One long, two short - coolant sensor.

Flash code FI warning 12 FI warning lamp (MIL) flashes 1x long, 2x short lamp (MIL)

Input signal from coolant temperature sensor too high - Check the coolant temperature sensor for short circuit to ground.


Dealer hooks bike up to diag tool and it says that once the bike warms up the voltage through the sensor drops below 0.137 V - minimum is 0.138 V. When the bike is just warm it starts out oh, something like 3 or 4 volts? Then as it gets warmed up the resistance goes up (?) and the voltage drops, or vice versa depending on the circuit - right? Telling the ECU the bike is warming up? So why the fault when it gets below 0.137 V?

I watched the diag tool computer say it got to about 0.120 V before we gave up. The light starts flashing when it drops below 0.137 V

Dealer replaced the sensor because without tearing bike apart there was no apparent wiring problems we could see - besides, would wiring really cause this? Anyway, replacing the sensor didn't help any - same behavior.

So I left the bike at the dealer and came home. He is going to tear into it and look for a wiring fault. We wiggled and tugged on the exposed wiring and didn't make any difference. I am sure he'll find the problem - I am just trying to understand how this works and what the possible problem might be.
 
Hi CodeMonkey
with ,137V thats about the point where ( speaking in general terms) set a short to ground CTS code
you could voltage drop the ground for the ECU with eng. running but if ground problem youlikely have other codes
I think they fixed the fault code personally I always replace a CTS on car I dont even test them, it is sometimes
long wait to see them fail, diagnosis time is more than cost of sensor not cost effective

later VIKING
 
GregUK said:
CodeMonkey

I wouldn't want you to be slashing your wrists, but did you read this thread in full:

http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13184#p110939

A new loom did wonders for a small problem on my bike!

Greg
No I didn't, but like any other problem electrical problems can be very specific to a particular bike. I have little fear of my bike going up in smoke, and I am sure my dealer will fix it, I am just trying to understand how this part of the bike works and maybe what the problem is.
 
So, the thinking now is that this problem is not due to wiring or the sensor, but rather the ECU.

My dealer checked all the wiring and can't find a problem. He checked with Husaberg and they said 'ECU'. So he is going to try swapping out the ECU.

I did notice it was running a bit funny - when I shifted up the bike would hesitate - almost stumble. Also, it no longer 'hunted' - the bike has always 'hunted' on light loads and light throttle.

Naturally, Husaberg says this is not covered by warranty (bike is over 1 year old but has less than 60 hours run time).
 
CodeMonkey said:
Apparently the problem is a pinched wire.
Hmm.

I'm glad you found the problem but these looms are starting to look slightly dodgy!

Greg
 
GregUK said:
CodeMonkey said:
Apparently the problem is a pinched wire.
Hmm.

I'm glad you found the problem but these looms are starting to look slightly dodgy!

Greg
I didn't see anything questionable in the wiring when I glanced at it except for zip ties from the factory that were too tight and possibly pinching the wire. There was more than one example of that.

My dealer did point out a few areas where some people have had problems because a bunch of the wiring runs through a tight area.

Beyond that, what is 'dodgy' about the wiring?
 
CodeMonkey said:
Beyond that, what is 'dodgy' about the wiring?

Pinched wires in themselves shouldn't be a problem. When your dealer says 'pinched wire' what he must mean is either a wire that has physically broken or one where the insulation has rubbed through to the bare wire which is then either shorting on the frame or on another bare wire.

Your bike; my bike and another reported on this forum is too high an incidence rate IMHO.

Greg
 
GregUK said:
CodeMonkey said:
Beyond that, what is 'dodgy' about the wiring?

Pinched wires in themselves shouldn't be a problem. When your dealer says 'pinched wire' what he must mean is either a wire that has physically broken or one where the insulation has rubbed through to the bare wire which is then either shorting on the frame or on another bare wire.

Your bike; my bike and another reported on this forum is too high an incidence rate IMHO.

Greg
Yeah, 'pinched' generally translates to broken or partly broken - enough to where it can't carry the correct voltage at least. I've seen it before; a wire is is 'pinched' somehow and you can't even see it is broken inside the insulation, but the fact that the insulation is deformed tells you that it might be broken.
 
Please tell me what specific wire was pinched and where. You never did say whether you replaced the ecm or not. After it warms up, Mine flashes just like yours and doesnt want to run. Please help!!
 
Your loom might be damaged in a different place than his, so just look for places where it's squeezed and/or rubbed.

I would start to look next to the shock. The cables are quite squeezed there and also one of the bolts for the fuel pump housing is rubbing the loom there (I have rounded the head of a bit on that bolt).
Also look where the loom passes the engine mount at the top back of the engine, that is a place where I have found wear on both the engine case and loom.
And check all places with a zip tie as they can over time cut through.

Every 45 hours I remove the loom and so far I have found ~2 cables each time that have had the fibers exposed....
 

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