Converting to 100% D.C. power

You can use all the stator power to lights etc. Depending on your equipment, you can go 100% AC as well but then you cannot charge a battery.

Fullwave rectifiers are more expensive.
If you have a halfwave system, the DC and AC can use common ground.

Enduro is a year/day around occupation. Still, the bikes do not have enough power to get sufficient light.

I have changed a KTM & Husky to full DC and fixed up the electrix of another KTM that was built as full DC. None had batteries. With the first KTM I intended to fit a battery (but never did) after falling in an old train tunnel & losing it in knee-deep water in the dark when it stopped. They were all fitted with either an electronic turn signal flasher unit and/or a horn and some LED lights that needed DC.

The cost of the full wave rectifier bridge (ie all 4 diodes in a single block - same as early 'bergs) should not be much more than $10 from an electronics store. The difference in cost between a bridge or just a single half wave diode is here nor there.

Mikst is correct about the common ground for AC & DC systems if used in combination, but a half wave rectifier will reduce the total power available from its DC side to about 60% what it would be with either full wave DC or AC was used.

Personally, if I was going to go to DC I'd run everything off DC in the same way a standard non-Kokusan stator 'berg is set up, then there would be no concern about grounding multiple systems. Full wave rectifier bridges are close to 100% efficient so little loss occurs through them.

BundyBear said:

... The cost of the full wave rectifier bridge (ie all 4 diodes in a single block - same as early 'bergs) ...

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This depends on the model year.

BundyBear said:

... Personally, if I was goint to go to DC I'd run everything off DC in the same way a standard non-Kokusan stator 'berg is set up, then there would be no concern about grounding multiple systems. Full wave rectifier bridges are close to 100% efficient so little loss occurs through them.

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The -03 rectifier seems to be good, around 100 USD.
I only know Husaberg models with AC and DC systems. Is the pre -01 pure DC?

mikst said:

I only know Husaberg models with AC and DC systems. Is the pre -01 pure DC?

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I was under the misguided impression that all models of bergs had similar electrics simply with more bits added for the e-start ones. This is not so as you say. The '98FE'E is DC only, and it appears so are all Elduros up to 2000. The models without batteries seem to be a combination of both AC & DC.

I simplified mine further by removing the power relay from under the seat which only served to flatten the battery if you forgot to turn the key off.

mikst said:

This depends on the model year.

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:iagree: The price a company charges for a part depends on model & year if you try to source a specific part from an OEM supplier.

:rant: Unfortunately prices for parts depend more on how much money they think they can extract from their customers for parts without them switching to another brand. It rarely ever reflects the true cost of a part plus a reasonable profit margin. A Semikron 200V 13A rectifier (the exact one used OEM in the '98 ) costs $22.80 Australian at one of the more expensive overnight mail-order electronics shops - including THEIR profit likely more than 50%. Likewise, there is about $10 worth of bits in a regulator, but I suspect Husaberg would charge more than that!

Some models after mine had the rectifier & regulator combined into a single unit, however these could easily be exchanged for seperate ones if it were convenient.

parts pricing

Hi BundyBear,
I agree that certain parts pricing for motorcycles is at times out of line.The retail price of a part is determined by more factors than simply what it costs to manufacture the part. Very often ,as with electrical components ,cast parts and other special parts the price must support the expense of the research and development that is required to make the first one. A unique feature of the motorcycle industry is that to be successful a manufacturer must always be improving and changing its design and updating all its parts.Of course the retail price of the new machine supports the initial investment,but the parts systems,packaging,inventory management coupled with low turnover and high obsolescence contribute to sometimes high prices.
In husabergs defence I find that for such a low production number brand the prices are very competitive,also they use standard size bearings,seals unlike the big H that often spec non standard parts of this nature.As an example the fuel pump on my 99 fe400e is simply a snowmobile unit cost $34.00cad.If that was a japanese machine they would have made a one-off electric pump that cost $340. ...nsman

NSMAN,

Would you PM me any and/or all info regarding that fuel pump you spoke of??? Please do not spare on ANY details you may have.

-Parsko

fuel pump

Hi Parsko,
PM me if you got my message...nsman

fuel pump

As we seem to have trouble communicating here is the info.Go to www.motovan.com ,select the snowmobile catalogue,select page 383.part #007-44211 top L.H.corner is the pump .Sorry price is $26.99 not $34.00...nsman

husabutt said:

What are the primary benefits and detractions of converting to 100% D.C. power. The way I understand it is that 100% of the stators power then goes directly to the battery and all lights and accessories are then run from there? If this is the best way to go why don't the manufacturers use this configuration?

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Getting back to the original topic, a fully AC system is certainly the simplest, but is not workable with starters, batteries or most other electronic components. eg. If a horn is fitted to these systems it will have its own little rectifier. It is how non-estart, non-road registered bikes would best be wired.

Running AC through the lighting system on batteried bikes isolates the lights from the battery. When the engine stops so do the lights. While this can be a pain in the dark it does prevent the battery being drained by the lights if not switched off when the engine is stopped.

AC has a tiny (almost negligible) advantage over DC in that it causes a bit less corrosion of wires & terminals if they get wet while live.

Road rules for registered bikes then come into it from various parts of the world requiring some parts of the electrical system to work with the engine stopped - eg tail lights. The result is the combined systems. They start with the basic AC system then add bits to do what is required, I would expect reducing differences in parts between models. The rectifier only needs to carry a few amps as most of the load is drawn upstream of it, however I don't belive the size of the rectifier should be a concern.

It is simpler, if you must use DC anywhere in the system, to simply run the whole lot DC. It allows full output to go to and past the battery. Everything can run off the battery (and flatten it if left on) with the engine stopped. Note the battery should never see more than a few amps through it when charging. The rectifier must be capable of carrying full stator output of 10 to 15 amps.

When I pulled the power relay from my bike I refitted it to automatically switch in the second stator winding only whenever the headlight is on. This reduces the work done by the stator & regulator duing times of lower electrical system load.

BundyBear said:

Getting back to the original topic, a fully AC system is certainly the simplest, but is not workable with starters, batteries or most other electronic components. eg. If a horn is fitted to these systems it will have its own little rectifier. It is how non-estart, non-road registered bikes would best be wired.

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I do this, fully AC system, cause I run approximately 15 V in the system. I have also a special Enduro registered bike.