I just received my new Safari tank and am in the process of fitting it to my '11 FE570. The Bike already has sub-frame tank installed. I will need to "T" into the 70 Degree subframe tank somehow. I was wondering if anyone else had done this yet. It looks like it will be a tight fit, and I'm not really looking forward to cutting any fuel lines, but I might have to...Thanks for any advice.
Connecting Safari front tank with subframe tank?
- Thread starter harikishan7
- Start date
-
- Tags
- connecting front safari subframe tank
I used a plastic "T" to fit the Safari tank into the 70D tank hose, but I had leak and broken "T"... I used a brass "T", but same result...
Finally, I decided to add a fuel spigot directly on the fuel pump aluminium housing. Since then, no trouble at all...!!!
Finally, I decided to add a fuel spigot directly on the fuel pump aluminium housing. Since then, no trouble at all...!!!
It's a lot better with pictures. Here we go:
[attachment=2:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7625 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is the 70D aluminium fuel pump housing. I've replaced the 70D blue curved hose with a straight black one. On the picture, it the bigger hose that runs toward the top of the picture. On the right side of the fuel pump housing, you can see the new 1/4" fuel spigot that I tapped into the housing. The 1/4" black hose runs toward the front of the bike to connect with the Safari tank.
[attachment=1:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7628 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is the left side of the bike. From the Safari tank left side, I ran a 1/4" hose to a brass "T" that connects the right side of the tank and the hose that reaches the fuel pump housing on the first picture.
[attachment=0:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7629 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is another view of the left side. The brass "T" is located near the cam chain manual tensionner (blue nut). To easily remove the Safari tank when I don't need it, I added a fuel quick disconnect between the fuel pump housing and the brass "T".
Hope this helps ! This setup has over 3000 miles and 50 hours of hardcore terrain and hardcore riding. Absolutely not problems with this setup.
Tom
[attachment=2:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7625 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is the 70D aluminium fuel pump housing. I've replaced the 70D blue curved hose with a straight black one. On the picture, it the bigger hose that runs toward the top of the picture. On the right side of the fuel pump housing, you can see the new 1/4" fuel spigot that I tapped into the housing. The 1/4" black hose runs toward the front of the bike to connect with the Safari tank.
[attachment=1:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7628 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is the left side of the bike. From the Safari tank left side, I ran a 1/4" hose to a brass "T" that connects the right side of the tank and the hose that reaches the fuel pump housing on the first picture.
[attachment=0:nvnp4q4c]IMG_7629 - Copie.JPG[/attachment:nvnp4q4c]
This is another view of the left side. The brass "T" is located near the cam chain manual tensionner (blue nut). To easily remove the Safari tank when I don't need it, I added a fuel quick disconnect between the fuel pump housing and the brass "T".
Hope this helps ! This setup has over 3000 miles and 50 hours of hardcore terrain and hardcore riding. Absolutely not problems with this setup.
Tom
Attachments
Thanks for the excellent write-up. I decided to go with the option of using a Stainless Steel Tee to the 70 degree fuel hose but now that you said you had broken both a plastic as well as a brass hose I am having second thoughts. Probably I will do the same that you did which is to add a spigot to the aluminium fuel pump housing .
tocou said:
please change out those zip ties to actual hose clamps. and i'm not sure i understand how you can break a brass T?
how do you reach the spigot to turn the fuel off?
I have found a great solution using brass compression fittings. I bought these brass fittings from Ace hardware store. I will post a pic next time I disconnect my tanks but this is the best solution in my opinion. I have used 3 Motion Pro 1/4" ID quick disconnects so that I can remove my safari tank and disconnect the subframe tank with ease. This helps in removing the stock tank easily. The compression fittings consist of a 1/4" brass nipple ( this goes in place of the one that is used on the aluminum fuel pump housing). This is then connected to a 1/4" brass pipe Tee. The safari tank uses 1/4" fuel hoses where as the sub-frame tank uses 3/8" fuel hose. So you need a 3/8" hose barb x 1/4" MPT and a 1/4" hose barb x 1/4" MPT. I also got rid of the hose that came with the sub frame tank and bought a nice rubber fuel injection hose form autozone.
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
