Hey guys new to the bergs and I have a small problem that I just want to make sure isnt something I should look into further. My berg cold starts ok but then when I shift into gear it hops and stalls with the clutch lever pulled in. I have tried pumping it up and moving back and fourth but it doesnt help. I have found that reving the engine up and shifting with the rpms up there is ok it does a little tug and after the first time it is no longer an issue. I have to do it every time I start it cold. Once again after the first time it is not a problem and I am not in tears or anything I just want to be sure its not something I should fix before it does cause something that makes me cry. Any advice anyone can offer will be a huge help thanks a lot.
O yea one more thing that bike WILL NOT find neutral unless it is rolling or off I have heard that is typical but again wanted to be sure thats not a big deal
gave her a good bleeding I am running some 20-50syn I am going to replace with some 10-40syn tomorrow it is cold 40 Fahrenheit tops. I have had the problem in say 65F I will regularly run 10-50syn when it gets warm again. I am in minnesota and it is only going to get colder until about April.
Joined Apr 2002
3K Posts | 11+
Phoenix Arizona
20/50 is a bit much for your temps. Try a motorcycle specific oil as well. Preferably a JASO rating. Interesting, my 06 did that the other day for the first time after sitting 2 months. I'm waiting to see if it does it again. It was about 80F when it did it though.
Your clutch plates are sticking together. The oil is too heavy for the temperatures. We had a problem on the KTM engines when running that weight oil in the cold, it would collapse the oil filters because the oil was too thick at that temperature. I find if I put the bike in gear with it off and rock it a bit to break the clutch free, it helps. Then start it in neutral and off you go.
Hey there Zachhill,
I'm in Minnesota as well! And I also have a 2008 fe450 that I just got a couple weeks ago. I'm running a synthetic 10/40 and haven't had any trouble with clutch plates sticking and starting (to my surprise) has been fairly easy. My Berg hates to find neutral too, but who cares about that when it's so fun to ride. I'm riding it at the Sandbox MX track and lovin it.
Colleen
I'm in Minnesota as well! And I also have a 2008 fe450 that I just got a couple weeks ago. I'm running a synthetic 10/40 and haven't had any trouble with clutch plates sticking and starting (to my surprise) has been fairly easy. My Berg hates to find neutral too, but who cares about that when it's so fun to ride. I'm riding it at the Sandbox MX track and lovin it.
Colleen
Joined Oct 2005
935 Posts | 21+
Texas
The clutch plates stick together a little bit when cold sometimes, and this causes the initial "jump" and stall. It really is normal. Bleeding the clutch is a good idea if there is air in it, but it won't stop this particular trait. If it bothers you, put the bike in gear before you start it and rock it back and forth. This usually is enough to break the oil tension between the plates and it won't stall that first time you put it in gear.
Edit: Sorry, CarzyTed already answered the post. I have to learn how to read the replies!
Edit: Sorry, CarzyTed already answered the post. I have to learn how to read the replies!
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
if the steel plates are warped it will do that
new oil helps a little but if the plates are warped you need new ones
i machined dimples into my last set they are lasting longer, judder got worse and the shreik is more pronounced but the plates dont get so hot with more oil in between them
if you want neutral every time you can uprate the detent arm spring and reprofile the shift star, pics in my gallery, not sure where that is ATM ?
new oil helps a little but if the plates are warped you need new ones
i machined dimples into my last set they are lasting longer, judder got worse and the shreik is more pronounced but the plates dont get so hot with more oil in between them
if you want neutral every time you can uprate the detent arm spring and reprofile the shift star, pics in my gallery, not sure where that is ATM ?
Same sticky clutch plates on my 2010 FE390. No issue when new with the factory oil. Nor after 1hr break in with Castrol Actevo 10w-40. But at the 4hr break in oil change, I put in Maxima Blend 10W-40, and immediately experienced the clutch plates not fully releasing until the bike is full warm. Bled the clutch - no change.
When cold, put the bike in 1st, pull the clutch in, and it takes good effort to move the bike around. I either need to change oil brands or possibly see if more break in helps.
When cold, put the bike in 1st, pull the clutch in, and it takes good effort to move the bike around. I either need to change oil brands or possibly see if more break in helps.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
10% moreys HD oil stabiliser added to the delo is even better on the clutch, if its just starting to go the moreys brings it back.
the motul300v liquid gold is the worst oil for clutches, makes them feel spongy and they slip when you don't want them to and grab more at the wrong time so plates and oil don't last as long. 300V in my bike goes to sh$%t at 3 hrs with a bit of clutch use. jap 450 clcuthes last longer with delo too.
if pics of bikes on the bottle, high price and propaganda works then FWIW belray thumper is also good for clutches.
the motul300v liquid gold is the worst oil for clutches, makes them feel spongy and they slip when you don't want them to and grab more at the wrong time so plates and oil don't last as long. 300V in my bike goes to sh$%t at 3 hrs with a bit of clutch use. jap 450 clcuthes last longer with delo too.
if pics of bikes on the bottle, high price and propaganda works then FWIW belray thumper is also good for clutches.
the same think happens to me and i went to my mechanic and he says to me that the plates are warped so i order from tuffy new ones
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