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Clutch slipping on my 570!

B

brandonB1

Joined Aug 2010
51 Posts | 0+
Parkdale, OR
Well, I did my homework and I'm still at a loss....

I have an '09 FE 570 with 104 hours on her. She has not been abused and has seen all the regular maintenance and oil changes at no more than 15 hours. Running Rotella in the white bottle.

I started noticing that the clutch was slipping a bit when I was passing a car on the pavement a month or so ago. No issues what so ever off road. A week or so ago I put the Supermoto wheels on and noticed that the clutch was slipping so bad I could barely get the front wheel off the ground coming out of a tight corner. It will also slip in 4th, 5th, or 6th when I jump on the throttle. And I really don't have to grab a fist full to make it slip. Half throttle will usually produce slippage if I'm even half way aggressive. :(

A few minutes ago I dug into the clutch. Everything look, smells, and measures out fine and dandy. Outer Clutch Facing Discs measure out at 2.75mm, and the inner is 3mm. Perfectly on spec. No sign of glazing, miss coloring, or damage what so ever. Springs are with-in spec (red pain on springs?).

So now what?

Next for me will be to switch oil. I'm going to jump ship on Rotella and thinking of going to the 76 4T stuff????

If that doesn't do it after a couple of oil changed, it might be time for stiffer springs???

Any thoughts, experiences, or slaps upside the head would be much appreciated!

Thanks. Brandon
 
It could be the Rotella. If its the low emissions formula it probably has friction modifiers. Delo 400 changed there forula a couple years ago, so I stopped running it for fear of clutch issues.
 
For God's sake, why would you tip Rotella into your bike? It's a diesel oil and entirely unsuitable for a petrol engined bike with a wet-plate clutch.

Almost certainly, your choice of oil is at the root of your clutch problems.

Use a fully synthetic bike oil of appropriate grade. In fact, why not use what is recommended by the manufacturer?

It'll probably take some time to remove the contamination (the friction modifiers) from the engine innards and clutch plates.

Greg
 
Note that both Rotella 5/40 and 15/40 oils have the official motorcycle stamp of approval for use with wet clutches.

I have used the 15/40 Rotella oil in several KTM RFS auto clutch bikes for many years with no problems. I have used Rotella 5/40 oil (at the recommendation of the engine builder) in my auto clutch '08 KTM HTR 350 XCF-W for 3 years with no problems.
 
Chas said:
Note that both Rotella 5/40 and 15/40 oils have the official motorcycle stamp of approval for use with wet clutches.

I have used the 15/40 Rotella oil in several KTM RFS auto clutch bikes for many years with no problems. I have used Rotella 5/40 oil (at the recommendation of the engine builder) in my auto clutch '08 KTM HTR 350 XCF-W for 3 years with no problems.
Click to expand...
i can't find any reference to motorcycle suitability on the Shell Rotella website:

http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/

Greg
 
GregUK said:
Chas said:
Note that both Rotella 5/40 and 15/40 oils have the official motorcycle stamp of approval for use with wet clutches.

I have used the 15/40 Rotella oil in several KTM RFS auto clutch bikes for many years with no problems. I have used Rotella 5/40 oil (at the recommendation of the engine builder) in my auto clutch '08 KTM HTR 350 XCF-W for 3 years with no problems.
Click to expand...
i can't find any reference to motorcycle suitability on the Shell Rotella website:

http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/

Greg
Click to expand...

?!

Both Rotella oils are stamped JASO DH-2 and JASO MA right on the bottle.

P.S It is also listed on the Shell website.
 
I'd de-glaze all plates,inner hub and pressure plate and re=bleed hydrolics and inspect movement before replacing the cover. Sometimes springs loose their resistance due to excessive heat but still measure a good free length. Good luck and let us know.
 
Big Booger said:
I'd de-glaze all plates,inner hub and pressure plate and re=bleed hydrolics and inspect movement before replacing the cover. Sometimes springs loose their resistance due to excessive heat but still measure a good free length. Good luck and let us know.
Click to expand...

How do you "de-glaze" the steels?

I "inspected movement" yesterday. It appears that during the initial millimeter or two of movement that one side of the clutch depresses before the other. So, one side starts to move for about two millimeters or so before the other side starts to move....?

New springs time?

One other question: Who makes stiffer springs? Barnett? The hydrolic clutch is so easy to pull anyway, seems like stiffer springs couldn't hurt???
 
Geglaze with a Scotch Brite disc or even medium grit emery cloth.

Note sure about the uneven engagement. It does not sound right. I suspect that is directly related to your problem.
I would not worry about stiffer springs. The OEM springs seem to work well for the rest of us.
 
The main reason I was thinking of stronger springs is for use on the road. There is a ridiculous amount of torque going through that clutch while riding aggressively with the Supermoto wheel on! :)
 
brandonB1 said:
The main reason I was thinking of stronger springs is for use on the road. There is a ridiculous amount of torque going through that clutch while riding aggressively with the Supermoto wheel on! :)
Click to expand...

Better the clutch to give a little than the transmission gears :wink:
 
Chas said:
Both Rotella oils are stamped JASO DH-2 and JASO MA right on the bottle.

P.S It is also listed on the Shell website.
Click to expand...
Fair enough but still don't understand why you'd use an oil designed for heavy diesel engines.

Greg
 
brandonB1 said:
The main reason I was thinking of stronger springs is for use on the road. There is a ridiculous amount of torque going through that clutch while riding aggressively with the Supermoto wheel on! :)
Click to expand...
That's why the clutch is multiple plate - each mating surface takes a 'share' of the torque being transmitted.

Greg
 
GregUK said:
Chas said:
Both Rotella oils are stamped JASO DH-2 and JASO MA right on the bottle.

P.S It is also listed on the Shell website.
Click to expand...
Fair enough but still don't understand why you'd use an oil designed for heavy diesel engines.

Greg
Click to expand...

Historically, 'diesel' oils, such as Delo 400 and Rotella have been used successfully and have been highly recommended at Husaberg.org for many years.
 
GregUK said:
brandonB1 said:
The main reason I was thinking of stronger springs is for use on the road. There is a ridiculous amount of torque going through that clutch while riding aggressively with the Supermoto wheel on! :)
Click to expand...
That's why the clutch is multiple plate - each mating surface takes a 'share' of the torque being transmitted.

Greg
Click to expand...

Right... I appreciate the help Greg. And I do understand the workings of the modern off road motorcycle clutch. I guess I might just have to try something new. Perhaps I'll pull my clutch cover and and give all my mating surfaces a pep talk. :scream: As of late, they're performance has been slipping a bit. They appear to not be working as a team to "share" the work load I keep giving them.

As far as the Rotella goes... Well, I was using it because many, many people have had great success with it. You obviously can't fathom why someone would...? Who knows, maybe you're right. I'll find out soon......
 
berger said:
It could be the Rotella. If its the low emissions formula it probably has friction modifiers. Delo 400 changed there formula a couple years ago, so I stopped running it for fear of clutch issues.
Click to expand...

I used to run Delo 400 with great success. I also used to change my oil every other ride. 2 reasons I stopped running the Delo was 1) The bikes got better and I became more comfortable changing the oil every 15-20 hrs. 2) They changed to a low emissions formula that someone suggested may not be suitable for wet clutchs.

If the oil has a JASO rating then you should be good to go.

Why diesel oil? If it's good enough to run in a motor running 20-1 compression and lube a turbo charger running at 100k rpm's while glowing red hot. It should be good enough for my Berg.
 
ive had the exact problem with mine and ive only run fully synthetic elf oil by total. i checked my clutch slave cyinder and it had cracked around the outside and the circlip ahd become dislodged. not sure if this caused the problem but after fixing that and chageing the oil it improved a fair bit but still sliping slightly so i have a rekluse on order
 
In response to your question in the SUMO section: My bike is still very new but I've not had any issues with the clutch slipping on the track or the street. I run 4T Motorex, full synthetic.

I'm sure that there is a simple solution. Hopefully you will find one soon.
 
I hope so too. I switched oil a few rides ago. Not really any better. I'll give it one more change with this oil, then move on to something else. I'm about to put a Revloc in, so I'd really like to get this sorted before I do that.... But who knows, maybe that will fix it? :wall:
 
brandonB1 said:
I hope so too. I switched oil a few rides ago. Not really any better.
Click to expand...

If the oil is your problem, the contamination from the friction modifiers is likely to have ingressed into the friction surfaces of the clutch plates. It could take a few oil changes to get it all out. You may do better simply fitting a new clutch pack along with fresh bike-specific oil.

Greg
 

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