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Clutch Slipping (2.7hrs riding) FE450

B

Beto

Joined Apr 2011
9 Posts | 0+
Hi
Could you assist in solving the slipping of my bikes clutch. It is newly purchased and I have noticed that when opening up the engine giving power but this does not transfer to the back wheel. This could only be a rsult of the clutch slipping.
Please assist as currently I connot enjoy my first proper riding experience on a 2011 Model HUSABERG FE 450

Regards
BETO FULGENZI
 
Guys this is a brend new bike !!!
I also have change the oiland filter as th manual say ( at 1 hr.) using MOTOREX 10-50
Also and the bigest problem I am in the Congo AFRICA here no body know nothing and it is not dealers
The bike was import from Dubay
because of all this thing I am recuested help from you peoples !!!
 
Beto said:
Guys this is a brend new bike !!!
I also have change the oiland filter as th manual say ( at 1 hr.) using MOTOREX 10-50
Also and the bigest problem I am in the Congo AFRICA here no body know nothing and it is not dealers
The bike was import from Dubay
because of all this thing I am recuested help from you peoples !!!
Click to expand...

Well if the clutch is slipping badly and all the correct fluids are being used there's not a whole lot you can do one last thing to check is re-bleed the Hydraulic clutch system maybe some help Most likely the cure would be a new clutch or if the disks are OK the possibly new springs
 
This shouldn't be too hard to fix because at 2.7 hours there can't be much wrong.

Motorex sell lots of different oils. You need to be 110% certain that the product you used was Motorex CROSS POWER 4T 10W/50. If you have put even an eggcupful of car oil in, the clutch is likely to slip.

Check that the clutch lever is not fouling on your handguards.

I can't see much point in bleeding the clutch - if it needs bleeding, then clutch dis-engagement will be your problem, not clutch slip.

Finally, lie the bike on it's side (or rsesting on something at a 45 degree angle) and have a look at the clutch to see if anything has come loose or you have a broken clutch spring.

Greg
 
Greg

Thanks for your time and all your advaice !!!
I have used the oil you mention . it is very bad thinking on a new bike having this type of trubels and be away from a any place where you can find a dicent mechanic
I will check the clutch this weekend and back to you guys

some where on this web site I have read you have also to wait for the clutch to run at list for three hrs. is this real ?

The liver is totaly free dont touch no where
I am very sad as I spend alot of money to get it here and my desition was to go for a new bike GRRRRRRRRRRRRR

any way thanks guys !!!!
 
I think the 3 hrs they are talking about is for soaking new clutch friction disks before install I never had an issue with mine (2010 fe450) my fuel pump and wiring harness on the other hand that's another story
 
GregUK said:
If you have put even an eggcupful of car oil in, the clutch is likely to slip.

Greg
Click to expand...

Got any proof on that? I ran my GSXR with Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40 oil (mineral based Heavy Duty oil) and the gearbox/clutch worked better than with mega dollar Motul 300V. Put same Delvac in my 570FS after 1hour break in. Finally found neutral and transmission is smooooooth.

I'll only use eggcupful of 300V along with Delvac to make it semi-synth blend. Now 16 hours without problems.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 person
Hi Guys,

the only thing is not rigth on the bike till now is the level of the oil
It is very much full . when I change the oil I have set the level very clouse to the top of the site glass
Can this will be a problem
Just to cleaer some more detals to all of you as you tray your best to help me , the cluctch is sppining but it is not mad you can ride the bike but still not giving you the all power or tent to pick up the front well :-(
I am on my way to drop some oil from the engein
When ever I get this fix I will let you guys know and what I did or what I find wrrong

Thanks alot for all your help guys and keep this site going on 8O
 
has it happend from day 1,ifso could be something that wasent installed properly or faulty part.
my mate has run cheap car oil in his 570 for the last year with out changing it,just tops it up. he rides alot & no clutch slip or any other probs.its not my style but do think people are to namby pamby (me included) when it comes to oil.
 
fakesy said:
my mate has run cheap car oil in his 570 for the last year with out changing it,just tops it up. he rides alot & no clutch slip or any other probs.its not my style but do think people are to namby pamby (me included) when it comes to oil.
Click to expand...

It's not a question of being namby pamby. Car oils contain friction modifiers which screw wet clutches. See: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

Why use car oil and take the risk when for a few pence more you can use the proper stuff?

Greg
 
Beto said:
Hi Guys,

the only thing is not rigth on the bike till now is the level of the oil
It is very much full . when I change the oil I have set the level very clouse to the top of the site glass
Can this will be a problem
Just to cleaer some more detals to all of you as you tray your best to help me , the cluctch is sppining but it is not mad you can ride the bike but still not giving you the all power or tent to pick up the front well :-(
I am on my way to drop some oil from the engein
When ever I get this fix I will let you guys know and what I did or what I find wrrong

Thanks alot for all your help guys and keep this site going on 8O
Click to expand...

on my '09 bike the oil only had to be halfway up the sight glass, no where near the top.

i know they did redesign the oil sight glass so maybe it would be a good idea to find out what the correct level is meant to be for your bike as almost at the top sound like too much oil too me.

Don't know whether that would cause the clutch to slip but worth getting it right.
 
GregUK said:
fakesy said:
my mate has run cheap car oil in his 570 for the last year with out changing it,just tops it up. he rides alot & no clutch slip or any other probs.its not my style but do think people are to namby pamby (me included) when it comes to oil.
Click to expand...

It's not a question of being namby pamby. Car oils contain friction modifiers which screw wet clutches. See: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

Why use car oil and take the risk when for a few pence more you can use the proper stuff?

Greg
Click to expand...

or use diesel oils, they are wet clutch compatible.

BTW Ive never heard of anyone screwing their clutch with the "wrong" or car oil, not saying it can't happen, just never heard of it.

the worst oil for my clutch life is motul 300v, its too slippery. 10-15 hrs with motul (changed every 4 hrs and the clutch steels were dead, with delo400 they last 40hrs+, delo400 + moreys + modified clutch steels now at 80hrs and still going with 60 of those hrs at 689cc 8O
 
GregUK said:
fakesy said:
my mate has run cheap car oil in his 570 for the last year with out changing it,just tops it up. he rides alot & no clutch slip or any other probs.its not my style but do think people are to namby pamby (me included) when it comes to oil.
Click to expand...

It's not a question of being namby pamby. Car oils contain friction modifiers which screw wet clutches. See: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

Why use car oil and take the risk when for a few pence more you can use the proper stuff?

Greg
Click to expand...

I've used car oils for years with no probs. Currently using a 'car' FS 15/50 in the 570 with no issues and I can get this for less than 1/2 the price of 'bike' oil. Not all car oils contain additives that will cause clutch slip. The oils marked 'Energy Conserving' are the ones to avoid. Personally I don't buy into all the marketing hype. IMO use of the correct grade and regular changes are the 1 & 2 of oil related maintenance.
 
Ive always stuck with the rotella T or T6 both of those meat the wet clutch requirement as per KTM/Husaberg I have been using in several bikes with 0 issues and the oil is clean when I change it
 
get a manual and pull the clutch apart and rebuild to manual spec maybe some thing aint right in there, it could be that the clutch plate are not closing all the way they should i.e leaving the clutch to slip. so just strip it down and measure all components to manual spec
 
spencergt66 said:
Ive always stuck with the rotella T or T6 both of those meat the wet clutch requirement as per KTM/Husaberg I have been using in several bikes with 0 issues and the oil is clean when I change it
Click to expand...

Rotella for the last 5 bikes, never had a clutch issue.
 

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