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Clutch replacement anyone try the Tusk kit?

Joined Dec 2009
274 Posts | 21+
Skidaway Island GA
Hi all it's time to replace my clutch on my 2010 FE450 as it seems to be dragging and I wanted some recommendations. Has anyone used the Tusk clutch kit with friction plates, steels, and spring with any success? It's a bargain at about $60 but am I better off going oem? I have over 200 hours on mine and have replaced the leaky slave cylinder with a British made Omron with better oring seal (in blue bling) but the clutch drags and it's getting harder to shift at a stop and find neutral anytime so it's time for service. I'd consider a Rekluse but they don't supply the friction plates and it's a bit spendy.

Thanks and have a great day! :)
 
I have never had anything but good things to say about Tusk and never any issues using in others machines, but I don't run in my personal machine so don't know what the feel is like. They offer a kit with the heavy springs. I also like Pro-X but again it is not a budget item such as tusk.
For 60 bux you cant go wrong and it will be a learning lesson for everyone if they hold and work well in the 450.
As I am sure you know, it is all in how you ride to how you wear parts. So if you are hard rider than I would never recommend anything but the highest quality.

I always use the theory, nothing good is cheap lol
 
I'm using the tusk friction plates in my fe570 with rekluse, they cleared up an issue I was having with the plates sticking together. So far so good and haven't noticed any slipping or burning of the friction plates. I'd say they are worth it and I'll continue to use them.

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Thanks Tom for your response :bow: Are you also using the steels, they're dimpled and I wonder if they'd drag over the stock ones?

As for other manufactured kits it appears that they're all the same, just different names for the same Tusk product but at a higher price. We used to own a machine shop and that's common practice. Guess I'll give the Tusk product a go!
 
The rekluse uses different steels then the OEM clutch so I'm using the rekluse steels so I don't know how they work versus OEM.

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The rekluse uses different steels then the OEM clutch so I'm using the rekluse steels so I don't know how they work versus OEM.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Only the Z start pro uses different steel plates. The exp can use oem.
 
I live down the street from the rekluse factory and rekluse them self's have worked on my bike, the core exp uses a different hub and thus different steel plates, the regular exp uses stock plates.

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Oh ok! I only seen exp and z start pro. From the pictures I assumed the core could use oem plates as the hub looks similar. I learned something!
 
I live down the street from the rekluse factory and rekluse them self's have worked on my bike, the core exp uses a different hub and thus different steel plates, the regular exp uses stock plates.

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As far as my understanding but I might be wrong ??????

Yes the Core EXP and the Regular EXP do use different plates but with that said they are not anything that can not be purchased aftermarket. The difference is the EXP uses standard plates and the Core EXP uses the DDS system plates (I would think these are the same as the factory DDS plates), so if you own a newer KTM HUSA HUSKY then the plates should fit. DDS is pretty much in all the newer Husa, KTM and Huskys.

Hope this helps ???? :)
 
Ok so I installed the Tusk clutch kit with springs on my FE450 and it's not the solution from what I can see. When in 1st gear and the clutch lever in the bike creeps ever so slightly and it's harder to downshift. The Tusk steels are dimpled which surprisingly so are the OEM but the friction area is larger. I'm really disappointed and not sure what to do. I know I installed things right as I just installed a Rekluse on my FE250 and had no problems.

So when it creeps in gear (clutch lever in) that means it's dragging...yes? Any suggestion would be appreciated as I have a 2 day dual sport coming up soon. Maybe the OEM parts ARE the way to go.
 
Did you try bleeding the clutch? I'd try a reverse bleed with a syringe at the slave to both replace the fluid and verify there is no air in the system.

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Yup I did first thing. I also replaced the stock slave cylinder with a british made Omron that has a better dual o ring seal system a couple months ago. Oh yeah real familiar with that drill.

I did find a video of someone else having the exact same problem using the Tusk kit and then ending up replacing it with the OEM clutch kit so that's probably my course of action. It's just too bad I had to waste time and money on a kit that doesn't measure up.
 

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