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clutch question and where to get gaskets?

P

Pujed

Joined Feb 2010
13 Posts | 0+
hey guys just hoping you can give me some insight on some problems with my 2000 fe 400

recently with the clutch lever all the way in and the bike in gear if i lift my feet off the ground the bike will slowly roll forward. I tried adjusting the lever and bleeding and topping of the fluid, i asked the dealer they said theres no adjustment. what do u guys think?

also anyone know where i can get a gasket set for the engine? having some problems with it so i think its time for an inspection....more on that later
 
You could have warped steels or there could be some grooves worn in the basket.
There is no adjustment as such apart from the lever position.

It would help if we new where you were but there are a few guys on here that can sort you out for the gaskets.
Your local Berg dealer should be able to also.
BTW you'll find that you'll need to get another mortgage for the genuine full gasket set.
IMHO it's smarter(and cheaper) to just get the one's you need. The O rings and seals are garden variety except the special oil seal and bearing on wp shaft that's only available OEM.
 
take the pressure plate off and try and put a shim behind the circlip that holds the clutch drum in. also, look for a shim in the end of the hole where the clutch pushrod pushes. if it isn't there you'll be able to see straight out/in through a 1mm pin hole in the centre.

regards

Taffy
 
thanks for the replys guys.

i live in the US...new york to be exact. went to the local dealership today and have them searching for a gasket kit for me. He said oem is like $200 but hes searching for an aftermarket one. the bike is doing all kinds of funky stuff now, so i think its time to take her apart and inspect everything.

the owner before me (ive had it a few months) put a mikuni tm38 carb on it and it wasnt jetted right and gas is now flowing into the oil, anyone know what the float height should be?

the bike has a slight oil leak between the head and the rocker arm cover is that a gasket or just sealant?

also i have engine noise when the engine is hot,it just got worse the other day im thinking timing chain? i see the where the tensioner is from the parts blow up but which way is tighten?

and last but not least the water pump weephole fix kit on this forum, will it work on my bike?


P.S. taffy we should be paying you it seems u know everything :cheers:
 
I don't think you'll get an aftermarket gasket kit as such.
Taffy can put together all that you'd need but he's on the other side of the globe.
Boss and motoxotica are a couple over your side and they might do a kit but like I said before just get the ones you need. For a clutch inspection you only need the sidecover and wp gasket.
Never hurts to do the wp seal while you've got the cover off.
Also doesn't hurt to have valve inspection gaskets on hand - 2 of them.
The rocker cover is sealant only.
If you're thinkin of splittin it right down then you'll need a head gasket too.
No adjustment on the chain I'm afraid - it's an auto adjuster. If it's got no clicks left then new chain.
IMHO the weep hole fix kit isn't necessary. It will go on your bike but If you're careful on assembly then it shouldn't weep.
The noise could be cam follower bearings. They are a big top end fail item especially if early type still in there.
Really depends on how far you're thinking of going when you say "take her apart" and how big the budget is.
Read the owners doc about the red alert items for that year bike.

Coastie
 
it's always best to say: "i'm doing the top end (or whatever) what do i need?"

regards

Taffy
 
i don't want to do business openly on the site. but if you're asking what to look for then that's easy. everything you see is going to be phuqed ok? ya dig buddy. :D :D

the rocker shafts will be worn real bad one or both sides. the tappet pads will be cupped. the valves will be loose in the guides, most of all your cam follower bearings sound to be gone and they'll be grooving up the inside of the rockers (and that's not a 70s 50s mix of music dude!) the cam auto decomp will be useless and the tip worn off, defo out the open bearings and replace with two in rubber seals. cam chain shagged is a given.

clutch wise: get a new bush. buy a new centre hub. don't argue.

everything in stock.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy - you paint such a grim picture - all doom and gloom. Don't scare him too much.

Pujed
If you just wanna do the top end only then the first thing you gotta do is get the rocker cover off and check it all out.
Do you know if the top ends been done before or first time?
 
thanks for the replys/info guys!

taffy ill pm u my email address and maybe u can send me what you think ill need and prices so i can see what im in for? also do you have the gaskets i will need too? if so u rock :cheers: and the auto decomp seems to work good i never manually do it when kicking

coastie- i dont think the top end has been done before it looks stock but there was 2 owners before me and the last guy put a new carb and exhaust....i know that much.

at this point im waiting to see when i can get gaskets dont want to take it all apart and have it sitting open for weeks. and my dads away on business and hes the brains of this operation im 21....never tore a engine apart yet :bounce3:
 
well did some inspecting today heres some pics.

I did notice it has been taken apart before there was blue and red sealant and u can see one of the rocker arms was heated at one point. Also is it normal from the factory to have silicone on the cam chain master link?

So being its obvious its been taken apart the problem im have is i dont know if the visible damage is old or recent :(

notice the gash on the cam chain sprocket?

Link to pics: http://s1025.photobucket.com/albums/y32 ... %20engine/

i know the quality isnt great its from my phone
 
well tried to get the engine out to continue inspecting and i cant get the spring arm bolt to move tried pressing it out with a clamp and hitting it with a punch......whats the trick?
 
not sure what a spring arm bolt is....

some silicon in a split link as a precaution. I prefer to fit it correctly and without damage. I think that split links don't come off but it's a great excuse afterwards to cover your poor workmanship by blaming the link.

regards

Taffy
 
they are total *******s to do.

shed loads of heat. tons of WD40. big hammer, huge drift, bike on it's side with the end of the shaft inside a socket and then hit it with all you've got.

or find a workshop where you can lay the bike through a hydraulic press like i did with a XR250 about 6 months ago. that cured it just like that....

should have seen the scene....4 grown men falling over as they man handled a bike sideways through the space under the press in an area of the workshop too small to swing a cat in!

regards

Taffy
 
ok got the bolt out this weekend only took me and my dad 4 hours :moon:

next question, how do i time the cam? just want to make sure i know before i rip it all apart, i read the owners doc but it went over my head, can someone simplify it for me?

also the clutch does it just slide off or do i need to remove the 6 or 8 bolts on the outside of it?
 
Hmmmmm. Its not April 1st so I shall assume you are serious.
Which part of the cam timing process do you not understand? All or some?
As for the clutch.... if it could just slip off then why doesn't it when in use?
yeah you need to dismantle clutch unit by undoing the bolts, remove the plates etc, take out the half washers that hold the basket in and remove the basket. hope this helps pujed.
 
ok figured out the cam question, and sorry for the stupid questions first time taking apart an engine just want to make sure i do the right thing.

got the head off today tooks some pics....

the piston
004.jpg


the valves
005.jpg

006.jpg


the cylinder
003.jpg





the piston and cylinder both looks good to me right?

the vavles are tuliped though arent they? :cuss:

anything else you guys see? if different pics will help let me know
 
you have to pull valves out to see if they are tuliping my friend. the damage is seen on the back face.

looks like a set of rings on the piston while you are there.

squish is perfect. trouble is that nobody but an expert can tell you when the big end is gone/going etc

regards

Taffy
 

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