checking and adjusting valves on 05 450 fe

Go to the download area and download the Hard Start Guide!
all info in there

Hello Bajar,

Yes I do my own valves, as do most of the Berg riders.

Careful of the breather hose, too tight may cut the hose with the clamp.

It seems as if the 04-06 Husabergs can go many more hours before they need valve adjustment. I check my 04 about every 20 hours or so and it hasn't needed any adjustment in the last 54 hours, The last time I had to make an adjustment was at 13.1 hours and only the intakes needed adjustment, they had loosened up 0.001".

Regards,

Joe

bajar said:

Thanks for your help Joe & Cwalkin
I've viewd the down loads & gathered alot of info on checking & adjusting
v/v's from this great website,wish I found it earlier!, I'am fairly new to this
& I'm tying to improve my maintenace skills I've only been riding for 2-3 years. anyway can you advise the easiest way to find TDC. I have read several ways ie by using socket to rotate flywheel, use kickstarter, put in 2nd or 3rd gear and push bike & put in top gear and rotate by hand but is difficult by your self.

rgds

bajar

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I put the bike on a stand, rear wheel off the ground, bike in 6th gear, spark plug out of the engine. Make sure to blow the dirt out from around the spark plug before removing the plug.

I turn the rear wheel by and to turn the engine over to top dead center in the compression sroke. I use a wooden skewer in the sprk plug hole to find TDC. The exaust valves will open about 0.035" and quicky close at about 35 degees before TDC on the compression stroke.

Once you are sure you are on the compression stroke you can jocky the rear wheel back and forth over TDC.

Does this answer your question?

Regards,

Joe

On page C1 of the 2005 Husabeg engine manual, available for download at Husaberg.se, it clearly shows how to line up the flywheel and stator, which gives you TDC. From there, all you have to do is make sure you are on the compression stroke. If you are on the wrong TDC, simply turn the engine over 360 degrees, and you are there. Confirm valves are CLOSED, adjust away. If you turn off the adjusting screw more than a quarter turn or so, you're not at TDC on the compression stroke. You can turn the engine over with the nut on the flywheel. It is really simple.

Sticking stuff down the sparkplug hole is asking for it, at least for me since Murphy's Law always applies for anything I touch. History is bound to repeat itself...the next post will be "I just broke a stick off in the top end, what will happen now?" Ask BigBob about it.

bajar said:

Thank's for the replies Joe & Johnf3

yes Joe it anwers my question thanks mate!

Johnf3 i here what your saying, i am a bit concerned about breaking something in the sparkplug hole, may be a blunt screw driver or metal rod? (might damage top of piston?) I will look at both ways & see whats best for a beginer like me.

i'll get a set of feeler gauges and make a tool like Joes, i think that will be easier to get 0.12mm then the 1/8 turn method

I will let you's know how i go in 15 engine hrs
THANKS again for the help gents, there's not many berg's brothers around here only orange & blue.

Regards,
bajar

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If any of your friends on orange bikes know how to check and adjust valves, invite then over to help with your 'Berg. KTM stole Husaberg's head design, so they are nearly identical to do, right down to how you find TDC with the flywheel/stator.

bajar said:

hi johnf3

none of my mates do there own valves and they think im mad for trying,
all the kato's are 2 banga's anyway.
I cannot find the 2005 manual from your first reply, is it on this site,
can only find 2001/2000.

cheers

bajar

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Go to Husaberg's official site, www.husaberg.se. Click on downloads, find the repair manual .pdf (not the owner's manual) for 2005. There is a nice clear picture on page C1 that shows how to find TDC using the stator and flywheel.

Hi there,
Valve clearance.
I done my own 04 550fe, I removed the tank and that was it, I cut down a allen key to make things easier so you dont have to remove anything else on the top, or come in contact with the radiator as much, only inspection covers removed. The 04 didnt seem to have any visable timing marks either, so I went the screwdriver on the piston trick as well.Turned the back wheel in higher gear until piston top dead center, I just try to rock the inlet and outlet arms with my fingers to confirm they both have clearance.Dont confuse the sideways movement on the rocker with the actual clearance itself.
I found with the feeler gauge , because of the tight bend in trying to get it under and on top of the valve, it was hard to get the right clearance and time consuming. I found it saved heaps of time, just undoing the lock nut and touching the inner screw down just till you can feel slight contact then undo it 1/4 -- 1/8 of a turn , nip the nut back up , careful not to move the inner screw thread, and that was it.
My personal experience was I always checked at the 20 hour interval but found because I didnt flog the engine and kept good oil, they rarely moved after first 2 checks.
I dont check them much now only every 6 months, or if they were producing a knock or tapping noise.
The same procedure was used when I did the clearances for a mates 05 exc 450, I didnt remove any of the radiators either.
Just a guess , the clearance allows for heat expantion in the components of the engine and also allows a touch of oil in to lube on top of the valve and maybe provide a cusioning or dampening effect so that everything doesnt punch itself to peices.

Clearances,
I dont actually use a touque spanner for this , as I have been spinning the spanners for a while and have a pretty good feel for it.
However you definatly dont want the nut coming off in the engine so double check with a mechanic if your unsure.
You can also set one of the clearances with a feeler then rock the arm and you will feel the tiny amount of clearance there and will be able to use that as a guide when setting the other 3.
Sometimes when guys come off the 2 strokes they also tend to be a bit concerned about the clearances for a while with thier new 4 stroker.

Hope this helps some......

Hey guys, too many of us have had disasterous results from not using a torque wrench on this bike. You can buy a good torque wrench for $25 to $50.

I would get 2 of them if I were you, a 1/4" or 3/8 " drive for the small stuff and a 1/2" for the large ones.

Regards,

Joe

Johnf3 said:

bajar said:

hi johnf3

none of my mates do there own valves and they think im mad for trying,
all the kato's are 2 banga's anyway.
I cannot find the 2005 manual from your first reply, is it on this site,
can only find 2001/2000.

cheers

bajar

Click to expand...

Go to Husaberg's official site, www.husaberg.se. Click on downloads, find the repair manual .pdf (not the owner's manual) for 2005. There is a nice clear picture on page C1 that shows how to find TDC using the stator and flywheel.

Click to expand...

Okay, this sounds like an easy way to get it just right, however, on my '04 the bolt used for the crank "lock" does not accept an allen wrench as shown in the shop manual (04-05), it is a 10 mm hex head with a concave hollowed-out center and it is buried too deep in the case to get a wrench around it (not enough space between the head and the wall of the hole) I have never pulled this bolt before so I am a bit miffed that it came from the factory like that. Any body have any ideas on how to get it out, besides drilling and using a bolt remover, so i can replace it with the correct bolt? I am thinking that it is not the correct bolt am most likey is just something they threw in there to plug the hole.

RE: Re: checking and adjusting valves on 05 450 fe

True, what Joe says. My advice on top is to get a small torque wrench that will be accurate for the smaller torquing. Never use a bigger torque wrench for the small stuff, because they are very inaccurate in their lower range. I know it too well.

For adjusting the valves, look at my set of homemade tools in my gallery.

RE: Re: checking and adjusting valves on 05 450 fe

Make sure the locknuts are tight. EOM