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check my valve clearance impossible?

E

ElSnorro

Joined Aug 2007
470 Posts | 13+
The Netherlands
I did a try to check and set my valve clearance today, but I just can't get my 0,1mm feeler (dont know the exact name for it) in properly?
I did not yet remove my radiator but i think that is neccesary to get my feeler in under my rocker arm?

Or is there a simple trick for setting the valve's to the right clearance?
And can I remove my radiator just by loosening 1 of the hoses so the coolant would drain out or should i remove a 'coolant leak screw' somewhere?

Thanks again!
 
letting the coolant out is quite 'clean' on a husey copmpared to many others. remove the hose that fits the water pump and direct the hose into a catch pan whilst REMEMBERING THAT WATER COMES UP AND OUT OF THE WATERPUMP. you have to catch both!

secondly, definately take the radiator off the first time you do this job as you will be "all fingers and thumbs!".

don't bother with doing the tappets by feeler gauge. infact it is WORSE to do this this way. use the 1/6th turn method. the pads become 'cupped' and maybe the valve tips a little 'domed' and so the feeler gauge goes through about as nicely as a scaffolder walking a maze! (with a plank of course!).

you will also want good tools to do it. i have a 'S' shaped #4 allen key from making a wardrobe, i took the centre from a chubby screwdriver and i have a stepped 10mm spanner. these are the three tools you need.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
letting the coolant out is quite 'clean' on a husey copmpared to many others. remove the hose that fits the water pump and direct the hose into a catch pan whilst REMEMBERING THAT WATER COMES UP AND OUT OF THE WATERPUMP. you have to catch both!

secondly, definately take the radiator off the first time you do this job as you will be "all fingers and thumbs!".

don't bother with doing the tappets by feeler gauge. infact it is WORSE to do this this way. use the 1/6th turn method. the pads become 'cupped' and maybe the valve tips a little 'domed' and so the feeler gauge goes through about as nicely as a scaffolder walking a maze! (with a plank of course!).

you will also want good tools to do it. i have a 'S' shaped #4 allen key from making a wardrobe, i took the centre from a chubby screwdriver and i have a stepped 10mm spanner. these are the three tools you need.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply.
I will remove my radiator tomorrow and put fresh cooland in after setting the valve's.
the 1/6'th turn method. What is it exactly (cant find it in the doc?)
I suppose it means turning the 'valve setting srew' (dont know the name) completely on the valve and then turn it 1/6th of a turn the way back? (this is 0,1mm clearance?)

I have good tools, my father lucily has garage box which he uses to repair bicycles etc.
That is now my property! :twisted:
 
you look at the screw head as you come to it and note the angle it is at compared to the front wheel which we will call 12 o' clock!

so the screw head can be at
10 to 4
quarter to three
10 past 8
5 past 7
6 o' clock

when you have finished you'll know whether they were tight or loose by their new position.

hold the scsrew still with one hand (left)
undo the locknut (right)
roll screwdriver head lightly clockwise till it gently pinches up.
work out the time (LOL)
go around anti-clockwise 2 numbers of your imaginary clockface
"fight" to hold screw from moving as you tighten the locknut. check screwhead is set to the new 'time'!!!!

done.

regards

Taffy
 
For the 1/6 turn method, you can visualise it easily enough because you have 6 flats on the lock nut. Watch where the slot on the adjuster screw aligns with the nut when just seated and unwind one flat of the nut, easy. To get the inspection cover off get 2 allen keys, at least one with a ball end, shorten the short end of one without so that you can get in and lossen/tighten the front bolt and cut the ball end off the other at about 25 mm in length. You can thien spin this in your fingers at an angle to get them in and out easily.

It is not normally necessary to remove the radiator, but I guess as Taffy says it might help when doing it the first time. With a clean motor, don't want grunge getting inside when the covers are off, and without removing the radiator you should be able to do the whole job in less than 15 mins.

Steve
 
I was going to mention here that you should be at TDC of the compression stroke, but I'm sure you know that, so I won't.
 
piggd said:
I was going to mention here that you should be at TDC of the compression stroke, but I'm sure you know that, so I won't.
Click to expand...

I know that it should be on TDC, i have checked by removing my spark plug and put a little screwdriver in the hole and feel if my piston is on top.
In the compression stroke all my valve's are closed so the rocker arms are all 'standing up' right?
 
i'm sorry but you should have used a pencil. this is where you are going wrong! arf! arf!

you mean you want the whole thing explained now?

sheesh!

regards

Taffy
 
As others have said the 1/6 turn method is best. If you have a new bike with no wear on the valve stem end or adjuster foot, you can use a feeler gauge to double check that the 1/6 turn was done right. Note that the valve stem end sits a hair below the spring cap. This means that a wide feeler gauge must deform (cup) to fit in. This cupping will give you an incorrect reading. The feeler gauge must be no wider then the adjuster foot. Also the foot swivels and can easily tilt down as you try to insert the feeler gauge. This will make it seem like there is no gap at all, so you have to be very careful when using a feeler gauge. When you add in the fact that a feeler gauge will not measure the increased clearance from wear, it is easy to see why the 1/6 turn method is popular.

If you have access to a welding torch, you can bend up a wrench to get enough offset to clear the rear vent spigot on the newer engines. I do not drain coolant or remove the rad. A piece of cardboard over the rad fins will prevent damage while you fiddle around making the adjustments.
 
TDC with a screwdriver??? could be worse...I used a plastic pointer, it snapped..so I had to take head off again to get the piece of plastic!!!
Remember TDC is not when piston reaches top. It is halfway between when it reaches top of stroke and when it starts to go back down again..But you knew that I assume! also a 4 stroke has 2 TDC's one is compression stroke other is exhaust/inlet stroke..so valves will be closing /opening! does sound like you got right one in earlier post.
Taffy knows what he is talking about. I just have loads of trouble making sense of it in typed words!!!1/6 method is winner...give it go and all will be revealed..it is a lot easier than it reads!!!
 
Scouser said:
TDC with a screwdriver??? could be worse...I used a plastic pointer, it snapped..so I had to take head off again to get the piece of plastic!!!
Remember TDC is not when piston reaches top. It is halfway between when it reaches top of stroke and when it starts to go back down again..But you knew that I assume! also a 4 stroke has 2 TDC's one is compression stroke other is exhaust/inlet stroke..so valves will be closing /opening! does sound like you got right one in earlier post.
Taffy knows what he is talking about. I just have loads of trouble making sense of it in typed words!!!1/6 method is winner...give it go and all will be revealed..it is a lot easier than it reads!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah Taffy is somtimes a little hard to understand when you are not from the UK.
But good advise though :)
 
ElSnorro said:
Yeah Taffy is somtimes a little hard to understand when you are not from the UK.
But good advise though :)
Click to expand...

dont worry we cant understand him half the time either
 
hello

i'm david's mummy and i've just signed in to say that (he still doesn't wash behind his ears!) i don't understand him either!

regards

Mrs P A Lloyd
 
Good thread. Makes complete sense to me.

It's worth mentioning that when you are at the right TDC (compresion stroke) its not too important to bang on 0 degrees at the crank. For setting valves it is important that the cam followers are on the bottom of the cam and this is true for anywhere near TDC on the compresion stroke.
You can get a good feel for the dwell of the cam by watching the valves close as you turn the crank toward TDC and then open again as you pass TDC.

When setting ignition timing (on the other hand) it is important to be more acurate with crank position and checking with a strobe is essential for complete accuracy and peace of mind.
 
I tried it again a couple of times today, but no succes (yet).
After setting the valve's it did not start any more? It tries to run, but just can't ( it sounds like it is getting too lillte amount of fuel, are my valve's to tight?)

My main question is:
If I turn my valve screw clockwise to the valve itself, should i stop and turn 1/6th back when I begin to feel i am hitting the valve or should I stop and turn 1/6th back when the screw can't go any further?
I suppose the first option? when the screw just hits the valve?

Thanks!
 
Correct, back the lock nut off so that it doesn't create confusion, rotate the screw until it just kisses the valve stem and then back off 1/6 turn.

It does seem that you've got them too tight.

Steve
 
Taffy said:
roll screwdriver head lightly clockwise till it gently pinches up.
regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

yes just as it touches!

here is any easy way to be gentle - just hold softly with a light grip.

regards

Taffy
 
You guy's are just great!
2 replies at 10pm :p
Thanks guys i'm gonna try tomorrow!
 

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