Chain too long on brand new 390?

Hi everyone,

I purchase a new 2012 FE390 around 1 month ago and I absolutely love it. I'm slowly making modification as I work out exactly what I want and one of the first things I have done is install ultra heavy duty michelin tubes.

I threw in the rear tube yesterday and when putting the rear wheel back on I ran through the chain tensioning procedure. At this point I have the chain adjusters screws fully extended on both sides and still find movement of around 15mm to 20mm in the chain, well beyond the recommended 8mm to 10mm stated in the manual. What's more, I've actually wound these OUT from where they were when delivered by the dealer, I did take a very close look at everything before removing the wheel just to make sure I put it all back correctly and I KNOW that the chain tensioners screws were NOT pressing up against the chain tensioners, there was a ~3mm gap from the screw to the tensioners.

Now maybe I'm being insanely naive here, but I would have assumed this is the sort of thing that the dealer would have checked prior to handing over the bike, I never even thought to check the chain tension on my first couple of rides as I simply trusted the dealer would have done the right thing.

I am contemplating installing a 14 tooth front sprocket which will probably solve the problem (currently has standard 13 tooth) but I may not do this for months and I want to sort this out in the mean time.

So what do you guys think, is it likely the bike was simply delivered with a chain that was too long and not correctly checked by the dealer? Could I have done something to screw up the chain tension? Should I remove a link or two in order to fit in with the recommended chain tension, or should I take it back to the dealer, explain the situation and ask them to fix it? Or lastly, is a 20mm movement no big deal and am I worrying over nothing?

Thanks very much,

G.

WoodsRooster said:

Are you aware that the axle spacers are reversable? There is a short stub and a long stub. Perhaps you have it with the short stub forward and just need to rotate the spacers 180 degrees which will push the wheel back.

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Hi WoodsRooster. Yep, I did notice they are reversible. I have the long stub forward so unfortunately it's not anything that simple, but thanks for the suggestion.

GregUK said:

Why not tell us the size of both of your sprockets and the length of your chain? It'd make it all together easier to give advice.

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Right you are!

13:52 with 118 links in the chain.

GregUK said:

116 links confirmed

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OK, I think I'll pull a link out then so I've got a bit of room for adjustments. Thanks very much for checking, much appreciated. Never shortened a chain before so it's a great excuse to buy some more tools!

robatk said:

All chains stretch, and adjustment is normal.
The factory chain should be a riveted chain (I think) and not have a joiner. Perhaps the dealer has the "on road" chain installed? The road gearing is higher than the off road and therefor the chain has to be longer.
What gearing do you have? I'm running 13/52 on a 450 and I really like it, have just changed from 14/52. I ride off road only and it suits my riding style (I don't need to do 160 + kmph on a trail, and the lower gearing really helps on steep hills both up and down).
Do your homework on changing your spockets, what is it you want from higher gearing? more top end speed? do you mainly road ride? I thought the 450 was bad on engine braking down hill, but I hear the 390 is worse.
If you are getting close to fully extended adjusters on the long block, then you may be able to take a link out. Though this may hurt you if you are going to change to the 14tooth sprocket.

Just my 2cents, and I'm by no means an expert.

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Hi robatk,

I only do off road riding, no on road at all. Only reason for a change is to see how it feels, I'm thinking of trying a few different sprocket combinations and see which one I like the most. When you say bad on engine breaking how do you mean? On all but the steepest hills I just pop the bike in 1st and roll down the hill, plenty of compression braking that's for sure!

robatk said:

In summary I'm all in favour of trying different combo's, and swapping front sprockets is the cheapest and easiest way of doing it. Just think about what you want: speed?, torque? tame it down? scary it up? etc

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The place I have the most problems is steep, rutted hill climbs, so I'm probably looking for more torque to just chug up without needing to peg it. At the moment I find myself occasionally stalling in second gear, and first is just a little too "peaky", the throttle response is VERY quick. I just installed an ignition map switch so I'm looking forward to playing with that on the weekend.