Chain repair kit question - 08/450

Best advice is to look after you chain and replace it before it breaks.
Check the manual, i think there is a measurement you can make to let you know that its ready for changing.

If you needs to carry a chain tool then something like this is what you need
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Motion-Pro-Cam-Ch ... ycle_Parts

Also carry a couple of spare split links, i belive 520 is the size needed for stock chains.

The 08/450 takes a 520 chain. The bike would originally have been supplied with a DID chain but could have any brand on it now. Look for the name on a rivet sideplate.

Joining links, either rivet or split links, are NOT universally interchangable. The pin diameter and length varies. For that reason it is essential to use a spare link that matches the chain you are using.

Greg

Mati

Chains are actually pretty reliable. Chain failures are caused by:

• Damage to or ill-fitting of the split-link circlip. When fitting, ensure that the circlip is not bent; that it's closed end faces the direction of chain travel and that it is fully seated in the circlip groves on both pins.[/*:m:3stpjdg8]
• Inadequate lubrication. Buy a proprietary brand of chain lube and use it regularly. The lube has to penetrate into the chain so that the pins are lubed along their length.[/*:m:3stpjdg8]
• If you're really unlucky, you might get a rock caught between the chain and sprocket. A spare split link probably won't do you much good.[/*:m:3stpjdg8]

If you're trail riding, physically remove dirt from the chain with a brush and/or a pressure washer. When the chain has dried, apply copious lube before you ride again.

Greg

Generally good advice, but there are a few things I'd add.

For the split link you need to know not only that it's a DID 520, but which one. There are several different types of 520, some with no 0-rings, some with o-rings, some with x-rings etc, and there's a different split link for each one. Like Greg said, the split links differ in width etc, as well as what sort of o/v/x rings they come with so you need the right one.

IIRC every few links on the chain there's normally one has the type marked on it and that often includes a suffix (e.g. "520V" or "520VT2") and if you have that it will tell you exactly which type of chain it is.

If there definitely aren't any rubber rings at all then you have a plain, non-o-ring chain and IMHO that's the only type I'd even consider going anywhere near with a pressure washer. The point of o/v/x-ring chains is that they have a sealing ring at each end of the pins which seals grease in around the pin and keeps dirt out, so no matter how wet or dirty the chain gets the rollers are always running internally on a clean, well lubricated surface. The chain still needs to be cleaned and lubed to protect the outside of it, but it will generally last much longer than a non-ring chain. Unless you pressure wash it - that will most likely just blow the grease out from behind the rings which will make the chain wear out far faster than it should, especially as it's hard to get any lube back in there afterwards past the o-rings and you'll probably have trapped water in there which won't help!

There are plenty of cans of chain cleaner liquid which are specified as safe for use on 0-ring chains, which is something to check for if you want to use a cleaner on o-ring chains as some cleaners are too aggressive and will degrade the rings (e.g. petrol!).

If you get an o-ring split link, it will come with a small packet of grease to put on the pins as you fit the link so they're not running dry, and there should also be a set of four o-rings to fit on the link (this makes it like the rest of the links with grease sealed in).

Get a light weight small chain breaker to carry with you from Ballards in Australia it is cheaper and lighter as than the motion pro one but motion pro is the better one to use at home. Have a series of links that is a full one joined to two open ones (in case one of your chain links splits). Have a spare master link, but drill the plate holes a little bigger to make it slide on easier (only a fraction bigger). Even better use the one of your old chain. If you just buy a new master link and stick it in your tool pack you will spend ages trying to press it on on the trail. Remember if you don't have these basic spare parts you could be stuck somewhere and no fence wire will never work no matter what you think.