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Carbie "quick shots"?

S

Scully

Joined Jul 2003
330 Posts | 0+
Nth Tasmania ( Australia )
I have done a check and altho brief I cant seem to find anything about these "quick shots"? They are the little adapter base's that bolt onto the bottom of the FCR carbie in place of the existing fuel pump? They are suppose to eliminate the "bog" from idle to aprox 1/2 throttle?? I never experienced this bogging with my 550 but I can notice it with my new 450? I was going to decrease the fuel squirt, but my dealer suggested that I raise the needle and try one of these devices. But,,,,,,,,,,fitting the Quickshot is $169 for starters,,,,,,,and it apparently allows 100% fuel to flow into the pump as compared to 80% of the original? but,,,,,,,,,this seems the opposite to what decreasing the squirt achieves?? Do I have the "bog" because of too little fuel or too much? I thought the FCR's get this because there is too MUCH fuel? Am I right?
What do you all think?
The bike is still in std spec's, except for me modifying the exhaust by removing the end cap and grinding away the extension. This seems to have helped give some more snap.
Thanks, Scully.
 
scully

that exhaust mod could have been part of the problem starting but - on wards and upwards as they say...

you have the abiltiy to stop the bog by raising the needle. this starts the taper of the needle at the same time as the slide opens which is how life should be anyway.

you need less duratrion of squirt. so instead of 3 seconds you want about 1 second and you want it as the slide starts to move = the beginning/straightaway/immediately.

the BK mod for the Mk2 carb and the Taff Mod for the Mk1 will do this for you. the rest you can do by getting the engine fully warm and then doing some snap wheelies. make and take a small fuel screw and try turning the screw plus or minus .5 turns to get rid of the bog. it will disappear!

check afterwards where the PS is from closed. it should be 1.5 turns plus or minus .5 turns.

if it is outside this area then you are OK but could do with a different PJ and must start the snap wheelie test all over again! all over again!

regards

Taffy
 
qshot

Thanks Taffff yeah I know how to do all that as I have done it before. The bog seemed worse before I did the exhaust mod. I did the mod after 3 rides to see if the bike changed much after it loosens up abit.Its not noisey tho but sounds more throaty and you can an after market tail piece now but was told they're very noisey and when I had the muffler apart I inserted a peice of pipe into the muffler and put the end cap back on and it was alot noisier than I have it now?
I can only notice the "bog" when climbing hills and changing direction its no problem other than that. Its annoying cas my 550 never had it at all but I modified the squirt later and you had to be really careful with the throttle so I changed it back to std.
Are you saying that you dont like my muffler mod Tafff?
Have you heard of these Quickshots?
Thanks,
 
RE: qshot

never heard of quickshots and i think you can get there without it.

you now have the info you need so off you go!

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: qshot

Taffy said:
never heard of quickshots and i think you can get there without it.

you now have the info you need so off you go!

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Boyesen Quick Shot:

QuickShot_1.jpg


I believe the consensus is that the "Quick Shot" device is a poor substitute for dialed in jetting. Most don't need a mo bigger squirt but think that more must somehow be better.
 
I have a 2006 FE450, and I am deep into experimenting with the fuel delivery. Check my post labeled $40 FCR Spruce Up, some pictures there of the differences in the accelerator pump diaphragm between what Husaberg uses, and what Honda uses. Someone will rake me over the coals for this, I'm sure, but here are my thoughts on why the Berg has a three second squirt AP. To get EPA and Green Sticker certified, bikes are put on a dynamometer and tested, usually at a steady throttle/RPM. Husaberg has a really lean needle, an OBDVT in mine (where does this needle lettering system come from?), that almost no jetting can overcome. The AP is there to mask the lean carb set-up, making the bikes meet EPA stds, and still seem somewhat OK to the rider. Screw the EPA, stick in a needle that will run with a .5-.75 sec squirt diaphragm so that you are running on jets/needle/fuel air screw, and the AP only works to cover the air coming in at the initial opening of the slide. My bike ran fine most of the time, but was way rich when honking on and off the throttle dodging between the trees, and lean when out in the open. I'm getting real close, it's just too cold, snows still too deep, to really report back on how what I have done works. I will in reasonable time add to my carb spruce-up thread, just how the setup I have opted to go with works.
 
Buzz:

Are you now using the optional closed course jetting? OBDVR needle I believe.
 
Hbutt, I am using Honda FCR needles. I have an NCVS in now, and an NCYQ to test if needed. I would like to have an OBDVR to try. So far, this NCVS is looking good, can't tell till I get on the trails or track.
 
I've managed to fix this issue on my KTM using the bladder from a CRF 450R. Its leaner and really works well. BTW, its only 20 bucks.
 
Buzz:

Upon delivery the dealer changed the jetting to closed course for me. Needle to OBDVR and a #40 pilot. The jetting is very good with no bog or hiccups anywhere. The Honda uses a FCR 41mm, I think, and the Berg a 39. So I am guessing that the Honda needles may be a bit rich for you.
 
?

Yeah Hbut thats the one!! And yeah buz I think you might be on the money with your thoughts!
I would have thought there would be more owners whom have used this device as it has won many mag votes as the "best 4stroke aid money can buy"?
 
Re: ?

Scully said:
Yeah Hbut thats the one!! And yeah buz I think you might be on the money with your thoughts!
I would have thought there would be more owners whom have used this device as it has won many mag votes as the "best 4stroke aid money can buy"?
Click to expand...

Perhaps it should have been voted " best 4stroke aid money can buy if you are easily parted from your hard earned dosh"

Plenty of tuning options for the pump shot/progression of the FCR fuel delivery in regard to sorting lean or rich bogs without resorting to spending $170 on a couple of dollars worth of alloy and CNC machine time-

I had a major bog problem on my 650 that was sorted with a 4x.7mm screw, a fibre washer and 1/2 hour of my time. My money stayed in the bank, ready to purchase crank bearings.
lol.

The major bonus of purchasing one of the brands of these diaphram covers is you may recieve a new sticker/decal for your toolbox :D
 
As far as the Quick Shot goes, I see no reason to buy one. Consider that the Honda diaphragm kit comes with a new diaphragm, machined AP cover, spring, rod, and two O rings, for $20. As far as I can tell, the Quick Shot gives a deeper well to give the diaphragm a greater stroke. This is more easily done by reducing the height of the metal pellet in the center of the diaphragm, which is exactly what the Husaberg diaphragm is, in comparison with the Honda diaphragm. There is also a Leak Jet in the float bowl, that controls the volumn, or size of the squirt, of the AP. This should be available from any dealer. I think that a 55 is stock. As to my present needle, I have an NCVS, 2.765mm dia. The OBDVT has a 2.775mm dia, The OBDVR has 2.755mm dia, and the NCYQ a 2.745mm dia. So actually, the needle I have in there now is right between the VT and VR. The OBDVR is probably where I will end up. An NCVR or NCYR would be roughly equivilent, + or - a clip position. It was interesting to see that the diaphragms were made by NGK.
 
?

Couldnt agree with you Aus, I HATE wasting money on my bike! The price of mufflers and exhausts comes to mind. You could fit a car with extractors etc and a shine and a tyre for the same price!
Buzz, I had a look at the video you mentioned; very interesting reading. And the needle lettering; you can find it here>> factorypro.com/tach/carbei and there is a Keihin FCR tuning manual Version 3.3 by Patrick Burns. Its really good reading!
Scully
 
Scully, thanks for the info. Good site! The standard needle lettering/numbering system seems to be infiltrated with companies making up their own system. The OBDVT and the NCVT are close. T means the same thing on both designations. The V of OBDVT is a length to the taper of 82.75mm. The V of NCVT is a length of 59.41mm. The D of OBDVT indicates a taper angle of 0degree45'. I cannot find what C of NCVT means. The four Japanese companies use the N--- system. Does anyone know where the code to decipher this system is available?
 
To make matters worse some of the Japanese FCR equiped bikes have 5 letter code needles :? Some of the KTM guys are using a OCEMM needle in the 525.

I wish someone knew why there is a difference in coding ? Dale?
 

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