This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cant start 650 berg

Joined Jul 2011
3 Posts | 0+
Tried almost everything spent over $1100 at shop. upgraded battery, iridium plug, rewired due to corosion, new fuel, hard to start at all times tried many techniques but still have to tow bike to get going, backfires little when decellerating, goes good otherwise when you can get it going. although now e-start is sticking at a point and wont turn til you stop and start again then sicks again? Kick start is ok sometimes has hard spot? Need help.
 
Try a bigger pilot jet what size do you have in it? Also check the clamps on inlet rubbers to carbie, mine broke and leaked had all the same symtoms was hard to spot too.
 
Could also be the auto decomp spring this snapped on mine ($5 part) but made it just about impossible to start with starter button.
 
Does it start easily when hooked up to a battery charger? If so, I second the spring. I suspect mine is broken, but can e start with a fresh high amp battery. I still have to briefly hit the button several times to get it to fire. Will open it up soon...
 
i start mine by pulling in the decomp lever slightly whilst using the elect starter, it take a few starts to work it out, my engines coming down now so i will inspect the decomp spring, i ran off the track and cartwheeled down a hill at speed so im doing it now while everything else is broken, big crash.
ORANGEBERG
 
suspect your ADC spring has become unwound. when you kick it you probably can feel a solid wall of compression at some point it is proof. with the ADC working this wouldn't happen.

you don't mention the year of your bike or your location although I gather from "$" that you'll be USA? over half the site are non-USA members....

regards

Taffy
 
well, retension would be the word I suppose. I open the spring out. and don't ask how much! :D :D

regards

Taffy
 
its neither strengthening or retensioning its increasing the spring rate or making the spring stiffer by reducing the number of coils.

it increases the stress in the wire and makes it work harder, strength of the spring wire remains the same, spring life is reduced as the stress is higher.

re tensioning is simply re applying a tensile stress like reinstalling an exhaust pipe spring

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14669

to make it stiffer I cut off some coils from the lower end and bent the coil out until it worked properly you can see the end makes it more preloaded than the oem and less turns means its stiffer.

if you wind more preload on the spring (like Taffy used to) it gets too small in diam and bottoms out on the shaft then the ends get deformed and eventually break it needs to be a stiffer spring not just preloaded more.

cutting coils off the end is easy the wire handles being bent just try not to have any sharp bends, wind the coil out straight untill you have what you want then snip off the end mine now has 13.25 coils total, the KTM spring has 14.5 coils and mine originally had about 15.5

pic below

download/file.php?id=3174
 
Same problem here. I just took off the rocker box and the ADC spring is functioning. The counterweight that opens the exhaust valves slightly seemed to rotate, although not much tension.
I found the exhaust valve clearance slightly loose at .15 mm. I adjusted to spec and put a fresh spark plug in and it's way better!
I usually run valves a bit loose, but that may defeat the ADC on my 650.
 
Update: after tightening the exhaust valve adjustment the bike has started quickly several times today. Also cranks much faster. Problem solved!
 
jlburgess said:
Update: after tightening the exhaust valve adjustment .....
i hope that you mean that you readjusted your valves for the proper clearance...

jlburgess said:
Problem solved!
but if you arent within valve spec you will soon have a new, bigger problem.

i think the problem is that as the decomp wears down, it alters the 'timing' of the release which i believe is more important than the 'amount' of release.

do you have a manual decomp also?
 
jlburgess said:
Same problem here. I just took off the rocker box and the ADC spring is functioning. The counterweight that opens the exhaust valves slightly seemed to rotate, although not much tension.
I found the exhaust valve clearance slightly loose at .15 mm. I adjusted to spec and put a fresh spark plug in and it's way better!
I usually run valves a bit loose, but that may defeat the ADC on my 650.

Tut, read this post again. The valves were loose and adjusted to spec.
 
Hi! I would also like to sign up for the "How to kickstart a Husaberg" class :)

So far the bike has been starting ok whit the "wussybutton"...
Tho, at beginning, the e-started sounded bit lazy, bit like:
thump... thump... thump...thumpTHUTHUTHUTHUTHUTHU!

So i adjusted the valve gap from the previous owners 0.15mm to bit loose 0.10mm (the pre.owner had same problem then i have, there is no way to find 0.12 scale)

Now the Bike starts whit the electric starter much more snappyer, more like: thumpthumpTHUTHUTHUTHUTHUTHU.... (hope you get the view)

But still, i have the strange feeling on my but, that some day i ride the bike faaaaaaaaaaaar away from home, just to find out that the battery is dead... And only way to home is via boot, ether by kickstarting it, or starting to humm "these boots are made for walking".

So, to the point, the technique sounds kinda simpe? Your supose to to find the top dead center and then kick the hell out of it, right ?
So... top dead center of what stroke ? The exhaust- / intake-stroke, or the compression-, combustion-stroke ?

For my head, it would "feel" logical to get the engine just at the beginning of the intake-stroke. So that when you give it a kick, the most of the kick's power would go to intake and compression.

But, if i have understanded right from all the "kickstarting a thumper" -tutorials, i should spin it around untill hitted by the wall of compression, then hit the compression release, and give it a kick.

Or am i just overthinking it ?

Also, it feels extreamly difficult trying to find the tdc's, or keeping the track of the strokes. Feels like its harder to "kickstart" pass the valvesprings then the actualy compression... :/
 
push the lever "gently" with your foot till you feel it "lock" under compression this is not TDC

let the kick lever go back to the top,

pull the manual decomp lever in

move the kick lever about 40mm, this is roughly TDC or a bit past it

let the kick lever go back to the top,

then kick it ... think about being fast or quick for maximum speed. if you think about trying harder or making more force the leg goes slower.

also can try increasing the idle speed and playing with the idle mixture.

when you have it working you can be my personal kick starter for the 700, need to bring good boots! :D
 
ya, what he said. it worked everytime on my '02 650 even before i modded the decomp
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions