Camshaft options

here

the hyperlink document has been regularly pushed forward on posts similar to yours asking a similar question. i hope this is to your satisfaction sir!

and would sir like to add anything to help others as well?

i can tell you that the '01' and '08' are mild cams and that the '53' is a far stronger cam all over. it is the same cam as the '55' but has 5 degrees difference timing wise.

dale gave me the timing figures but for the life of me they didn't work! if you purchase one of these cams i can offer you his figures. they work fine with zero tappet clearance but are meant to be done checking the timing at .040" (1mm metric) of lift.

in the end i had to turn the base gear that runs off the clutch gear: one tooth round, slot the camwheel and then turn the cam slightly. they're not a straight fit i promise!

definately worth it for the £20 paid for it used though! as far as other cams go well dale does two cams and prefers to do the work of fitting etc so you have to take that into account. an X1 and an X2.

given that you're from sweden, another option is the tornado cam and after much e-mailing i have checked that the G2 cam is the one to try although they make no gaurantees as they haven't checked it against the 400/450 husey. i've checked lift, overlap, timing and that's the one.

KTM cams have a 2mm wider shoulder for the camwheel than the otherwise identical husaberg on the '04+ models. it's possible that these fit earlier bergs but can't be sure as nobody here has tried it i believe. as i understand it you need to grind the shoulder against which the camwheel sits and that's the only difference. someone has put up some photos but do you think i can find them any longer?

i have info on the KTM cams if you want to take this further. the two cams are the 5521 and the 8/06 and i have figures for these. both are an improvement over the standard ktm cam. the 8/06 is the peakier cam.

my inlet valves were COMPLETELY shot after two seasons racing and i only just stripped the engine in time! they had 'tuliped'.

the profile of dale's cams and the tornado's saves the valve train from viscious and harmful valve train accel and decel. so you not only get better cams but save wear and tear also.

go to TT, go to KTM 400/450/525, go to legends, type "Taffy", click "1 year" and they gave me the info in a thread there!

also try '2004 camshafts' in the search here at UHE.

hope i've helped fella!

regards

Taffy

then what are you worried about? what do you need another camshaft for. the valve tuliping is due to continuous high revving which with the '01' is necessary because there is nothing low down. you have to rev it like a two-stroke to make it go!

like that the valves tuliped quickly. i don't envisage the same problem with the '53' cam.

forget any real differences in the '53' and the '55' cam. it's the same cam so you're only rocking the cam and 5d doesn't change anything. it possibly has more to do with block (as in cylinder block) height and the two different con rod lengths etc.

you worry too much i think fella!

Taffy

mikst said:

The problem is that I have something I would call spalling or beginning to spalling. So, if I need to replace the camshaft I want to know what to buy to get the right stuff. Why buy a Husaberg camshaft since this has only been running for approx 130 hours and mostly at low revs?

Click to expand...

Hi Mikst,
Over the years I have received much positive feedback regarding my X2 profile. Cost is now $300.00 exchange.

UHE member JoeUSA is a retired engineer whom is also a meticulous stickler for detail. Joe has tested both the X1 and X2 profiles. I am most certain if asked Joe would share his opinions with this forum.

For the record:
The X1 is not for the faint of heart and under certain conditions may prove less than desirable. (ie requires rpm to sustain longevity)

Dale

Taffy said:

KTM cams have a 2mm wider shoulder for the camwheel than the otherwise identical husaberg on the '04+ models. it's possible that these fit earlier bergs but can't be sure as nobody here has tried it i believe. as i understand it you need to grind the shoulder against which the camwheel sits and that's the only difference. someone has put up some photos but do you think i can find them any longer?

Click to expand...

The KTM cam gear shoulder is 2mm less(Photo reads -2mm). The berg cam shoulder is the same width as the old aluminum cam gear, while the KTM cam shoulder is the same width as the newer steel cam gear at the shoulder. The 2mm difference also corresponds to the Decompressor length and the placement of the cam gear side bearing. To make one work you would have to use a KTM decompressor(~$20), sleeve the water pump shaft to the Bearing ID(since the bearing needs to ride beyond the original bearing placement for proper bearing support in the Berg head), place a 2mm spacer between the bearing and decompressor, and cut extra amount of water pump shaft off. I have done all the measurements, but have not yet modified and tried it.

(Warning: for the adventurous types, make sure you check valve clearances. The KTM aftermarket cams tend to have large int. valve lifts to make up for the smaller 35mm valves.)

PowerFiend said:

Taffy said:

KTM cams have a 2mm wider shoulder for the camwheel than the otherwise identical husaberg on the '04+ models. it's possible that these fit earlier bergs but can't be sure as nobody here has tried it i believe. as i understand it you need to grind the shoulder against which the camwheel sits and that's the only difference. someone has put up some photos but do you think i can find them any longer?

Click to expand...

The KTM cam gear shoulder is 2mm less(Photo reads -2mm). The berg cam shoulder is the same width as the old aluminum cam gear, while the KTM cam shoulder is the same width as the newer steel cam gear at the shoulder. The 2mm difference also corresponds to the Decompressor length and the placement of the cam gear side bearing. To make one work you would have to use a KTM decompressor(~$20), sleeve the water pump shaft to the Bearing ID(since the bearing needs to ride beyond the original bearing placement for proper bearing support in the Berg head), place a 2mm spacer between the bearing and decompressor, and cut extra amount of water pump shaft off. I have done all the measurements, but have not yet modified and tried it.

(Warning: for the adventurous types, make sure you check valve clearances. The KTM aftermarket cams tend to have large int. valve lifts to make up for the smaller 35mm valves.)

Click to expand...

Hi Powerfiend,
I have used modifed pre 01 Husaberg camshafts (ie KTM) in post 2K engines with success. However, it is indeed a bit of a pain.
Dale

Dale,
I have Zero experience with the Pre-2001 motors. Do they have the same cam gear shoulder width as the Post-2000 motors and the same distance between the cam bearings?

Thanks.

PowerFiend said:

Dale,
I have Zero experience with the Pre-2001 motors. Do they have the same cam gear shoulder width as the Post-2000 motors and the same distance between the cam bearings?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Hi Powerfiend,
In addition to removing the water pump drive shaft one must properly space both the driven sprocket and drive side camshaft bearing.

Best Regards,
Dale

Generally speaking if u increase the camshaft opening lift / duration u must also increase the compression ratio :!:

If not then u will generally lose power and torque. :shock:

I have a GW G2 (little use) and G3 (no use) for sale.

£150 each.

Lloyd.

mikst said:

Hi,

One of the Husaberg dealers in Sweden told me if I wanted to use a 08 camshaft I also should increase the copmression.

Is it more peak power with a 53 than a 55?
Must be a reason why they use the 55 in the 501

Click to expand...

Mikst,

What are you actually looking to achieve with the change in camshaft? Or are you just looking for information for comparison?

For what it's worth, I had to really tone down my 2001 650 for off-road and trail riding - including go for a milder cam (53) and now LX2 in order to maintain at least some driveability (this is compared to the 55, 08 and LX1 camshafts). In full tuned trim the bike was just a complete animal off-road.

Cheers,
Simon

so you're saying that you timed your 53 and 55 cam? that you used one of them std and then changed it 5d to be the other?

i doubt you could tell 5d simon!

what's your back-to-back on all these cams?

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

so you're saying that you timed your 53 and 55 cam? that you used one of them std and then changed it 5d to be the other?

i doubt you could tell 5d simon!

what's your back-to-back on all these cams?

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

No, I had 2 different cams that I swapped out.

Hmmm, interesting, so now you're doubting what can and can't be perceived by others, yet you yourself have been singing the praises of swapping the Husaberg cams? :wink:

Cheers,
Simon

Simon

what i'm saying is that you can't tell a 53 from a 55 unless you swop them around in a day or so. because it's the SAME SOHcamshaft but 5d different and as a man who has played with many a cam and it's timing i know that you can't tell-and that was road racing where i believe there are less variables.

5d is 1mm at the od of a camwheel which coincides with this con rod length change and all the different bores and strokes that husaberg use.

the 53 cam has more lift, duration and overlap than the '01' and i tested them with no other changes whatsoever. it would have been done in a day but the timing wouldn't come right.

i can't tell 'rocked' power, i can't even tell 2bhp, but i can tell 3-4 bhp and a **** load more torque!

regards

Taffy

The 53 cam is a great low down / mid range cam. The power curve won't be linear though with this cam it will go up steeply and flatten off on the top, making the bike snappy off the bottom almost.

The LX2 cam is supposed to be a good enduro cam but I can't talk from experience.

Lloyd.

Taffy said:

Simon

what i'm saying is that you can't tell a 53 from a 55 unless you swop them around in a day or so. because it's the SAME SOHcamshaft but 5d different and as a man who has played with many a cam and it's timing i know that you can't tell-and that was road racing where i believe there are less variables.

5d is 1mm at the od of a camwheel which coincides with this con rod length change and all the different bores and strokes that husaberg use.

the 53 cam has more lift, duration and overlap than the '01' and i tested them with no other changes whatsoever. it would have been done in a day but the timing wouldn't come right.

i can't tell 'rocked' power, i can't even tell 2bhp, but i can tell 3-4 bhp and a **** load more torque!

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

Taffy,

There's no need to take it quite so seriously I'm winding you up FFS!

On tarmac, there really is no perceived difference in the 2 cams - on the dyno there is a perceptible difference albeit slight. So too is there a perceptible difference riding in marginal conditions (e.g. loose gravel) on my 650. For me the 53 felt better - and in my opinion, that's all there needs to be :wink:

Cheerio,
Simon

what i meant simon was that i had come from a mild '01' to the '53' cam and there is a huge difference. this i could feel.

i have changed the cam timing by 2-3 degrees on a RR and felt nothing (SOHC) whilst i did the same with my DOHC WR400 and 'Taff timed' it. the difference was clear.

however 5 degrees 'rocking the cam' on a SOHC and to feel the difference? well done mate and which was the better!

regards

Taffy