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Camchain / Valves / Timing

Joined Jan 2007
89 Posts | 0+
Ayrshire, SCOTLAND
Whilst my bike is partially stripped-down I plan to check the camchain tension, valve clearances and timing.
What order should this be done in?
1) Check camchain tension?
2) Set Valve clearances?
3) Check ignition timing?
Does it matter?
I don't think my camchain tensioner spring is strong enough because on a previous occasion I could easily push the tensioner in a few notches using light pressure.
I checked the tensioner pin and it's still got a few notches to go before it's fully extended.
Can I do the same again to ensure the camchain is tensioned properly?
Regarding ignition timing, should the method described in the manual give the same results in identifying if the timing marks are out in the same way as the 'Dead Stop' method?
Is the 'Dead Stop' method just more accurate or are there fundamental differences?
Am I missing anything?
Cheers.
 
the dead stop method is the only way to check for TDC precisely!

your 1-2-3 order is correct.

yes i would get a new spring as mine pushes very, very hard!

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: Camchain / Valves / Timing

Taffy said:
your 1-2-3 order is correct.


regards

Taffy

Why do you say that ? There is no significant connection between the three.What am I missing ?
 
RE: Re: RE: Camchain / Valves / Timing

yes there is nothing in it but you always check the ignition aftyer you've done the tappets so that the engine is running as sweet as possible. i and 2 or 2 and 1 matter not.

regards

Taffy
 
Cheers, Taffy.
I've been thinking the 'dead stop' thing over again and I think I understand it now.
This method will identify if the factory mark on the flywheel is indeed correct.
If not, you should mark the TDC on the flywheel using your measurements from the 'dead stop' method.
Line-up the mark on the stator with this new mark on the flywheel & timing should now be spot-on.
Is this correct?
Would it be suitable to use a long bolt with the same thread diameter & pitch as the spark plug to act as a stopper for the piston when trying the 'dead stop' method?
What diameter of protractor should I make up?
Cheers,
Ross
 
More timing questions!
I believed that the '99 and '00 FC 600 engines (kickstart only) were the same????
My RHS engine casing has the numbers 1123151 & 220059 stamped on them.
What year is this??
In the '99 workshop manual and handbook, it tells me to line up the left hand mark on the flywheel with the mark on the stator.
BUT
In the '00 owner's handbook, it tells me to line up the right hand mark on the flywheel with the mark on the stator.
AAAAARGGGGHH!
If I find the marks on the flywheel are out when checking TDC using the dead-stop method, which mark will I use to set the timing????
I am beginning to think I'd be quicker just moving the stator randomly left and right and noting if the bike runs better or worse and becomes any easier / harder to start!
If I have to scribe a new line on the flywheel to mark true TDC, would it be a good idea to mark a corresponding point on the engine casing so that I can easily set the engine to TDC in the future to set valve clearances etc??
The more I know, the less I understand!
 
The stator can be rotated a few degrees in the cover to adjust timing, so using these two marks is not the best method to find TDC. Dead stop method, with a pen, or anything that will not break in there (like a pencil, we had a horror story once), or scratch the surface of the piston, or even a dial indicator, which is much better. I always remove the stator cover and turn the flywheel by hand (you can use a T Handle if you want). Put your finger on the plug hole to make to make sure you are on the right stroke (air pushing out). To be 100% sure your timing is set right, as far as the chain and cam lobes go, remove the rocker and left side covers, align the marks on the gears and make sure the lobes are at 11 and 1. At that point you can make your mark on the flywheel. You'll propably use a gasket and will have to wait for the sealant to cure before riding, but you'll be sure you have it spot on. Hey, I am not a mechanic, I am clueless and I managed to do it.
 
the protractor wants to be the diameter of the flywheel. then bond it to cardboard, then cut out the middle so that you only have a 20mm wide 'ring' of paper/card. then blue tac it to the flywheel.

don't worry about a mark a=t the screw hole etc, fact is 20d in either direction and the ramp of the cam is nowhere near pushing the rocker arm yet!

dead stop is more accurate than dial indicator and also costs nothing in real hardware to make.

i'll send you up my little tool and protractor if you want?

regards

Taffy
 
Ross,
Once you are totally happy that your timing is the best/ how you want it...Mark the stator onto the casing with a scribe. I have marked my Crank gear so when it is at TDC I can align it up through my oil filler hole. So I do not need to remove the casing to confirm TDC. I was using a plastic rod in the spark plug hole. the thing snapped and I had to remove the head to get the bits out!
Any way I think you are clear about TDC, but just to clarify a point someone has posted on here. The piston will reach TDC the crank will rotate and the piston sits at TDC, then further crank rotation will then move the piston down. Mark the arrival at TDC then mark the departure from TDC. the midway between these 2 marks is the exact TDC. And mark this, you will know that this mark is true TDC
 
Dr_C said:
Because a dial indicator is not moving for at least 3 degrees at TDC.

You can use the dial indicator to find TDC in a similar way as the dead stop method. 1. .Find an clockwise position close to TDC, note the reading on the dial indicator, mark the position on the flywheel.
2. Find the same reading anticlockwise, mark on flywheel,
3. The TDC is in the middle between the marks.
 
Cheers for the info, everyone.
I think I've got all I need to go ahead and check TDC now.
Taffy, thanks for the offer, but I should be able to make the protractor and indicator without too much fuss.
I've got a laminator at work, so plan to laminate the protractor - NICE!
I'll let you guys know if all this makes the bike any easier to start!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Mc7lWONGHM
Thanks again,
Ross
 

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