The way the aluminum button is
fastened to the pusher shaft is a joke.
I started turning it down in the lathe
and it fell off.The shaft has a very narrow
flange and the button is just crimped past
the flange.I am making a .125 longer
button out of aluminum bronze.This is
one part I hope they have redesigned.
fastened to the pusher shaft is a joke.
I started turning it down in the lathe
and it fell off.The shaft has a very narrow
flange and the button is just crimped past
the flange.I am making a .125 longer
button out of aluminum bronze.This is
one part I hope they have redesigned.
Well Maybe aluminum bronze isn't
the hot setup.I set it up for a .003
press fit and the piece fell off the shaft
when I peened the edges like the stocker.
Back to aluminum I guess.
the hot setup.I set it up for a .003
press fit and the piece fell off the shaft
when I peened the edges like the stocker.
Back to aluminum I guess.
I had to answer myself,no one else was up.
I finished the tensioner.I made a two piece
end out of aluminum bronze.It presses onto
the shaft and the other halve presses into it.
Now it can't come off.Hopefully it lasts a while.
I don't want the next owner to have a problem
with this bike.
I finished the tensioner.I made a two piece
end out of aluminum bronze.It presses onto
the shaft and the other halve presses into it.
Now it can't come off.Hopefully it lasts a while.
I don't want the next owner to have a problem
with this bike.
Make sure that at full extension your new longer adjuster isn't pushing your cam chain right into your cases. My stock one at full extension will.
To check take the link out of the chain, let the adjuster go all the way out and then retension the chain(hold crank and rotate cam), then inspect case to chain clearences. This can be done with the side cover and rocker cover off. Typical area for first contact is the middle case webbing between where the cam chain guides are. There is a section that angles in at about a 45deg.
To check take the link out of the chain, let the adjuster go all the way out and then retension the chain(hold crank and rotate cam), then inspect case to chain clearences. This can be done with the side cover and rocker cover off. Typical area for first contact is the middle case webbing between where the cam chain guides are. There is a section that angles in at about a 45deg.
Joined Jul 2001
3K Posts | 1+
El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
Hi T-Jet-Tim,
Sorry for the delay in my reply as I simply figured this subject had been handled. I cut the crimped Aluminum button from the OEM tension unit, make an extension of 4130 and then Tig weld said extension to the tension plunger. As pointed out by Powerfiend you may need to clearance the cylinder and / or case cavity a bit.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Dale
Ps
Sorry to learn you are leaving us.
Sorry for the delay in my reply as I simply figured this subject had been handled. I cut the crimped Aluminum button from the OEM tension unit, make an extension of 4130 and then Tig weld said extension to the tension plunger. As pointed out by Powerfiend you may need to clearance the cylinder and / or case cavity a bit.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Dale
Ps
Sorry to learn you are leaving us.
I made a two piece end from aluminum
bronze.It presses together from both sides
so it cannot come off.Total length-1.810
The stocker was 1.683.From the look of the
flakes the bike will clearance itself.If the flakes
change to aluminum bronze the wear was
coming from the tensioner.Too bad there isn't
enough room for a roller.
Anyone want to purchase this and keep the
R&D up?
bronze.It presses together from both sides
so it cannot come off.Total length-1.810
The stocker was 1.683.From the look of the
flakes the bike will clearance itself.If the flakes
change to aluminum bronze the wear was
coming from the tensioner.Too bad there isn't
enough room for a roller.
Anyone want to purchase this and keep the
R&D up?
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