Cairns to Capeyork

bike tour- Cape York

Cape York is not so remote any more.
You can get stuff shipped up to Bamaga and I imagine other places quite quickly now days. I did a trip there 20 yr ago in a 4wd and had parts flown in.
Stuff like tyres, tubes and lubes, one would think the tour operator would carry in a support vehicle during the trip.
Make sure you start with fresh oil and filters, maybe carry extra air filters oiled and ready to go, they compact down and are light weight. If fuel injected ,maybe consider cleaning out the fuel system and filters there to, perhaps carry a spare filter for that also ( maybe cheap reassurance?)

Me personally , I would like to start with fresh wheel bearings, brake pads, tyres, check for movement in swing arm bearings and bushings, shock mounts, replace battery if over 5yr old and so forth. New chain and sprockets Basically anything that is easy to fix or inspect prior to the trip I would do.

Your main goal is to complete the trip in a maintenance free fashion and not have break downs, especially outlaying lots of money for the one off type of trip. Maybe keep details of bike shops in QLD , just in case you need parts sent up.
Check all nuts and bolts and a good look over the bike. Consider hours on engine and if there is anything that may be close to requiring maintenance with regards to the hours.

I imagine it could turn into 2500 km+ trip with tracks and deviations.

Hope that helps some.

Peter570 said:

Righto, next on the list is a fuel supply that will allow me do around 300k's, ive read some previous threads about using the under seat tank.is there any still around or is there an option out there like a safari tank?

Click to expand...

What is known as the underseat tanks were an option for the previous-generation bikes (actually, on the 70-degrees the tank is kind of under the seat anyway). What you're thinking of is probably the so-called subframe tank from 70-degree racing. You might be able to find one used.

Safari Tanks make or made two models for these bikes - The first is an "overlay" tank that sort of drapes over the main tank. These get good marks, and I've seen the convincing argument that handling is impacted less by the addon front tank compared to the subframe tank if one is only doing one of those. Safari Tanks also made a bolt-on side rear tank, "rally-style", in the mirror-of-muffler config.

If your subframe is good enough you can make it into a tank. Google and you will find. If you are unlucky the plastics are too thin in some places.

Sounds good!
I imagine you will catch up with the tour operator vehicle at least at the end of each day, if not during lunch,etc. You will be able to leave filters/oil and other essential stuff in the trailer or vehicle.

Check with the tour operator , get as much info off them as possible, they should be able to fill you in on what to take , gear and equipment wise also.

I know there are some soft fuel cells out on the market, 8,10 litre, etc. Also a good range of soft pannier type carriers that sit over the rear end if the extra tank doesn't work out as an option.

Good idea to go out ,leading up to the ride, and build a bit of bike fitness up, riding 8 hr a day on multiply days on the tour will catch up with you, especially if your fitness is anything like mine ,ha ha.. You will enjoy it more and hopefully stay up right!. I would say every second day on average you will change air filters depending on conditions and who you follow in the dust. Every 3 days may look at doing the oil ,again depends on conditions and how hard you push the engine I suppose and personal choice.

Fuel, again depends on how you ride, gearing, what your carrying, etc. I am unsure fuel mileage on a 570 , so wont comment there.

Cheers,

I can't find where but somewhere on this site I asked a guy that used the safari rear why he preferred it over the safari front. Reason was that he was driving in more sandy areas and liked to keep his front wheel lighter.
Another reason to go rear tank instead of front is the added capacity. Front is 8 L and rear is 10 L.

But seriously have a look at your subframe and see if it can be converted into a tank. I did it with mine and it was ok. I had trouble with weak material at the very top at the back (where the plastics are pushed through at the top) so it was sweating fuel when topped up. I didn't like that. The plastic is also very difficult to glue and impossible to melt together so I didn't trust that home made tank for longer adventures. I was lucky and got one of the last 70 degree subframe tanks. If not I would probably use my home made.
IF yours can't be converted it's not ruined as a frame so you have nothing to loose trying.

I bought my safari tanks in Sweden but they were shipped from Australia. Are you sure you wont get them cheaper down under where you live? They are after all made there.

When I get home I can take some pictures and share some tips from my home made tank.

Carboor Victoria

Home

This is my homemade sub tank. Dirty I know, but it has been on the shelf since I bought my 70 degree tank.

I installed a 90 degree 1/8" MxM NPT elbow at a low point. I was thinking of doing it on the lowest tab to the right but realized that I can never use that fuel anyway so I let whatever debris and gunk collect down there.
I also installed a nipple with 1/8" NPT threads up top. I regret that I didn't install a 90 degree nipple and I wont change it out as it hold fuel. Don't fix what's not broken...

The way I did it was to drill holes a bit smaller than the 1/8" threads. Then I heated up the plastic a bit with a heat gun. I did it until the edge got a bit rounded off but the plastic was still quite rigid. Then I screwed in my elbow and nipple and let the plastic cool off. I also put some glue around the elbow as you can see (white gunk), but that didn't stick to the fat plastic so that was unnecessary. It will hold anyway. I then used a short fuel hose and a quick connection with hose clamps.
As I had the safari tanks I hooked it in to their hook-up point, but if you don't I guess you have to install a nipple at the bottom of the fuel pump housing to connect to. It's tricky to get the fuel hose routing good around the shock and it's not much space to work with, but it's possible.





My tanks weak point were at the very back up top. I never managed to seal them 100% so when the tank was full it was sweating out fuel. Not much but it was constantly wet until the level went down. The material was very thin and I tried to mold it using a soldering pen. Too much and the plastic turns grainy and is burned... I also tried different plastic paddings and what not with no success. This plastic is quite special. When they mold the tanks they throw in a free radical that connects all plastic molecules into one big chain. That's why the tanks are so durable. You could say the tank are one big molecule. So when you crash and bump it it will slowly go back to it's true form as that's the way the molecule was made. It's very good, until you try to fix it with glue or heat. Then it will not cooperate...
I did however manage to seal the two places where the metal inserts are! I very carefully smeared the plastics around the metal and managed to seal both!! But that was fairly easy due to much more material and less surface.


Before you install nipples and what not fill it up with some fuel and see where it leaks. Try to fix those leaks first. If you're not happy with the result plug the holes and use it as a normal frame. If you are happy you can start to convert it.

Hey Jon, really appreciate the effort of sharing your inovation. Been looking high and liw for a 70 degree tank. Don't reckon I need or could afford the safari at this stage stage so will have to have a crack at this, unless I were to trip over a genuine 70 degree job if you happen to know of one lying around somewhere