Bought a 2010 FE450, few issues.

I would think a ktm loop should do for the side stand.
I have a 30 inch inseam and have one inch out of the suspension and then shave the seat. 2.5 is a big chunk to lose.

Part number for the rubber is: 50303018000 (just google that. ton of suppliers)

If you are putting weight on it camping and such then look at Pro Moto billet replacement.

2004 FE450 I also have a 30" inseam I had the bike lowered 1 1/4" I bought a tall seat and shaved the front out .I sit in the crotch for single track and sit back and the comfy section for logging roads Gives me the best of both worlds

Photo attached


04 Husaberg FE450 - DualSportBC.com Photo Gallery

I have the exact same bike and had Dale EO do the suspension for me. He lowered it 34mm prox and it was THE BEST THING I did for the bike. I'm 5' 8" but light weight and LOVE how the suspension and height really works for me and not against me. It was the best thing I did to the bike and I've had it for 4 years and 200+ hours.

I gotta say that losing a bit of ground clearance to make the suspension work for you is well worth it and I've never had a problem bottoming out. Ever. But I use that same suspension to pop over 3 ft logs and do the MX track with the right settings of course. I've learned that suspension is an important part of good bike setup.

Oh and I did try the X bushing and what a piece of crap, sorry but an eccentric and then having to shave the shock boss to make it fit is just plain stupid. But yes I'll admit I was going for the cheap fix. Just my thoughts FWIW.

I have the seat concepts seat and it's awesome! I'll check on my bike whether I left bushing in (it's been so long) Knowing me I probably turned it so it doesn't affect anything.

random thoughts -

One thing about low seats - 'Bergs have the pegs high up, so a low seat can scrunch your knees up more than it gets your feet to the ground I do have kinda sensitive knees though so it may not matter to everyone. This is why c33b's take is really interesting imo

Before you lower the suspension, you can maybe play around by adjusting the fork height and rear preload. Just to get a feel for things - it's not the same as changing things internally and will handle differently and may bottom out wheel-against-chassis you'd get going, but over level ground it may illustrate things. Just make sure to lower both ends approx the same or handling will change quite a lot

Should go without saying, but avoid simply compressing the rear shock and lowering the trips on the forks. I see that "solution" to lowering the bike all too often and the results can be disasterous.

FWIW,

Get rid of the X bushing............... buy a new stock or replacement bushing and get it right.

Once you get the suspension in the sweet spot even small adjustments to the suspension are quite noticeable.

Ride height/rider sag is the critical baseline before messing about with other settings.

Set the fork tubes in the center, set the sag per your tuners recommendation and go ride the bike and get used to it. Resist the temptation to fiddle with clickers and such until you get some hours on it and get used to the new set up.

Hope this helps!

Listen to Dale...he's the best And riding it a lot is always the best advice before radical changes that are expensive to reverse. IMHO

FWIW

I agree messing with the suspension can be a disaster looking for a place to happen.

I however disagree about the x bushing. Taking the small amount off the shock and swing arm does not compromise anything if done correctly (Pretty much cleaning up the casting only), The amount is very minimal. I find this allot better than reworking a shock and adding spacers, The bushing will not alter anything other than seat height and you still get full performance out of your shock, The amount of change in metrics will not be unsafe in any way,. Reworking and adding spacers alters the shock allot, The shock is not designed for this by way of engineering and by altering the shock in this way can give problems. You loose oil volume and shocks require oil for heat reduction. WP shocks are very sensitive to change. At high speeds this can be a problem, heavy applications such as motocross can make for disaster. It is also very costly if someone makes a mistake and does not know the shock well enough ( I understand DaleEO is quite good at this so he might be a good option) The x bushing is a quick way but with PDS systems it is all you really have for cheap simple quick and safe dropping.

Seat comfort is important to some, with this being said seat comfort should not be a important factor unless the bike is cruising down logging roads. Where seat height is involved is usually during single track and tight enduro riding and the general rule is to stand and stay away from getting comfy on the seat lol. Mine is shaved almost to nothing as I have a 32 inseam and like to plant firmly when required. I do not notice it at all as most of the time I am not on it much. After a six hour ride I am usually so sore that anything to sit on bringing me home is a bonus HaHa.

I agree so much not to mess with anything and ride, ride, ride. Set everything back to stock and work slowly and safely from there. Have someone who knows about setting sag help you get it right and most of all have fun Most bikes out of the box work quite well if not screwed with. Most can usually adapt to the bike after putting the hours in.

I'm 5 ' 8 " as well. FWIW relocating the shock top mount 9mm further up is not difficult and gets you about 30 mm lower without loosing any travel. A few of us have done this. I run a guts high seat.

it was I that first recommended the X-bushing for the 2009-2012 series as a serious handling improveent but one I used it in conjunction with a harder rear spring and for this I'd deem it necassary. PITA to do but a great handling change once I'd got the heavier spring fitted in.

I fetted a grease nipple (zerk) and found it to be fine if somewhat poor at lubricating itself!

regards

Taffy

Blueline said:

Thanks guys for all the replies. We left the x bushing in and lowered the bike 1 1/2" by adding spacers inside of the forks and rear shock. Had the bike out last week. It feels absolutely amazing. I'm still on my toes but actually feel good on the bike so I'm going to leave her as is. Thanks for all the advice!

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I am glad that it is working for you. I like the bushing as one does not have to muck with the internals. I have had no problems with mine and have found no change with anything other than height. It notes that it is a improvement to handling but I somehow doubt this as the factory bushing is much superior design. I am not familiar with what Taffy noted and adding a heavier spring, but I would never place a heavier spring unless I gained weight and required it for sag issues.

Have a great time on your new Husa