Boiling gas – Overheating – Weep hole 70 degree motors 2010

Re: Boiling gas – Overheating – Weep hole 70 degree motors 2

UPSguy said:

I was concerned as you said in an earlier post that you needed to keep the water in the jacket over 180 but i'm hardly ever seeing that in normal riding according to my TT gauge measuring temp as it exits the motor.

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Everyone has an opinion, The 180 degree thing was told to me by an engine builder many years ago and it makes sense. I have seen bikes cold seize riding in the winter when it is really cold, when riding fast crossing a valley, but, that is extreme.

Re: Boiling gas – Overheating – Weep hole 70 degree motors 2

Thanks for all that great info Dale. Makes me want to go mod my air box right now

To Ruger - the NAPA part number for the 95/90 C fan switch (meant for a BMW 325i car) is ATM 1435033.
To my sensibilities, this switch is "perfect". It engages sooner and bumps the temp down when the going gets tough, but the fan is not on all the time.

Re: Boiling gas – Overheating – Weep hole 70 degree motors 2

Much obliged, Duken.

Get a thermo fan with adjustable cut in temp

Hey guys I've had massive issues with overheating and boiling coolant. Bike would not idle properly,stall and pop and fart when trying to restart after stalling. Put a fan on recently with adjust cut in temp. 95C didn't work. 90 was better but still had issues. Went for a ride in real snotty stuff set at 85 today and was near perfect but ran rough a coupla times when really struggling on a couple of hillclimbs. A few more degrees lower and I reckon its problem solved. Fan was a bitch to fit tho as digital display was hitting the fuel tank. Had to drill out mount holes so fan sat lower and grind a bit of metal and plastic off the corner of digital display bracket. Spent countless hours googling fuel pump and filter issues but this seems to have fixed it. Very happy

Hi Jbeez,

Sorry to hear of your boil over woes..............

Did you read back through this thread and check your bike for some of the conditions that were mentioned?

One thing that jumps out at me right away is have you tried a new radiator cap or had yours tested?

The running rough part is not good. And the popping and such on trying to restart as well. What octane fuel are you running? 91 octane pump gas is more than sufficient for these bikes. And use of higher octane will make them run less than optimum.

What elevation are you at?

If you have not already, you might try pulling the radiators off and cleaning them as I mentioned earlier in the thread.

And lastly, with the radiator cap off, can you see the coolant flow start when the motor warms up? If the coolant flow is present as viewed through the cap hole during cold start up you very well could have a problem with your thermostat, as in it is stuck in one position.

Hope this helps,

Dale