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Bogs and dies in 1st when taking off

Joined Aug 2018
10 Posts | 0+
Watsonville, ca
Hello all, I am a relative noob to dirt bikes. I purchased a 2004 FE550 last August. I have done a few things to it but nothing drastic. 2 weeks ago I went to Death Valley with friends. We rode a couple days and on the final day I started having trouble with my bike cutting out in first gear. It is kinda like its in too high of a gear- it sorta bogs and then just stops.
-It seemed at first like a clutch issue, I thought there was some thing not disengaging in the clutch but when I hold the clutch lever in no bog or problem in first (I realized this after rebuilding and bleeding the master cylinder).
-I realized after all that that it was boging a bit in the first 1/4 turn of the throttle even in neutral. I could get going if I really revved the bike but going slow in first would kill the bike.
-I have torn apart and reinstalled the carb 4 times, cleaned in the sonic cleaner, checked the jets, put the slide in backwards (fixed), "adjusted the float" which was a BIG mistake because I did it the way I do my kids CRF80 which turned out to be a disaster.
-The throttle position sensor has a broken wire so I have unplugged it since reading many posts that this is not critical to have on a carburated bike.

Finally got the bike to start again this morning. I STILL have the bogging issue in first gear.

I'm supposed to be going with the kids and girlfriend to Ocatillo Wells next weekend. The only guy that used to work on 'bergs in my area retired recently and every shop around here is super busy with spring fever bikes people are getting going for the nice weather. If Dad's gonna fix this its gonna have to be on my own.

Anyone known on the central coast of California that knows how to work on these please have them contact me. I'm near Santa Cruz.

Thanks
 
Since the only thing you noticed was actually broken was the TPS sensor, was it broken before or after the bogging?
Id still fix that.

Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk
 
two things.

first, valve clearances. get these done, even a KTM dealer should do these with his eyes closed.

second, you need to ride the bike and adjust the fuel screw underneath the carb. the seasons have changed and what was OK is now wrong perhaps. it should need a larger PJ at christmas than in the summer. so I'm scratching my head to which way it should go but whatever, you need an extended PS underneath, it needs a spring and a washer next then an O ring. you should be able to turn this either in OR out to get the bog to disappear?

did the pump jet stop working?

always reverse blow a carb. blow against your chin so you know what is happening. block off the exits you don't want the air to come out of.

to check the fuel valve, blow down a good length of tube and go from horizontal and start to to turn the carb USD, blow and as it blocks your blowing, freeze!! the prudction mould line in the black float should be parallel to the float bowl join interface.

cheers

Taffy
 
The only Dealer that I know closest to you is in Vacaville MotoXotica 1(707)446-4282 hope this helps
 
Thanks guys. I bought the bike from MotoXotica so I know the fellow there. They are 2.5 hours away though but doable. I will call them today.
 
Well, I took the bike the MotoXotica today. The guys were great there but were unable to correct the bog when starting to move in first gear.

Idle and throttle sound good in neutral but when in gear, there is a bog to the point of stopping the motor.

They upped the jet to 147 (I think) and replaced an old looking spark plug along with repairing the TPS sensor with a used one.

One strange thing they found, the needle has a notch for the circlip much lower than the stock one, anyone know what that is about?

Finally, its my understanding that the idle - 1/4 throttle has its own jet. Could the circuit associated with that have a blockage? Which jet and where does it go?

Thanks
 
Chris, i'm not sure whether to be sore at this post above or not. it's pathetic mate? you don't know what you're talking about, they didn't know what they were doing, the facts aren't clear and at the end of the day they have shanged the TPS yet not cleaned and rebuilt the carb proffesionally knowing what the insides should look like?

I mean WTF! there isn't a 147 jet made let alone in your carb. even if the needle did have a clip machined into it lower than "normal" then what is the code of the needle?

was the needle brass, chrome or copper coloured?

very annoying.

Taffy
 
So it was running fine on the ride, then all of a sudden on the last day started bogging and stalling?

Might be a stab in the dark, but check coil and CDI.
 
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So it was running fine on the ride, then all of a sudden on the last day started bogging and stalling?

Might be a stab in the dark, but check coil and CDI.
I agree here, to what i understand it only bogs when the engine starts to be under load? Still seems to me that the fuel/airmixture might be off, cdi/coil connection problems.
Is it squirting gas as you turn thottle?
Clutch not engaging properly/slipping ?
Need more and better details and google your way to how a carb really works, theres tons of articles and posts you can find info on.

Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk
 
There is TOO MUCH info on carbs and how they work. Taffy is right, a correct and thorough cleaning is what is needed first. I will attempt to put the jets back to the configuration they were when I started. Changing jets in this case may be simply addressing the symptoms and not the problem. For the bike to suddenly change so drastically something broke or clogged.

Some folks refer to different jets by different names, this is not helpful to people like me trying to get a handle on things.

If cleaning and returning to the original configuration does not help, I'll try to return it to stock configuration.

Finally, I will look at issues with ignition. My cheap inline spark light thing looked like the color was orange- I can't find info on the internet confirming this is a problem or not, plus it was my weak kick producing the orange light. Bike seems fine other than under load in first gear so I was thinking more about carb issue than electrical.

My owners manual shows stock settings for my FCR-41 as:

main jet: 182
Jet needle: OBDVT (OBDVR)
idle jet 38 (40)
main air jet: 200
idle air jet: 100
Needle position: 5th from top
Starting Jet 85
Mixture screw 1.5 turns
carb ID number: 4125B

Does this sound correct?
 
well it sounds like the original jetting yes but a 182MJ is ridiculously rich.

go back to how it was, check the slide and plate are the right way up. get an extended pilot screw and adjust that.

it really is simple!

Taffy
 
Taffy!

Taffy- I was able to get in touch with the original owner of the bike. He said it was your jetting kit installed in the bike (which ran great up until it suddenly changed.
I found my notes from the tear down and cleaning:
idle jet 40
start jet 85? (its hard to see the stamp exactly)
needle jet 165 (now changed to 172)
idle-air jet 45
main air jet 155
The needle is brass it looks like but I don't have a size from it.

If this sounds like your kit for a FE550 then I need to know what setting I need for the clip on the needle. My hope, is to clean it again tonight and restore to your kit settings.

Sound rational?
 
go back to the 165MJ.
fit a 40PJ.
clip 8.
PS to suit.

I know deep down it was mine. you didn't even notice that you had 9 clip positions!

if it ran fine before then it can run fine again!

all that can suddenly happen is that the slide plate cracked and broke off or it took in a piece of sand etc and blocked off one of the air routes in.

Taffy
 
Bike seems fine other than under load in first gear so I was thinking more about carb issue than electrical


That’s usually what coils do. Faulty Coils will start fine, run fine and then start breaking down under load and will seem almost like a fuel problem. Fooled many a mechanic.

Also check the vent hoses on the carb.
 
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Hey there, when I bought my beaten and abused 2003 fe450e, it would kick start ok (well as ok as those beasts can be kicked), but after warming up, as soon as I gave it throttle, it would stall out pulling away. The only way to pull away was to throttle it up high and pop the clutch.

The problem = accelerator pump (rubber diaphragm) = in the carburetor! It was all cracked and leaking. The way the pump works, it gives the bike an extra squirt of gas when first rolling on the throttle as there is not enough air flow to carry the regular volume of gas through (from the vids I reviewed). I ordered the part very cheap from my KTM shop. Since I have the carb coming off, I decided to order new jets and needle and bowl gasket for ***** and giggles (all very cheap). Striped carb as per the vids on the tube, lots of carb cleaner. That fixed the problem, and I did very easy Keihin FRC O ring modification as well while I was in there (vids on youtube).

Hope this helps. And don't fear taking the carb off and opening it up, the vids on youtube for FRC Keihin are very well done.
 
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